Robert Duffy and Marc Jacobs | Source: Twitpic via @robertcduffy

In our latest CEO Talk, Robert Duffy, longtime business partner of Marc Jacobs, speaks to BoF about the power of Twitter.

NEW YORK, United States — When Robert Duffy posted his first-ever Tweet on 30 January, saying “Welcome Tweeties,” he had no idea what he was getting into. What happened in the weeks that followed is an excellent lesson for fashion executives everywhere: the best way to understand social media is to use social media.

You see, Robert Duffy had never used Twitter before. In fact, he didn’t really even know what Twitter was until a member of his team introduced it to him. Eventually, he warmed to the idea of using Twitter to share the behind-the-scenes action of the Marc Jacobs show, still the highlight of New York Fashion Week even after 26 years in business.

It wasn’t all smooth sailing. On his second day of tweeting, Duffy accidentally deleted all of his tweets. In the days that followed, he learned about direct messaging and retweeting and privacy on Twitter. Still, Duffy stuck with it. He began each day by getting on his stationary bicycle and reading the hundreds of tweets that had come in over night, listening and responding to feedback and questions on stores, customer service, the Marc Jacobs website, and — music to our BoF ears — how to run a fashion business.

Soon, Robert became an expert tweeter, not only on the techniques and norms of using Twitter, but also by speaking authentically in his own voice and even sharing a few private moments with Marc Jacobs himself. This authenticity resonated across the fashion Twittersphere in thousands and thousands of retweets, and spreading to blog posts and articles in the mainstream media.

By February 13, the power of Twitter had really dawned on Duffy: “I have learned much from doing this,” he tweeted. “Am really better for the experiance [sic]. You talk to the whole world in 1 second. Takes no time. Amazing!”

Still, he announced to his almost 7,000 followers that he would be hanging up his Twitter hat. And yesterday, after the Marc by Marc Jacobs show, his @robertcduffy handle was transformed into @MJInternational, leaving room for an as-yet unnamed someone else to fill Duffy’s shoes.

In a very special exclusive CEO Talk for The Business of Fashion, I caught up with Robert Duffy backstage before the Marc by Marc show, armed with questions from our loyal BoF followers, to learn more about his Twitter experience.

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Pierre Mallevays of Savigny Partners | Source: Savigny Partners

Today, BoF brings you an exclusive interview with a key adviser to the private family trust which, as announced today, made an investment in Lanvin, one of the hottest fashion brands in the world.

PARIS, France — Over the past few years, under the creative stewardship of industry darling Alber Elbaz, Lanvin has risen to heights that most fashion brands can only dream of, with nearly unanimous positive reviews from buyers and editors and a seemingly insatiable appetite amongst luxury fashion customers for Lanvin’s clothes, accessories and jewelry.

There was only one problem. After having invested significant sums early on, Shaw-Lan Chu-Wang, who purchased Lanvin from L’Oreal in 2001, was not injecting any more cash to grow the business. This left Lanvin’s hyper industry buzz and brand potential underexploited.

Not anymore. Today, in a press release issued by Lanvin (and as reported in WWD), it was announced that Arpège, the brand’s parent company, has received a cash injection for a minority investment representing 12.5 percent of the equity. The investment was made with a “long-term” view, apparently an indication that the investor does not plan to flip the investment for a quick profit. This is a refreshing change from some of the disastrous investments we have seen in fashion brands in recent years.

I spoke with Pierre Mallevays who advised the private family trust on their investment in Lanvin to learn more about the dynamics of the deal and the fashion and luxury market in general. Pierre is a friend and colleague, and one of the leading investment experts in the luxury space, first having worked as Head of M&A for LVMH for over seven years, and now as Managing Partner of London-based Savigny Partners, a boutique M&A advisory firm.

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Christopher Colfer, CEO, Alfred Dunhill | Source: Dunhill

LONDON, United Kingdom — In 1893, at the age of 21, Alfred Dunhill inherited his father’s saddlery business in London and slowly but surely transformed it into a global business spanning several categories including timepieces, automobile accessories and clothing. In this way, it was the first global luxury men’s brand, paving the way for brands like Ermengildo Zegna, Dior Homme and Tom Ford to follow in its footsteps many years later.

But over the years, despite a strong product mix and rich heritage, Dunhill has lacked a clear creative identity. And while Dunhill has the most prominent presence of any men’s luxury brand in China with over 75 stores, its presence in the United Kingdom, its home market, has paled in comparison.

In 2005, Dunhill announced it was bringing in 36 year-old Christopher Colfer from elsewhere in Richemont, where amongst other things, Colfer had overseen the Swiss luxury group’s prescient early investment in Net-a-Porter. Upon taking the reins as CEO, Colfer embarked on a transformation strategy for Dunhill: buying back licenses, appointing Kim Jones as Creative Director, and launching a series of ‘Homes’ in key markets, including London’s Bourdon House.

Formerly the London residence of the late 2nd Duke of Westminster, who had wooed Coco Chanel within its beautiful walls, Bourdon House includes a private member’s club (modeled after the Hellfire Clubs) and is Dunhill’s London ‘Home,’ tucked away near the end of bustling Mount Street, the new epicenter of London’s luxury retail explosion.

I recently met Chris at Bourdon House to take stock of what has been a very busy few years and to look ahead into Dunhill’s plans for the future.

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Harold Tillman, Chairman, The British Fashion Council

LONDON, United Kingdom — Long before he was appointed Chairman of The British Fashion Council, Harold Tillman had already shown a commitment for supporting British Fashion, and young designers in particular. He famously gave Paul Smith his first job. And, in my first meeting with him back in 2006, Mr. Tillman and I vigorously debated and discussed the common challenges faced by the city’s designers and what could possibly be done to support them. A few months earlier, he had personally financed a £1m scholarship program at his alma mater, The London College of Fashion, to sponsor 10 students each year.

So, it must be with great satisfaction that Mr. Tillman reads widespread reports of the great comeback that London Fashion Week is making this season. The buzz about London’s young designers is hotter than ever. And, with a flood of returning brands, designers and important American and European editors, this will certainly be a fashion week to remember.

But, Mr. Tillman will also be the first to admit that hype and media attention are not enough. A seasoned entrepreneur (he took his first company public at the age of 24), business builder (with Belinda Earl, CEO of Jaeger, he has re-built the excitement around the venerable British brand), and investor (with a group of partners, he recently saved Acquscutum from the brink), Tillman recognises the importance of secure financing, flawless execution and great design for success in fashion.

On this, the first day of London Fashion week, I reached Mr Tillman by email to better understand his plans for London Fashion Week, the various initiatives planned to support British fashion businesses, and his long-term objectives for the British fashion industry. In particular, now that several young fashion businesses in London — Erdem and Christopher Kane included — have achieved annual revenues of over £1m, now is the time to assess how to take these high-potential businesses to the next level.

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Sojin Lee, Co-Founder, Fashionair.com

LONDON, United Kingdom — Over the last decade, the internet and the mp3 have revolutionised the way people access and consume music, fundamentally threatening the system of controlled distribution that traditional record companies had built. Now a similar digital tidal wave is giving consumers unprecedented access to the once closed, “insider” world of fashion.

The rapid pace of chance is causing disruption across the industry and calling into question the logic of the current fashion calendar, where consumers have access to collections online months before they arrive at retail and fast fashion copycats create and market look-a-like merchandise faster and cheaper.

In the context of these underlying shifts, Sojin Lee, former chief buyer for Net-a-Porter, has teamed up with multi-millionaire and founder of 19 Entertainment, Simon Fuller, whose impressive track record in the music industry includes managing the Spice Girls through the peak of their success. Together, they have launched Fashionair, a new platform for “fashion entertainment” that’s both digital and democratic.

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Federico Marchetti Founder and CEO of YOOX Group, Photo:Luca Cottinelli

MILAN, Italy — Federico Marchetti is one of fashion’s online pioneers. In 2000, when Marchetti established Yoox.com, online fashion retail was still in its infancy. in 2008, the Yoox Group, which includes the original YOOX site, as well as white-label sites for 18 fashion brands, including Emporio Armani, Marni and Pucci, and thecorner.com, shipped more than 1.7 million products to over 53 countries around the world, with €101 million in revenues, a 48 percent increase over the previous year.

Always looking to stay on the online fashion frontier, Marchetti’s latest move is to partner with another online visionary, Nick Knight, and Ruth Hogben (recently featured on BoF), to launch an online film, marking the launch of womenswear on thecorner.com. The film, which debuts today, features brands including Maison Martin Margiela, Haider Ackermann, Ann Demeulemeester, Viktor & Rolf, Proenza Schouler, Rick Owens, Hussein Chalayan, Raf Simons, Kris Van Assche and Sophia Kokosalaki.

2009 is also shaping up to be a big year for the YOOX Group in financing terms. Up until now, YOOX has been funded by a series of venture capital firms, including Benchmark Capital, and private investors. But later this year, YOOX is expected to conduct an initial public offering of its shares on the Milan Bourse.

Federico recently spoke to me about his new creative and business initiatives, which continue to set the pace for online fashion retail.

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Jose Neves, Founder and CEO, farfetch.com

LONDON, United Kingdom — Everyone now acknowledges the importance of online retail in fashion. But how does a small fashion boutique, with limited resources break into the e-commerce game? The costs of building and maintaining a top-quality site can be prohibitive, not to mention the operational challenge of managing deliveries and returns. What’s more, with everyone piling in to the fashion e-commerce game, there is so much product out there, on so many niche sites, that it can be tough for small retailers to attract traffic.

Enter farfetch.com, the brainchild of José Neves, a serial fashion entrepreneur who is also an owner of B-Store, Swear and SIX, a manufacturer and showroom for shoes by Opening Ceremony, Ksubi and Surface to Air. Through these myriad experiences, Neves identified an opportunity to support independent fashion boutiques and designers so that they can compete in the burgeoning online retail space with the same level of resources and customer service the big guns.

I caught up with José to learn more about the farfetch model and his plans to take the business model to the United States and Brazil.

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Brian Hill, Chief Executive Officer, Aritzia

VANCOUVER, Canada — Vancouver may be far away from the traditional centres of the fashion world, but in recent years this laid-back Canadian city has produced two fashion success stories that are taking the North American market by storm. The first, of course, is Lululemon. The second is Aritzia, a vertically-integrated fashion chain targeted at 15-30 year old women with a penchant for style and the disposable income to buy it.

The company seems to have hit its mark.  With over $200m in sales and more than 40 stores, some of which are said to approach a whopping $2000 in sales per square foot (reportedly four times the industry average), Aritzia is one of the top performing retail chains around. The company’s recent U.S expansion has been fueled in part by an injection of capital from Berkshire Partners, the Boston-based private equity firm which took a majority stake in the business in late 2005.

Reached at his Boston office by email, Josh Lutzker, a Principal at Berkshire Partners explains: “[we] invested in Aritzia because of the strength of the management team, led by Brian Hill, and because of Aritzia’s outstanding position in the market. Aritzia’s connection with its consumers, the strength of its product design and its excellence in store design and retail operations have all led to very strong retail economics and a unique opportunity for growth.”

As Aritzia celebrates its 25th anniversary and Vancouver enters the global spotlight of the 2010 Winter Olympics, I sat down with Brian Hill at the company’s headquarters in the city’s industrial East side to learn about the retail model that has everybody talking.

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Sarah Curran, Founder and CEO, my-wardrobe.com

LONDON, United Kingdom — The Business of Fashion can exclusively reveal that my-wardrobe.com, the London-based fashion e-tailer positioned at a mid-level pricepoint between Net-a-Porter.com on the high-end and Asos.com on the low-end, has just closed its second round of investment.

My-wardrobe continues to grow at a rapid pace, having achieved an extremely healthy 169 percent jump in sales in its third year, growing from £1.56m in sales in 2008 to £4.23m in the fiscal year ending March 2009.

It may not be surprising then that a group of high-net worth investors have injected an undisclosed sum of money to further the site’s expansion into menswear and international markets, amongst other initiatives. Perhaps as a sign of the times, the new funding valued shares at the same price as in the first round, as opposed to achieving a higher share price as would have normally been the case in the past. That said, the investment opportunity was heavily over-subscribed, demonstrating the market’s continuing belief in the online fashion retail segment.

It’s been a busy few months for my-wardrobe’s CEO Sarah Curran, who has also just brought in a new Chairman, Jean-Marc Bouhelier and concluded a first-ever shop-in-shop concession deal with BCBC Max Azria, but I caught up with her quickly after our panel discussion in Vienna to bring you this BoF exclusive.

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Greg Furman, Founder and Chairman, Luxury Marketing Council

NEW YORK, United States — As the recession wears on, luxury companies are beginning to realise they will have to do more than cut costs in order to survive this downturn. Indeed, for many brands, a fundamental repositioning and reevaluation of their long-standing strategies may be in order.

In this kind of environment, many luxury executives turn to the New York-based Luxury Marketing Council, where their membership enables them to share in the insights and learnings of more than 800 peers and colleagues from across the sector, representing companies as diverse as Bergdorf Goodman, The Carlyle Hotel, and Steinway & Sons, the legendary piano manufacturer. The Council’s reach has also grown in recent years to include international chapters in London and Sao Paolo.

I caught up with the Council’s CEO Greg Furman via e-mail to get his take on the rapidly changing economic and consumer environment, and the implication for luxury brands everywhere.

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