Finale at Dior Spring/Summer 2013 show | Source: Nowfashion.com
Today, Jessica Michault, editor-in-chief of Nowfashion.com, shares her thoughts on the Paris Fashion Week collections.
PARIS, France — Each season, as the international fashion flock winds its way from New York to London to Milan, there is usually a gradual yet perceptible build up of excitement for what comes last: Paris Fashion Week. After all, it’s here in the City of Light where the best and brightest designers from around the world come to show their collections. It’s here that the season’s fashion trends finally crystallise. And of course, Paris is home to the industry’s most powerful fashion houses and luxury groups.
This season, the buzz was anything but gradual. From the very first day of New York Fashion Week, there was the loud and ceaseless hum of discussion about the impending ‘battle royale’ between two of the top names in the fashion industry, Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane, who were set to show their debut ready-to-wear collections for Dior and the recently rebranded Saint Laurent, respectively, each owned by competing luxury conglomerates LVMH and PPR.
Many argued that this Paris Fashion Week would change the fashion world as we know it; that something new was about to be born. Well, the fashion world may have changed, but it did so with a whimper, not with a bang.
Dior Spring/Summer 2013 | Source: Nowfashion.com
At Dior, Raf Simons produced a beautiful collection that deconstructed the brand’s famous Bar jacket from Christian Dior’s iconic 1947 New Look collection. The show was utterly modern in the way Simons incorporated colourful, high-tech and iridescent fabrics, as well as unusual embellishments, into rounded womanly shapes that looked deceptively simple, but illustrated the designer’s tailoring prowess.
Though much of this collection covered similar territory to what Simons explored in his haute couture show in July, that is to be expected, as ready-to-wear should trickle down from couture. But happily, there was also some of Simons’ own minimalist aesthetic at play. He was less reserved with his silhouettes and dared to experiment more freely with the codes of the house. Still, there wasn’t that same excitement of discovering a completely new sartorial universe.
Over at Saint Laurent, surprise was the name of the game. The entire industry was kept in the dark, quite literally, about Hedi Slimane’s debut collection for the house until the first wide brim hat-wearing model took to the catwalk in a pitch black showspace in the rafters of the Grand Palais.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013 | Source: Nowfashion.com