Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Never Sugary

Ennio Capasa’s very own brand of cool — sensual and tailored, never too confrontational — was back on track.
Costume National Autumn/Winter 2016 | Source: InDigital.tv
By
  • Angelo Flaccavento

MILAN, Italy — In Milan, romanticism isn't just about frills and bows, thank goodness. Images of Blitz kids and visceral artists such as Marina Abramovich — in her 1970s heyday — and Yoko Ono were pinned to the Costume National moodboard backstage at the brand's show today. It was an interesting clash of inspirations, which designer Ennio Capasa summed up with the title 'Romantic Wave,' addressing his heartfelt desire to look at the future with a poetic gaze.

Keeping his trademark edgy, angular cuts, mixing androgyny with riffs of a softer, sparkly femininity, Capasa delivered one of his strongest collections in recent memory. After a few weak seasons, the designer's very own brand of cool — sensual and tailored, never too confrontational — was back on track. It made for an unremitting line-up of multi-layered coats and floaty dresses, slouchy pantsuits and street-savvy pajamas. Costume National's edginess got a soft, but never sugary spin and it felt fresh.

In This Article

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Fashion Week
Independent show reviews from fashion’s top critics.

What I Learned From Fashion Month

From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.


view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
BoF Professional - How to Turn Data Into Meaningful Customer Connections
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
BoF Professional - How to Turn Data Into Meaningful Customer Connections