Berlin’s luxe address, Hong Kong retail, Sell outs, Fendi fountain restoration, Vogue Thailand

Kaufhaus des Westens, Berlin | Source: Bloomberg

Berlin’s Ku’Damm in Style as West Draws Hip Shops (Business Week) “The decision by fashion brands such as Hermes and Louis Vuitton to focus on west Berlin has shifted attention away from Friedrichstrasse, the eastern strip that attracted most retail investment after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989.” Hong Kong retail: as the rich go to Paris, the rest go mid-market (FT) “The very wealthy Chinese appear to be

…Continue Reading

Skipping NYFW, My Wardrobe seeks investment, Evolving menswear, Burda Media, Joan Burstein

New York Fashion Week, Damrosch Park | Source: NY Times

Why Some Labels Will Sidestep Fashion Week (WSJ) “New York’s calendar has become noticeably more crowded as labels squeeze in with entrepreneurial zeal. While fashion shows used to be limited to high-style labels, midprice contemporary labels and menswear brands are now muscling into New York. One reason: No official body controls the calendar, unlike in Milan and Paris, where just a few dozen labels are invited to show

…Continue Reading

Week in Review | Contemplating Paris Couture, Golden Lane, Online Vintage, Paris menswear moments

Week in Review January 21-25

Colin’s Column | Is Haute Couture Poised for Reinvention or Irrelevance? (Opinion) “Couture! This magic word was all but forgotten 30-odd years ago, except in the most exalted and privileged of social circles. Since its high point in the late 1940s and 1950s, couture clients had shrivelled away just as the lifestyles the couturiers once clothed had withered as well.” Colin’s Column | Paris Couture Week,

…Continue Reading

Belgian shield for LVMH, The Milan Plan, Mobile China, Benetton ads, Iris Van Herpen

Bernard Arnault at Louis Vuitton | Source: FT

Arnault says Belgian move can shield LVMH (FT) “The head of LVMH has been accused by the media in his homeland of wanting Belgian nationality to escape President François Hollande’s higher French taxes but he has repeatedly insisted that he ‘is and will remain fiscally domiciled in France’.” The Milan Plan (China Daily) “The scene is familiar enough – an army of buyers, journalists, celebrities

…Continue Reading

Coach shares slump, Couturier virtues, Tod’s in line, Freedom in Paris, Vogue tops ad pages

Valentino couture by Valerio Mezzanotti | Source: NY Times

Coach handbag sales take hit, stock slumps (Reuters) “Coach Inc on Wednesday reported weak holiday-quarter results and unveiled a new strategy for shoes and clothing, spooking investors with the notion that the days of strong demand for its premium leather handbags may be numbered.” And Precisely So (NY Times) “The designers are learning to use the extraordinary skills of a couture atelier to be more self-critical

…Continue Reading

Wu-ing Obama, Kenzo’s comeback kids, Woodland fable, Oscar’s ceremony, Juergen Teller

Carol Lim and Humberto Leon | Source: Asia Pacific Arts

Picking a Winner Amid a Field of Bold Theories (NY Times) “There are a number of theories as to why Michelle Obama, who has generally spread her fashion love around to many designers, would select the same one for both of her inaugural gowns. An obvious one is that she likes a Jason Wu dress.” Leon And Lim: Kenzo’s Cool Comeback Kids (The Daily Beast)  “The new Kenzo customer continues to evolve under the pair’s

…Continue Reading

The iPad effect, Dior’s earthly delights, Watchmakers lose lustre, Dress inflation, Jenna’s world

Christian Dior by Raf Simons by Chris Moore/Karl Prouse | Source: IHT

The iPad effect: How to unite physical and digital worlds (FT) “Sales staff are using iPads featuring a range of digital technologies to encourage customers to play with and try on jewellery and watches virtually. One technology company has almost doubled in size in the past year to accommodate demand from watch, jewellery and luxury clients.” At Dior, Garden of Earthly Delights (IHT) “Flowers budding, blossoming,

…Continue Reading

Lemaire’s charm, Cracks in luxe, Richemont declines, Metrosexuals in China, Missoni mystery

Christophe Lemaire by Patrick Swirck | Source: Hermès

The Discreet Charm of Christophe Lemaire (WSJ Magazine) “It’s been two years since Lemaire was hired to replace Jean Paul Gaultier as the designer of women’s ready-to-wear for Hermès. This accounts for less than 10 percent of the company’s sales and is dwarfed by accessories, which have the advantage of being both more iconic… and more accessible, like its silk scarves, watches and enamel

…Continue Reading

Week in Review | PPR’s Christopher Kane Investment, Going Corporate, 10 Fashion Moments in Milan

Week in Review December 14-18

What to Make of PPR’s Christopher Kane Investment (Analysis) “But fast forward a few more years and today, both Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen have grown into medium-sized businesses with over €100 million in annual revenue each by pursuing business models that fit, respectively, with their unique brand DNAs.” Finding Your M.O. | Part 14: Going Corporate (Education) “As in life, the time comes when every

…Continue Reading

Bulgari’s billionaires, Web fashion foray, Top of the world, Fashion over art, Inside Brioni

[caption id="attachment_40456" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Nicola and Paolo Bulgari | Source: Forbes/Getty Images"][/caption] Bulgari Brothers, Jewelers To The Stars, Are Billionaires Thanks To Tiny LVMH Stake (Forbes) "In 2011, however, French luxury empire Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) acquired Bulgari in an all-share deal, handing over 3.6% of the conglomerate to the family. Last year, as LVMH’s stock rose, the Bulgaris and nephew Trapani sold a tiny sliver of their stake, reportedly to take care of taxes and other expenses." Amid U.K. Retailer Woes, a Web Fashion Foray (BusinessWeek) "As more British retailers succumb to competition from the Internet, a venture capital firm is underscoring the shift with its first investment in a fashion seller to develop its online business." On Top of the…

…Continue Reading

Italy’s British outpost, Beautiful youth, Changes at Lucky, Luxury’s big secret, Model lawsuit

Dsquared Autumn/Winter 2013 | Source: NOWFASHION

In Italy, a British Outpost (NY Times) “In other words, Burberry, Dsquared, Cavalli and Gucci are not names you will often read in the same sentence. Yet a pronounced Englishness ran through the collections from each of those houses, making Milan feel temporarily like an extension of the Tuscan region called Chiantishire.” Youth Is Beautiful (IHT) “The passing of the flame from a much older 70-something generation

…Continue Reading

In-store tech, Italy’s bad boys, Wholesale drop at Burberry, Mandarin benefits, The Russian pack

[caption id="attachment_40392" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Victoria's Secret Bond Street store video wall | Source: AV Interactive"][/caption] Luxury retailers leading the way with in-store technology (Guardian) "London's famous shopping streets have become a hub for retailers that are transforming the way they engage with consumers, and these stores are some of the most cutting-edge in the world." Amid Tax Scandal, Italy's Bad Boys Of Fashion Dolce And Gabbana Become Billionaires (Forbes) "As Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana ready their latest collections for this spring’s slew of international catwalk shows, their lawyers will be working behind the scenes to ensure two of Italy’s most successful designers won’t be spending the next few Fashion Weeks behind bars." Burberry warns of wholesale revenue drop (FT) "The credit…

…Continue Reading

PPR invests in Christopher Kane, NAP sales up, Alpha male, Wearable technology, Role reversal

Christopher Kane A/W 2013 | Photo: Morgan O'Donovan

PPR buys 51 per cent stake in Christopher Kane (Telegraph) “Following on from rumours which surfaced in November , the luxury conglomerate PPR has today confirmed that it has bought a 51 per cent stake in the business of London Fashion Week label Christopher Kane.” Net-A-Porter sees sales increase by 55 per cent (Telegraph) “Net-A-Porter, the online luxury fashion destination, experienced a 55 per cent rise in

…Continue Reading