MILAN, Italy — Yesterday, designer Umit Benan turned to Twitter announcing, ahead of his employer, his departure from Trussardi, the family-owned Italian luxury house he had worked for as creative director since 2011.
“I have just completed my internship at Trussardi,” tweeted Benan. “Remember the finale song at Trussardi women’s show :) ‘Road to Nowhere.’ No wonder why I love Talking Heads so much.”
The news was not completely unexpected. Rumours of an imminent split circulated during last week’s shows in Milan, a fact that International Herald Tribune critic Suzy Menkes mentioned in her review of Benan’s last show for the label. The review was favourable, as were others, but over the two years of Benan’s tenure at Trussardi the response to his work for the house had been decidedly mixed.
In an official statement, Trussardi said the separation came at the natural expiration of his contract and was consensual, yet Benan’s tweets hinted at an underlying discontent on the designer’s part. Indeed, today the designer told BoF: “My goal was to bring back the Trussardi soul at the company that Nicola Trussardi had established and, in a short time, I believe I did that. I’m happy for that, but along the way we started to have different visions with the company, so I thought it was time to move on. I thank everyone working with me along the way. In the end, there were just too many visions in one company.”
Nonetheless, the Stuttgart-born designer remains positive regarding his prospects: “It’s the first time in my life I am not planning anything. I couldn’t be any happier. I will have more energy to focus on and have fun with my own line,” said Benan, referring to the menswear line he designs, and shows in Milan, under his own name.
“When the right thing comes up, and I believe in it, then I will once again be [ready] for another company.”