London’s dark edge, No slowdown in luxury, Exclusive allure, Drab male models, Daphne Guinness at FIT

L-R J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll | Source:

Tipping Toward the Dark Side (IHT)
Significantly, British designers, whose colorful digitalized prints of the last couple of seasons so influenced the New York shows, have taken a sharper turn. Although not angry or belligerent in the Punk mode, an angular geometry is the new influence, with craftsmanship as the subtext. The flowery prettiness once endemic to British design has been swept away by designers using both geometric tools and a needle and thread.”

LVMH Sees No Slowdown in Luxury Goods Demand, Expands in Asia (Bloomberg)
“LVMH, the maker of Celine handbags and TAG Heuer watches, sees no signs of slowing demand for luxury products in Europe or America…’We don’t see any signs of slowing down whether it’s in Europe or in America. The world of luxury doesn’t obey the same rule.’ Carcelle said there will be less net opening of stores and more investment into improving the size of stores, because ‘luxury retail has to be a luxurious experience.’”

The Making of an ‘Exclusive’ (WSJ)
“Exclusives are valuable ammunition in the battle for market share among department stores and boutiques during this choppy economic recovery. The recession all but eliminated aspirational shoppers—consumers who drove the luxury boom by spending beyond their means. Now, high-end retailers are trying to woo a relatively small pool of affluent customers with merchandise not found anywhere else.”

Male Models at the Line of Beauty (NY Times)
Women got most of the scarlet and yellow, the capes, the trims, the pizazz, as I could see by following the shows online. The general visual impression I took away from the men’s shows was of gray, beige and brown, a lot of that brown being tanned skin. Even when a designer tried to jazz things up — Tommy Hilfiger went sort of nuts with nautical stripes at his show, held at the High Line on the first Friday of Fashion Week — the men still looked dressed-down-drab.”

Daphne Guinness’s Provocative Closets (WSJ)
“Ms. Guinness has lent some of her designer couture clothing collection and a number of towering heels – to the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York for an exhibition entitled Daphne Guinness… The exhibition was two years in the making… Ms. Guinness collects clothing from uncompromising, provocative, artistic-minded designers… As well as cutting-edge garments from young designers as if they are works of art.”