Fire and Ice, Leather supply squeeze, Independent jewellers to struggle, D&G line to fold, Pressure cooker

L-R Alexander McQueen, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Style.com

Chanel provides the fire, McQueen the ice (Independent)
“The mood in fashion is changing. The sight of a waif-like female stepping out in a heavily embellished, barely-there cocktail dress now seems dated. Lagerfeld’s status as the last of the great, traditionally trained couturiers is undisputed. He is also enough of a modernist, however, to respond to the zeitgeist and his reaction made for impressive viewing.”

Leather Costs Hit by Supply Squeeze (WSJ)
“European luxury-goods companies are bracing for higher hide prices as a rebound in high-end consumption and a swelling middle class in China drive up demand for leather as well as more-exotic skins. U.S. federal data show cattle-hide prices are at their highest level in nearly a decade.”

Bulgari CEO Trapani Says Independent Jewelers Will Struggle (Bloomberg)
“LVMH and large luxury competitors will increasingly dominate the industry as scale and global reach becomes more important, said Bulgari Chief Executive Officer Francesco Trapani. ‘More and more, I think the big groups will be the protagonists of the luxury business,’ said Trapani, who this week announced plans to sell Bulgari to LVMH.D&”

Dolce to Fold D&G Brand Into Main Label (WSJ)
“Italian fashion brand Dolce & Gabbana is planning to fold its secondary D&G brand into the main label… in an effort to limit cannibalization between the two lines. The D&G label will disappear, but the Dolce & Gabbana line will extend its price range to carry lower-priced clothing in addition to its more expensive, tailored collection.”

After the Pressure, the Smoke (NY Times)
“Each day in the Tuileries hundreds of people wait along a carpeted path to see the fashion people arrive for a show… The carpet begins at the Place de la Concorde, so it’s an extremely long walk of shame. There are more people waiting than ever, about 500 or 600, with cameras and microphones, and you can’t believe what they ask.”