The Art and Science of Valuing Vintage

LONDON, United Kingdom — Falling under the spell of a beautiful dress, a gorgeous pair of shoes or a well-crafted handbag is no strange feeling for followers of fashion. Falling in love with a piece that was first worn 30 years ago and has been waiting, it seems, just for you to discover it, is all the more rare. This is the magic of vintage fashion. It’s what makes pre-owned Hermès bags go for double their estimated value at

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Finding Your M.O. | Part 1: From Big Idea to Launch

On the heels of last week’s announcement that Moda Operandi has raised $36 million in new funding, we are pleased to launch a new BoF series, Finding Your M’O, penned by the company’s co-founder and CEO Áslaug Magnúsdóttir on her experience at the helm of a fashion technology start-up. NEW YORK, United States — In February 2011, I launched an online store — Moda Operandi — with my business partner, Lauren Santo Domingo. Moda

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Op-Ed | Can Ethical Fashion Really Be Fashionable?

Vivienne Westwood in Kenya | Photo: Juergen Teller

RIO DE JANEIRO, Brazil — Fashion is driven by desire. But ethical fashion has been driven by — well, what exactly? A wish to semaphore that one is a caring kind of person while walking through life in pleather shoes? There are, of course, style-setters so chic they can rock a hand-loomed yak hair poncho, being good while looking great. The writer is not one of those people. The writer is, however, a veteran of more than 25 years on

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Global Briefing | Could Africa be the Next Frontier for Fashion Retail?

Westgate Mall, Nairobi | Source: kamalkaur.net

NAIROBI, Kenya — In recent weeks, the media hype around Africa has been remarkable, with several articles in major publications proclaiming the continent “the next Asia.” In fashion, Franca Sozzani even dedicated the entire May issue of L’Uomo Vogue to “rebranding Africa,” while this year’s IHT Luxury conference will discuss “the potential of Africa, both as a producer and ultimately consumer of luxury goods.” But to what extent is

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Hiut Denim Unites Artisans with Technology to Bring Back Made in Britain

Hiut Denim Company | Source: hiutdenim.co.uk

CARDIGAN, United Kingdom — Few people immediately think of Wales as having been impacted by the tide of outsourcing that has forced factories across the United States and Europe to shutter. But in the small community of Cardigan, in Mid Wales, the growth of outsourcing and offshoring has been devastating. Once upon a time, Cardigan bustled with Britain’s biggest jeans factory, which produced upwards of 35,000 pairs of jeans per

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Op-Ed | Are We Failing to Fulfill the Potential of Fashion Film?

NEW YORK, United States — Each season, shortly after the four main fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris, marketers in our industry begin planning their print campaigns for the following season. It often takes us weeks, if not months, to assemble our creative teams and produce immaculately crafted shoots, followed by still more months to buy media placements in magazines and on outdoor billboards. Meanwhile, for

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Is Fashion Ready for a New Aesthetic?

Editorial GIF by Reed + Rader | Source: V Magazine

LONDON, United Kingdom — Instagram, Barbour, vinyl records, artisanal butchers, moustaches, and the biography of your potatoes lovingly detailed on chalkboard signs at Whole Foods. What is wrong with this picture? As London-based writer and entrepreneur Russell M Davies puts it, “most of Shoreditch would be wandering around in a leather apron if it could. With pipe and beard and rickets. Every new coffee shop and organic foodery

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The Creative Class | Inez and Vinoodh, Photographers

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Lanvin

NEW YORK, United States — In hindsight, it seems remarkable that there was once a moment when combining digital technology and fashion photography was a radical move. But when Dutch photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin first began to manipulate their images, they were among the first to see and seize the tremendous potential of these new digital tools in a fashion context. “We saw a demonstration of what Paintbox

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Made in America | The False Choice

SAN FRANCISCO, United States – Even as the American economy begins to show signs of life, with positive economic indicators and growing consumer confidence, the wider arc of conversation, fuelled in no small part by the debate surrounding the upcoming U.S. presidential election, has focused on a complex and politically charged question: what is the role of American manufacturing in the 21st century? It’s a theme that has been taken

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Jenna Lyons Says You Have To Make Quick Decisions From the Gut

Jenna Lyons at New York Fashion Week | Source: J Crew

NEW YORK, United States — “You have to make quick decisions,” Jenna Lyons, the president and creative director of J.Crew, told BoF. “Ultimately, fashion is all about gut anyway — there’s no science to what this should look like or that should look like or how many times you can redraw that or resketch that or redo that catalogue cover. The fact of the matter is, either it grabs you or it doesn’t.” Indeed, it’s trust in instinct,

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Three Women Behind the Scenes of Brazil’s Fashion Industry

Alice Ferraz

SÃO PAULO, Brazil — For many, Brazil’s body culture, eternal summer, and supermodels — not to mention its successful bids to host both the 2014 World Cup and the 2016 Olympic Games — make it the sexiest of all the BRIC countries. But data released in February by Brazil’s official statistics bureau revealed that the country’s GDP grew by just 2.7 percent in 2011, a dramatic reversal compared to the 7.5 percent surge registered in

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Why Relaunch Old Fashion Houses?

Moynat’s Paris Flagship | Source: chaussure-de-luxe.com

PARIS, France — “Would you like me to tell you about the brand’s heritage?” a velvet-gloved salesman in a bespoke suit asks every visitor who crosses the threshold of the Moynat leather goods store which opened a few months ago on rue Saint Honoré, a step away from the trendy Hotel Costes. An affirmative answer prompts a long and winding story that starts with the inception of the brand in 1849, accompanied by a book of pictures

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BoF Exclusive | Italo Zucchelli’s Sublime Futurism — Part II

Calvin Klein Mens by Italo Zucchelli | Photo: Karim Sadli for 032c

In Part I, we examined Italo Zucchelli’s philosophy of menswear. Today, we explore the designer’s creative process and approach to innovation. NEW YORK, United States — A honeyed accent doesn’t give away Italo Zucchelli’s heritage as much as his ability to cut a jacket. A Wagnerian sense of color and experimental materials reveal professional stints with both Romeo Gigli and Jil Sander respectively. He may seem of a piece with

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