At Opposite Ends of the Fashion Spectrum, Demi-Couture and Luxury Sportswear Strike a Chord

Left: Mary Katrantzou’s ‘Jewel Tree’ dress, Right: A look from Christopher Raeburn S/S 2012 | Source: Style.com

LONDON, United Kingdom — Luxury casualwear and demi-couture don’t appear to have much in common. You can’t get much further from a hand-embellished crystal crinoline dress than a silk jersey t-shirt or a sporty windbreaker. But in recent seasons, many of fashion’s brightest young talents have been gravitating towards one extreme or the other. Labels like Alexander Wang, The Row and Christopher Raeburn have struck a chord with their

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The Rise, Stumble and Future of Gilt Groupe’s Business Model

Gilt Groupe warehouse | Source: Fantabulously Frugal

Today, BoF takes an in-depth look at the past, present and future of Gilt Groupe’s business model and speaks with Gilt Groupe CEO Kevin Ryan on his plans to continue the company’s ascendance. NEW YORK, United States — Back in November of 2007, BoF was amongst the very first media outlets to write about Gilt Groupe, the New York-based start-up that went on to dramatically reshape the online retail market for fashion, building a

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The Creative Class | Kate Lanphear, Stylist

NEW YORK, United States — It’s hard to miss Kate Lanphear. With her razor-sharp platinum locks and androgynous, punked out look, inspired by Catholic iconography, skateboarding and Norwegian metal bands, the American Elle style director is a fashion world fixture. Not only is she perched in a top spot at one of America’s largest fashion publications, but she has also become a favourite of the roving corps of street-style

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The Spotlight | Song For The Mute

Song For The Mute S/S 2012 | Source: Song For The Mute

SYDNEY, Australia — This month, the BoF Spotlight turns to Song for the Mute, an Australian menswear label founded by graphic artist Melvin Tanaya and Accademia Italiana Di Moda-trained designer Lyna Ty, whose sleek, modern clothes and unconventional approach to traditional fabrics made them the first ever menswear brand to win the prestigious Designer Award earlier this year at the L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival, an accolade

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Op-Ed | Remembering Loulou de la Falaise

Loulou de la Falaise | Source: Luxe Magazine

Debra Scherer remembers Yves Saint Laurent muse Loulou de la Falaise — once called “the quintessential Rive Gauche haute bohémienne” by The New Yorker — who passed away on Saturday at the age of 63 in Paris. PARIS, France — The last time I saw Loulou de la Falaise was on American television. Yet, as a muse to the legendary Yves Saint Laurent, she will always be remembered as one of the most influential women from a

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The Spotlight | Malene Oddershede Bach

Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 | Source: Malene Oddershede Bach

LONDON, United Kingdom — This month, the BoF Spotlight turns to Malene Oddershede Bach, the Denmark-born, London-based designer whose meticulously constructed Spring-Summer collection of architectural-yet-feminine silhouettes, textured knits, silks and cottons, and vivid, unexpected prints stood out at Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s ‘Ones to Watch’ show this season. Oddershede Bach’s spring colour palette of electric pink, turquoise,

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The French Contemporary Wave That’s Reshaping Ready-to-Wear

Couples from The Kooples ad campaigns | Source: The Kooples

PARIS, France — Last April, a journalist from French daily newspaper Le Figaro asked Frederic Lefebvre, French Secretary of State for Trade, to name his favourite book. His answer: “Without doubt Zadig and Voltaire, it is a lesson in life, I dip into it often.” Mr. Lefebvre was, of course, mixing up Zadig ou la Destinée written by Voltaire in 1748 with Zadig & Voltaire, the fifteen-year-old mid-market French fashion brand. And

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Op-Ed | Why Do We Take Pictures of Clothes?

NEW YORK, United States — I once began a fashion meeting at French Vogue in Paris with a question to the rest of the team: “Why do we take pictures of clothes?” Everyone just gave me that look and said “Debra!” I know it probably seemed crazy for a fashion editor to say this, but sometimes we need to ask ourselves the question and I think now is a great time to revisit this topic. Franceline Prat, an editor at French Vogue and a

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Arc’teryx: An Urban Journey from Outdoor Apparel to Menswear Fashion

Pieces from the Fall 2011 collection | Source: Arc’teryx Veilance

VANCOUVER, Canada — An unassuming building, in an unassuming industrial complex. It’s hard to believe that this is the headquarters of Arc’teryx, an outdoor apparel and equipment company known for its shell jackets, base layers, packs and climbing harnesses. Of course, not far away are the abundant ski runs and hiking trails of Vancouver’s North Shore, where personal experience and first-hand product testing have given rise to the

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Global Briefing | How Can Emerging Fashion Brands Get a Leg Up in Chinese Retail?

BEIJING, China — With Chinese luxury consumption projected to account for 20 percent, or US$27 billion, of global luxury sales by 2015, it’s no secret that big international fashion brands are racing to establish and expand their retail operations in the country. But as competition for prime real estate surges, it’s clear that not all brands are treated equally. While some find it relatively easy to secure retail space, others have

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Addressing Fashion’s Intellectual Property Conundrum

LONDON, United Kingdom — When reports first surfaced in March about the striking similarities between Proenza Schouler’s PS1 bag and Target’s Mossimo Messenger, the discomfort within the fashion industry was palpable. What was particularly troubling was that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the design duo behind Proenza Schouler, had a longstanding relationship with Target. Indeed, in 2007 the designers debuted their capsule

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Op-Ed | Burberry: From Plough Horse to Thoroughbred?

Burberry A/W 2011 Campaign | Source: Burberry

Burberry A/W 2011 Campaign | Source: Burberry LONDON, United Kingdom — Fourteen years ago, Burberry was all but put out to pasture, suffering from a dusty image and its logo being pasted on cake tins, doilies and aprons. Rose-Marie Bravo was put in the saddle and took Burberry for a ride down Chav lane to the gates of the luxury racecourse. Despite doing a great job in fixing Burberry over her nine-year tenure, setting the

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