LONDON, United Kingdom — Ah, the calm after the storm. This time of year always feels a bit like a blissful state of post-fashion week respite. But it won’t last for long. In other markets, the fashion week circus moves on with local fashion weeks, not only in São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Mumbai, but Kiev, Sydney and the many other global cities vying for attention while the buying books are still open. Meanwhile, designers have already turned their attention to their Resort collections, which will bow in only a few weeks time.
But if you have time to step away from the fashion fracas, we have had a stellar week of fascinating, not-to-miss content on BoF this week.
On Monday, Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez spoke to us at length about their growing immersion in Internet culture and the launch of their new website, which aims to substantially grow their e-commerce business. Smart stuff from the Proenza boys.
Logo fatigue. It’s been one of the watchwords of luxury trend forecasters for some time now, but when Louis Vuitton made the dramatic gesture of removing logos entirely from their recent A/W 2013 show in Paris, it seemed to draw a line in the sand for an industry that has gradually been moving away from obvious branding in recent years. What could it mean for the future of the world’s largest luxury brand? Certainly not the death of luxury retail, it seems. It was Vuitton who set off a building spree with their mega-maison on London’s Bond Street. And in the coming year, no less than five more massive, super-sized flagships from Chanel, Dior, Zegna, Belstaff and Fendi are set to open on the famous London boulevard, creating a kind-of larger-than-life luxury wonderland
This week, we also dropped into a retail concept of a completely different kind, & Other Stories, H&M’s latest retail launch. In short, it’s a lifestyle store priced to be accessible to everyone. And Simon Doonan’s winding and hilarious personal and professional journey provided much fodder for discussion in the BoF offices this week. But as always in our Creative Class series, there were also some great lessons to be learned from his remarkable career.
Elsewhere in fashion media, Anna Wintour’s elevation to Artistic Director of Condé Nast made serious headlines, and seemed to end the ongoing speculation of her potential exit from American Vogue. But Condé Nast is not resting on its magazine laurels. Following its investment in Farfetch, the company announced another huge investment round, this time in Rent the Runway, which closed $24m of funding. And The New York Times published a great piece on how the new designers at Valentino have found a way of modernising the brand, while staying true to its DNA, winning approval from brand’s namesake designer, who still seems to enjoy the fashion spotlight. Not an easy feat.
See you next week!