Week in Review | Poor Payors, H&M’s High-End Marketing Tactics, Behind PPR’s Rebrand, Renzo Rosso

BoF editor-in-chief Imran Amed recaps the week in the business of fashion.

Source: Shutterstock

LONDON, United Kingdom — Our team created so much good stuff on BoF this week, I am not sure exactly where to start! When in doubt, I defer to you, our BoF community. The biggest response on social media, in traffic and in our comments section came from a piece about the longstanding practices of some of fashion’s most prestigious retailers who are not paying their bills or paying very slowly, leaving young designers to scramble to find a way of staying afloat amidst cash flow crunches which threaten the fledgling brands who represent the future of fashion. We encouraged the British Fashion Council (BFC) to step in and set some guidelines to ensure that this behaviour is discouraged.

I’m pleased to say that they are going to do exactly that.

In response to the article, Caroline Rush, chief executive of the BFC, wrote to say: “New talent generates media and consumer excitement for retailers and that relationship must be mutually beneficial. The BFC aims to develop guidelines over the coming months, through consultation with retailers and designers, to create a framework for payment terms that ensure wholesale orders make, not break small businesses.”

Moving from upstart designers to a high-street behemoth, we examined the increasingly high-end marketing tactics of H&M, which has been using runway shows, red-carpet placement and glossy ad campaigns to fuel brand awareness. But is it paying off? BoF investigates.

Everyone in the industry has been wondering both publicly and privately about PPR’s decision to undergo a massive rebranding, changing its name to Kering. We decided to go straight to the source, speaking to Louise Beveridge, senior vice president of communications, who has been overseeing the name change to find out the logic, in her own words. She delivered some interesting and compelling answers.

The week’s biggest power move went to Mr Nicola Formichetti, formerly of Mugler and now the Artistic Director of Diesel, one of the biggest brands on planet fashion. A few weeks ago, I sat down with Renzo Rosso, his new boss and Chairman of the Only The Brave Group, which owns Diesel, to learn more about the new appointment and his plans for the denim giant, as well as the other brands in his growing portfolio.

But there’s more! Our friends at Style.com/Print shared a great piece by Alex Fury on the magic behind Rick Owens’ fashion shows, we chatted with the talented Russian fashion editor Anya Ziourova, and reviewed the brilliant new Candy films by Prada.

There were also some other great pieces from around the world of fashion, business and technology which featured in our Daily Digest. I particularly enjoyed the New York Timesinsight into the ‘global branding’ of the Kooples (we covered the rise of French contemporary brands last year) and Bloomberg’s analysis of the opportunities for Asos, Boden and Topshop to enter the US market. And there were stellar financial results from Prada and Versace.

Enjoy our long-reads over the weekend. More from us next week.

Imran Amed, Founder and & Editor-in-Chief

Links:

It’s Time to Talk About Fashion’s Poor Payors (Opinion)

Are H&M’s High-End Marketing Tactics Paying Off? (Intelligence)

Why Did PPR Change Its Name to Kering? (Intelligence)

Power Moves | Formichetti Leaves Mugler, Said to Join Diesel (News & Analysis)

CEO Talk | Renzo Rosso, Chairman, Only The Brave (People)

Rick Owens’ Smoke and Mirrors (Intelligence)

The Creative Class | Anya Ziourova, Fashion Director (People)

Prada’s Sweet Candy (Fashion 2.0)

Global Branding in Their Blood (Daily Digest)

Prada Stays Confident in Difficult Market as Net Beats Estimates (News & Analysis)

Versace May Reach Sales Goal Early As It Weighs Growth Options (News & Analysis)