Breaking News | Paulo Melim Andersson out at Chloé

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In fashion’s latest revolving designer door saga (we’ve already seen this play out at Vionnet, Ungaro, Nina Ricci, etc.), Chloé has removed Paulo Melim Andersson as Creative Director. Andersson stepped into the role after Phoebe Philo left the Parisian fashion house two years ago. He has been replaced by Hannah MacGibbon who previously worked under Philo.

Melim Andersson’s ouster should come as no surprise to fashion industry insiders, many of whom have been whispering about significant drops in retail sales and wholesale orders ever since Andersson unveiled his first Chloé collection, which was  a dramatic departure from the floaty feminine styles that propelled the brand back onto the fashion radar.

Are we going back to the girly Chloé girl then? Maybe, but then again, the girly thing is quickly becoming passé as designers move towards a more long, silhouette, often influenced by masculine tailoring.  Now where will the brand go?

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12 comments

  1. May I just say, the Chloé campaign this season is among the worst. It looks like they’re selling to aging housewives in Malibu, not young urban things. Why not picture a bunch of retirees doing yoga on the beach?

    Anjo from Stanford, CA, United States
  2. I was wondering the exact same thing. I always wondered who Chloe’s client was. It was too sheer/floaty/short for women who earn enough to buy 3000€ daywear dresses. And so easy for Top Shop/H&M to knock off for clients who liked the look, but not the price. I think they’d benefit more from a marketing study. But that’s just me.

  3. @Anjo: Completely agree with you on that advertising campaign. We considered putting up some of those images, but stuck with the new campaign photos for Chloé’s new perfume instead.

  4. I liked the campaign! It’s not the best, but not the worst and the slight clumsiness of it suits the brand’s image, if you ask me. I’m a Chloé retailer and I think a lot of buyers and customers were scared off by the PVC etc in Andersson’s debut collection, but there are still a lot of pieces in the more “traditional” Chloe’ vein being produced. I think a big part of their problem is the success of the second line, See by Chloé. A lot of Chloé fans are buying this and then accessorising it from the main collection.

    Caricouture from Dublin, County Dublin, Ireland
  5. I liked the campaign! It’s not the best, but not the worst and the slight clumsiness of it suits the brand’s image, if you ask me. I’m a Chloé retailer and I think a lot of buyers and customers were scared off by the PVC etc in Andersson’s debut collection, but there are still a lot of pieces in the more “traditional” Chloe’ vein being produced. I think a big part of their problem is the success of the second line, See by Chloé. A lot of Chloé fans are buying this and then accessorising it from the main collection.

    Caricouture from Dublin, County Dublin, Ireland
  6. How funny! I think the current Chloe ad campaign is unmatched. Paulo Melim Andersson has taken the brand to new heights, moving away from the more obvious trend-led styles of both Philo and, particularly her famed predecessor, McCartney. Right on cue, in fact, ahead of the game, Melim Andersson creates more timeless pieces for women in search of quality and longevity rather than fashion statments or logos. Seven years at Marni show in his unostentatious, refined and feminine collections for Chloe. The simple elegance of his pieces mean that they won’t date: in four years time they will be equally desirable, perhaps accessorised in a different way, but covetable non-the-less. Perhaps this is the key to success of niche, quirky labels rather than that of commercial giants, and as Chloe stands to open it’s next store alongside Barney’s on the Vegas Strip, perhaps the subtlety of the departing designer’s signature style is sadly no match for commercial profit.

  7. @Hatty Stevens: Maybe you should toddle over to Cathy Horyn’s blog and read some of the things commenters are saying about Andersson over there… I’m not arguing that he was a bad designer per se, but his pieces certainly weren’t selling.

    Anjo from Stanford, CA, United States
  8. Anjo – I didn’t realize you were a fellow Chloé retailer too. The pieces do sell in a multi-brand context but perhaps not to the traditional Chloé client. That may well be causing problems for Chloé flagship stores, quite a few of which are franchises.

    Caricouture from Galway, Galway, Ireland
  9. @Caricouture- I’m not a retailer, sorry if I gave an incorrect impression, but I follow the industry press pretty closely and definitely read the comments on OTR by retailers who had seen their sales falling off. The franchise owners are in a tight spot- it can’t be pleasant to be let down by those on whom you depend.

    Anjo from Stanford, CA, United States
  10. Anjo – WWD reported in their coverage of Andersson’s exit that Chloé sales figures are up 9%: http://www.wwd.com/search/article/123298?query=chloe I also read and posted on the comments on OTR and I think that Chloé’s own monobrand boutiques are probably suffering most of all because people go in there, or choose not to, based on a certain expectation. Multi-brand boutiques have a better chance of converting customers to the new Chloé. And if you look at Chloe’s store network, Monte Carlo and Marbella are not the sort of places with avant garde fashion taste!

    Caricouture from Dublin, County Dublin, Ireland
  11. Paulo Melim Andersson has been dispatched from the Chloe house!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry so has my enthusiasm for Chloe…..Are you serious his collections were are beyond gorgeous absolute awesome beautiful.The house loosing requisition – perhaps also has to do with other issues: the economy problems at the moment, the financial crisis and so on…..Giving Paulo the boot was a wrong move definitive….Because I am sorry the Chloe S/S 2009 collection would anyone at all were something like this…. I thought he was great! Looking at the clips on ‘Style’ his collections were quoted a ‘Chloe collection’. Does anyone know what his next move will be? which house he goes for or his own thing maybe….. Would I be a superrich Girl would I have bought out all his pieces, Paulo you will be misssssssssed. Seriously what a shame!

    tigerlily from Lörrach, Baden-Württemberg, Germany