Fashion Chatter | Newcastle Fashion Week, Lucas Nascimento, Cara Bags

Fashion folk love to chatter. So what were the topics that dominated the conversation this weekend at London Fashion Week?

Flight map | Source: Julie Gilhart

LONDON, United Kingdom — As the fashion flock soldiered on, the weather continued to create havoc. Having narrowly escaped record snowfalls in New York, many industry insiders endured turbulence-racked flights over the Atlantic only to be diverted to Newcastle and Dublin due to gale force winds and heavy rain in London. Amongst them was none other than fashion’s queen bee, American Vogue editor Anna Wintour, who was said to have telephoned Hamish Bowles, also stranded, to report that her Newcastle hotel room was equipped with a Corby Trouser Press of the sort travelling salesmen use to press their wares.

Several top models, including Jourdan Dunn and Georgia May Jagger, as well as Style.com’s Maya Singer, were also marooned in Newcastle, while consultant Julie Gilhart, Elizabeth von Guttman of System magazine and several others spent the night in Dublin.

 

Still the strategy of getting top figures to London Fashion Week earlier in the week appears to be working, evidenced by a full bench of heavyweight editors at Saturday afternoon’s JW Anderson show, the second since luxury conglomerate LVMH announced it had taken a minority stake in the brand and hired Jonathan Anderson, the label’s designer, to take the creative helm at Loewe.

As the afternoon continued, press and buyers were soon chattering about a beautifully polished collection in luxurious fabrics, rich colours and relaxed silhouettes from Lucas Nascimento, a potential new breakout star from London Fashion Week. Indeed, the Brazilian-born, London-based designer has recently started working with Maria Lemos, founder of sales and communications agency Rainbowwave. Lemos is known for her spotting young talent and helping them build their businesses to greater scale, having previously picked up JW Anderson, Peter Pilotto and Ostwald Helgason.

With no creative director to replace the departed Emma Hill, Mulberry is not holding a full-fledged runway show this season. Following a wobble when chief executive Bruno Guillon tried to move the brand upmarket, away from its traditional “affordable luxury” positioning, the brand has been scrambling. Late last month, poor sales results sent the stock price tumbling 27 percent to a four-year low. But with a major announcement from the brand expected on Sunday, the fashion flock pricked up its ears. Some speculated that a new creative director would be announced, but it soon emerged that Mulberry will be launching a new collection of bags in collaboration with British model Cara Delevingne. The announcement, delivered at a presentation held at Claridge’s, appears to signal a return to a strategy that has served Mulberry well in the past: celebrity-driven bags like the ‘Alexa’ and ‘Del Rey,’ named after Alexa Chung and Lana Del Rey.