The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
LONDON, United Kingdom — Christopher Kane is probably one of the most tactile designers at London Fashion Week. Developing on his signature play on plasticity and maneuvering synthetic fabrics to feel luxurious, Autumn/Winter 2014 saw an array of new techniques. Sheets of cascading fabric moved in the wind like the turning pages of a book while dark synthetic material rustled like rain as models walked down the runway.
It was all a clever play on contrast. As suggested in the set (black walls with a harsh contrasting white light running through the derelict office at the Strand), the collection witnessed the pairing of unlikely opposites. Baby doll dresses had polyurethane accents to give an element of athleticism, oversized Le Smoking jackets cropped above the waistline were paired with pencil trousers and patent tops were mixed with a luxurious touch of fur.
For the first time, Kane also introduced holographic floral prints and a new sleeve that resembled the movement of folding paper — all part of the designer's kooky aesthetic.
With plenty of new ideas of offer, the models were kept plain like blank canvases while the colour palette was largely monochromatic with hints of highlighter green, yellow and pink.
ADVERTISEMENT
Time and time again, Christopher Kane has proven to have found new ways of dressing luxury in an imaginative and urban way. It is indeed a strength to be so hands-on especially when everything you touch turns to gold.
Powered by Nowfashion.com
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.