Camilla Nickerson is one of fashion's most accomplished fashion editors. Her cerebral aesthetic has “rare authority,” challenging the viewer, as it challenged the traditional modes of editorial styling. She has styled 28 covers for American Vogue, along with editing innumerable sittings for British Vogue, i-D, the now-defunct The Face and Tatler among others.
Nickerson has styled runway shows for fashion houses including Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent and Calvin Klein. Calvin Klein’s creative director Francisco Costa went so far as to declare the fashion editor his muse.
US Vogue described Nickerson’s style as “fiercely modern” in its sensibility. However, modernity in this case should not be mistaken for simplicity. Nickerson’s images are laden with far-ranging reference points, often with more meaning than visual stimulation. “I try to bring in something from worlds that are outside fashion, and then try to relate fashion to it. I’m trying to think about the world today.”
Nickerson released a book entitled Fashion: Photography of the Nineties, coedited with her then husband Neville Wakefield. The book charts fashion’s shift from the heyday of glamour in the eighties to the often jarring images of anti-fashion in the nineties, photographed by Nickerson’s most regular collaborators: Steven Meisel, Juergen Teller and Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.
Nickerson was in a perfect position to curate the book. Having styled Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington and Tatjana Patitz for the video of George Michael’s musical hit ‘Freedom, 90!’ in 1990, creating some of the decades most iconic images, she would go on to play an essential part in the creation of fashion’s new minimalist aesthetic. As her boss Anna Wintour stated in 2011, “I’ve learned from past experience that if Camilla is seeing the sea, we’re all likely to be taking in the ocean view before long.”