News & Analysis | BoF Exclusive

BoF Exclusive | The New Creative Establishment 2010 — The 50 Most Influential Creative Forces Working in Fashion Today

By Imran Amed, Editor

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23. STEFANO TONCHI | Editor-in-Chief of W

Stefano Tonchi by Alex Salinas | Source: INDUSTRIE

The media hoo-ha that met Stefano Tonchi’s move to W in the latter part of 2010 demonstrated two things: (a) that editors in chief of fashion titles really do enjoy mainstream celebrity status these days; and (b) that the combination of the magazine and Tonchi is an irresistibly powerful package.

Which is why, to whispers of ‘the new Anna Wintour!’, a gaggle of cameras and microphones shadowed his every move at the September shows. During his revolutionary spell at The New York Times he launched a batch of new titles, including the highly regarded T magazine in 2004, as well as its award-winning online companion site. Hopes are high that he can bring the same revitalising energy to W.

Further reading: The Independent
Web: wmagazine.com
Twitter: @wmag

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24. Nicholas Kirkwood | nicholaskirkwood.com

25. M/M Paris | mmparis.com, facebook.com/mmparis, @mmparisdotcom

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26. JOERG KOCH | Editor-in-Chief of 032c

Joerg Koch by Thomas Lohr | Source: INDUSTRIE

At a time in which everyone is questioning the relevance of print publishing, 032c doesn’t seem to be suffering, largely because it actually has something to say. With unparalleled watershed and watercooler features like ‘Who is Steven Miesel?’ (an exclusive interview with Miesel featuring a 16-page foldout archive of all his Vogue Italia covers spanning 1988 to 2008) or ‘Hip, Hop, You Don’t Stop’ (a detailed portrait of the legendary German publisher Gerhard Stiedl), 032c interviews all the people you’ve ever wanted to know about, only before you’ve even realised it. The quality and intellectual rigour of its features never underestimates the intelligence of its readership – where else would you find ‘A Structural Analysis of Vogue Paris’? — and visually the magazine is equally daring, championing innovative young photographers such as Danko Steiner and Daniel Sannwald. And, with 032c’s archive of back issues now available to read online, a comprehensive interactive source of wisdom, the originality and scope of Koch’s editorial approach is out there for all to witness.

Further reading: T Magazine
Web: 032c.com
Facebook: facebook.com/032c
Twitter: @032c

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27. Rodarte: Kate & Laura Mulleavy | rodarte.net, @rodartenyc

28. Olivier Rizzo & Willy Vanderperre | intrepidlondon.com, managementartists.com

29. Pascal Dangin | boxstudios.com

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30. PETER PHILLIPS | Creative Director of Chanel Make-Up

Peter Philips by Willy Vanderperre | Source: INDUSTRIE

The Antwerp graphic designer turned experimental make-up artist has been head of Chanel’s cosmetics division for three years now and already he’s had a string of hits on the make-up counter. His Trompe l’Oeil temporary tattoos were the perfect fusion of his propensity for dark, youth culture references in his early days and Chanel’s status at the summit of maquillage de luxe. And then of course there are those nail varnishes

Further reading: The Independent
Web: Chanel.com

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40 comments

  1. I can’t agree with any creative fashion list that doesn’t have Grace Coddington on it… Nor can I agree with one that lists Stefano Tonchi over Alber Ebaz…

  2. This is unbearably silly.

    St.Valentine from San Francisco, CA, United States

  3. yes silly, just like fashion bloggers giving each other awards. who needs your list? do you consider yourselves to be a fashion authority?

    bastien from Paris, Île-de-France, France

  4. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    Andres from London, London, United Kingdom

  5. “The emphasis is on the word ‘new’ as there are obviously some very important longtime names who continue to wield great influence who are not on the list” Eh? All these names are as old as the hills?!!

  6. A creative list put together by an advertising agency? BoF – I think you should run a poll on your site and let the public vote instead.

    Johnny L from United Kingdom

  7. This is one persons opinion and the list is extremely well thought out and put together. All you haters need to chill it and stop sucking on an old sour cows teet. The milk is better from the carton.

    I think this is great and I’m really excited for the new issue of Industrie.

  8. where’s anna wintour? and KATE LANPHEAR????? puh-lease. ONE NOTE WONDER. tired…

    ktd from New York, NY, United States

  9. and alexander wang over raf simons? you should create a list called “top 50 people whose collections are influenced by other designers work” and there, my friend, you would find Alexander Wang.

    ktd from New York, NY, United States

  10. I’m a massive fan of this website. Its brilliant. This story is utterly ridiculous though.

    How on earth can a “new” establishment include people like Joe McKenna, Mrs Prada, Tom Ford, Steven Meisel, and Terry Richardson. Don’t get me wrong, these are incredible creatives but to call them, in anyway, “new” is ludicrous. Surely this is the ultimate sycophantic list compiled by an magazine that serves as a front for a advertising agency, that obviously wants to work with the best people in the industry.

    Would love to hear your take on this BOF.

    Just putting my two cents in. Love everything else about your site.

    Michael from London, London, United Kingdom

  11. What an awful list.

    Clarisse from Croissy-beaubourg, Île-de-France, France

  13. Ha ha this “list” has no credibility whatsoever! They seem to be biting off more than they can chew…

    And what a contradiction on the “newness”.

    Gemma B from Yeovil, Somerset, United Kingdom

  14. Have to agree with all the negative comments. Mert & Marcus #1? Meisel at 21? etc, etc, the “new” creative establishment? plenty of people here who have been around for ever, and quite a few of the best new creative talents missing.

    There are great people on this list so it’s not all bad, and everyone’s entitled to their opinion but it could have been so much better if they had been more bold and objective in their choices…. it’s just not very credible as it is.

    meh from Brooklyn, NY, United States

  15. I find the list fairly accurate. There are a few people I feel are missing. One in particular is Steve Jobs of Apple who has helped redefine how ecommerce and fashion content is consumed via Iphone and Ipad. Almost every major magazine and online store has developed an app (or mobile site) to reach millions through this medium. He should definitely be noted in this list….

  16. The old establishment would have been Helmut Newton and Cocco Chanel so this is definitely new

    Emma from London, London, United Kingdom

  17. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    Charlie Gup from Belper, Derbyshire, United Kingdom

  18. I do enjoy reading your point of view on the site. However, I have to speak up (and this is the first time I’ve ever written a comment on a blog!). Your list strikes me as arbitrary. It reads more like a fashion fan’s ‘like omg FAVES!’ than it does like a serious analysis of the current fashion terrain. One, the article lacks a ‘writerly’ hand. I don’t have one myself, but then I don’t claim to be an expert on fashion matters. And secondly, the analysis seems to be plucked from other popular fashion sites. I don’t mean to appear catty but this post screams lack of information. Forget Business of Fashion, what about, The Blogginess of Fashion?

    tana from Montreal, QC, Canada

  19. Thanks to everyone for your comments. We had a feeling the list would elicit quite the response, but never expected the overwhelming amount of interest generated, nor especially the strong negative reactions voiced here. It is always helpful to know what our readership thinks and this will be reflected in our editorial choices going forward. I particularly like the idea of polling our community. We might just take that on board once the dust settles a little.

    For clarity and since several commenters have asked, the editorial and ranking was not created by BoF, but by INDUSTRIE magazine. We thought it would be of interest to our community so agreed to publish an excerpt from the magazine. We thank INDUSTRIE for making a contribution to the site and for their efforts.

    I take many of your comments on board about the list and we will be more scrutinising before publishing such rankings in the future.

    Imran Amed, Editor from London, London, United Kingdom (post author)

  20. I appreciate the BoF for posting this. This is after all a new coming magazine’s POV. Maybe this is a cry to a much needed objective criteria for these assessments? everyone seems to have a different understanding of what the package “new influential creative forces today” entails. Shame INDUSTRIE doesn’t seem to know what its audience is looking for. A collection of impressive resumes is not enough.

    J from Oakville, ON, Canada

  21. Thanks Imran for your response. Industry is a magazine I won’t be picking up anytime soon. Best of luck to them in their mission to become the bible of outsiders who wish they were insiders.

    St.Valentine from Orangevale, CA, United States

  22. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    David Royce from Belper, Derbyshire, United Kingdom

  23. I think Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson are two arrogant Swedes. Superimposing or dictating what is an intelligent read. To me, Industrie appears very forceful not organic and its simply a magazine filled with yes, very talented people. But not every single person wants to read people who have great talent. We’re are those who are simple and meek?

    Mike from Revesby, New South Wales, Australia

  24. I hope my comment wasn’t negative, just an observation and I really like Industrie mag. Plus BoF did ask for our feedback. Also, Emma, the list is about the ‘creative forces working today and Helmut and Coco are both dead!

  25. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    dust from Antwerp, 01, Belgium

  26. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    nogaga from Orpington, Kent, United Kingdom

  27. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    david from Antwerp, 01, Belgium

  28. is this list just the opinion of 2 guys? if so, that is ridiculous, at least they could have created categories and say listed the 5 most interesting, influential people in each field with no particular ranking, photography, styling, make-up, journalism, etc. but this is just trite.

    doodie from Orpington, Kent, United Kingdom

  29. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    katy from Antwerp, 01, Belgium

  30. i think bof, you have a responsibility to pass on & inform INDUSRTRIE of every single comment here.

    doodie from Orpington, Kent, United Kingdom

  31. People should have a tiny more respect when they put a list together like this.
    If it had a more informal tone and would just mention the people that were more relevant 2010, I would be more respectful about it.
    But the whole tone makes it sound like a joke.

    Why on earth is an Advertising Agency (the people behind Industry magazine) creating this list? I am surprised they didn’t put themselves at the top. Maybe next year??

    I guess INDUSTRY magazine is as relevant as an Argos Catalog… or an In-Store Magazine at MATALAN…

    I would suggest next time to spend the money and effort into creating something more creative and subtle, other than an arrogant Industry Catalog.

    Craig from London, London, United Kingdom

  32. I do not consider this silly at all. When does coining a list equal viewing yourself as a fashion authority?
    Rather, for some fashion outsider with a little interest in fashion, this kind of list is a very good starting point. Now everyone–model, designer, editor, or just people with some interest–has a blog or something, it’s really hard to find the best and the most creative thing, and I can’t invest that much time. This list is a guide to who can I look into first.
    Though I do agree leaving out Grace Coddington is a serious mistake.

    Tianyuan Deng from Chicago, IL, United States

  33. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    katy from Antwerp, 01, Belgium

  34. hello! is this necessary? Looks like an attempt to lure advertisers / contributors..How is this exclusive preview?? Industrie is a waste of time, wasting paper basically

    Kakak from Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

  35. While I think the high percentage of negative comments on this post probably speaks for itself…

    Come on! BoF, no disrespect, but I think the community here deserves to know that in all honesty, you pulled the guys at Industrie a favor by posting this preview – not because you CHOSE to post it for its originality or greatness (speaking of LACK of editorial integrity and old school values…). Anyone who’s a part of the fashion industry in Europe knows for one, that you post these guys’ stuff “as a favor” all the time because… they’re your friends.

    And yeah, not only does BoF need to pass this info on to Industrie and inform them of their insolence and inadequacies in editorial, but inform YOURSELVES – you have too big a following and a reputation to expect to get away with this type of pay-for-play style journalism. Really disgraceful and sad.

    jonathan hall from New York, NY, United States

  36. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    David from London, London, United Kingdom

  37. Comment removed for violation of community norms.

    Sara Stevens from London, London, United Kingdom

  38. Thank you again for all your comments. We are very grateful for all the feedback we have received on the INDUSTRIE ranking and will take all of your comments under advisement.

    However, we have been extremely disappointed to discover that several of the commenters on both sides of the debate about this list have been creating multiple comments under different names and email addresses from the same IP address, simply to bolster their own arguments. Many of these comments have also been absuive or attacking in nature.

    This is not consistent with the norms of our community and these comments have now been removed. In the future, if you would like your comments to remain part of the conversation on BoF, please feel free to comment as frequently as you like, and as honestly as you like, but refrain from abusing the privilege of commenting by under different names to bolster your own argument. Please keep your comments clean and constructive.

    To prevent this kind of behaviour going forward, we will also be requiring people to log in order to comment and provide full transparency and accountability for the comments on BoF, in line with the norms of the BoF community.

    Imran Amed, Editor from London, London, United Kingdom (post author)

  39. The list is neither silly nor ignorance.An ego mind plays around readers.Have been working in fashion for ages,one thing for sure I met a lot of creative blocked mantal monsters.:-p

    Stella from London, London, United Kingdom