First Person | Philip Crangi says jewellery design was his perfect business opportunity

First Person | New York

NEW YORK, United States — “I want to own this whole thing,” Philip Crangi says of his popular jewellery brand. “I’d rather own 100 percent of something small that 10 percent of something huge.” The 2008 CFDA Swarovski Award for Accessories winner — whose jewellery is both intensely popular with editors and intensely personal to those who wear it — takes as much pride in forging his business as he does each golden amulet. “It’s more than a job,” he says. “It’s my baby. I want control over it. I believe in control.” Growing up in Boca Raton, Florida, Crangi developed a fascination with the talismanic nature of jewellery, charms and trinkets. “I wanted to find the buried treasure in…

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First Person | Viktor & Rolf say Flowerbomb was their modern day business weapon

First Person | Intelligence | New York

Viktor and Rolf | Photo: Philip Riches

NEW YORK, United States — “We had big ambitions,” says Viktor Horsting on creating fashion house Viktor & Rolf with Rolf Snoeren. “From the very beginning we wanted to start very high,” he says, indicating the absolute apogee of couture elegance: “Start at the top, and everything else would fall into place after that. It was a very emotional ambition, not just in terms of the size of the business or wanting to be like a certain

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In Ethical Fashion, Desirability is Sustainability

London | New York

NEW YORK, United States — Over the past ten years, the eco-fashion movement has been gathering steam. Following the lead of pioneering brands like Stella McCartney and NOIR, which were founded on the basis of ethical principles near the turn of the millennium, there are now entire fashion exhibitions, forums and blogs all focused on so-called sustainable fashion. Ethical fashion is also high on the agenda of the major luxury goods groups. In April 2009, having already partnered with Stella McCartney to launch her eponymous label, PPR announced its support of HOME, an environmental call-to-action by filmmaker Yann Arthus-Bertrand. François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer, said at the time that PPR’s support aimed to use “images and commentary to…

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Company of We | Building an Online Fashion Business

International | New York

Company of We, S/S 2010 | Source: Company of We

NEW YORK, United States — Today, building a strong online sales channel is often vital to the success of an emerging fashion business. But because the task can seem daunting, many young designers delay developing their own e-commerce sites, and instead outsource their internet sales to online retailers, losing a significant share of full retail margin that can be earned when selling directly to the end consumer. While it’s almost

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First Person | Pamela Love

First Person | New York

Pamela Love | Courtesy of Pamela Love

First Person, a new series on BoF, brings you business stories and lessons from real fashion entrepreneurs. First up, cult jewellery designer, Pamela Love. NEW YORK, United States — For the past three years Brooklyn-born jewellery designer Pamela Love has set about crafting her business in the same way she shapes the hand-hewn gothic accessories she sells. “Just like I learn new techniques for making jewellery as I go along,” she

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