London Fashion Week | Burberry’s Unforgettable Fashion Frisson

LONDON, United Kingdom — In February of 2004, writing about London Fashion Week in the Guardian newspaper, Charlie Porter declared: "It's that old London fashion week conundrum all over again — wondering what's the point, and failing to find an answer." A month earlier, Porter said that London Fashion Week was in crisis mode. Looking back, it's easy to understand Porter's lack of optimism. That February, London hosted 40 shows in a 5-day schedule. This was a decline from 50 shows in September of 2003. Style.com only reviewed 13 of the on-schedule shows in London, or about 33 percent. As a proxy for quality, this ratio did not bode well for London's position amongst the major fashion capitals. Major editors…

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The Verdict | Gap’s 1969 Premium Jeans

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Introducing the Gap’s new 1969 Denim VANCOUVER, Canada — Those of you in North America over the past week can’t have missed the media bombardment from the Gap, the ailing San Francisco-based mass fashion retailer, as it announced the launch of its new 1969 premium denim range, with six new fits for women and seven new fits for men. Huge full-page ads featuring Anja Rubik appeared in the Thursday Styles section of the

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Vote for The Business of Fashion in the Dazed Digital RAW Blog Awards

LONDON, United Kingdom — As we enter the dog days of August, The Business of Fashion is going to take a holiday. But before we take our little sabbatical, we have a request for you, our loyal readers. We were delighted to learn last week that BoF has been shortlisted for the first Dazed Digital RAW Blog Awards, in the fashion category. The awards have now been opened to a public vote — and the competition is fierce. We are honoured

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BoF Recommends | The September Issue

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LONDON, United Kingdom — Bootlegged copies of The September Issue have been circulating amongst fashion insiders in London. The new 90 minute documentary featuring Anna Wintour of American Vogue is not due to hit U.S. and U.K. theatres until later this Summer, but it is already providing much fodder for industry conversations over mid-Summer cocktails and pre-collection appointments. The film revolves around the development,

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Michael Jackson | What was his most stylish moment?

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LOS ANGELES, United States — Today the world is talking about Michael Jackson’s inimitable and legendary contribution to global pop music. But what about his contribution to fashion and what was Jackson’s most stylish moment? There’s plenty to choose from. This was the man, of course, with the sequined glove, military-inspired uniforms (think Balmain, without the Pagoda shoulder), shredded jeans, distressed

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The Business of Fashion | Community Survey

[caption id="attachment_4268" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="The Business of Fashion Community"][/caption] LONDON, United Kingdom — It's that time again where we turn to you and ask for your input in our bi-annual community survey on how to grow and develop The Business of Fashion. Our progress in recent months has been exciting and promising and we want to make sure we continue to provoke the discussion and debate at the intersection of fashion, business and new media — but we need your help! We have plenty of new ideas on how push the conversation forward, which we would like to test with you, and we'd like to learn more about you to enable us to find sponsors and partners who are interested…

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Friday Column | Shockvertising

Tom Ford ad

LONDON, United Kingdom — Here’s a depressing sign of things to come. According to Luxury Briefing, Trendhunter has deemed “Shockvertising” a key trend for 2009. What’s Shockvertising? Advertising that borders on porn. Yes, you can blame the credit crunch. If consumers won’t be lured be grace and beauty, well let’s give them smut and see if that works. And it could work. Just look at the success

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A Tale of Value and Three Pairs of Shoes

Dunhill Shoes

LONDON, United Kingdom — There’s been quite a lot of talk about value lately. But what does value really mean, and how are different consumers evaluating their purchases? Dunhill recently held a private sale in a discrete space in a Mayfair alley with some deeply discounted prices. It’s something many luxury companies have been doing to help shift stockpiles of their products in a way that doesn’t damage the

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Valentino | Still in the spotlight

NEW YORK, United States — While he has technically left his eponymous house, Valentino Garavani has certainly not left the public eye. Following his departure from Valentino Group, the iconic Italian designer received the Légion d'honneur in France, celebrated 45 years in fashion in an over-the-top multi-day extravaganza in Rome, and premiered a feature-length documentary, Valentino: The Last Emperor directed by Matt Tyrnaur, at important international film festivals in Venice and Toronto. Then in March, at a star-studded soiree in New York, Mr. Valentino was feted by friends like Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow, at a launch event for the film and conducted several television interviews, including ones with Oprah and this one with Charlie Rose (with his business partner Giancarlo…

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Friday Column | Credit Crunch Fashion

PARIS, France — Sitting through the Paris collections, I was struck by how unappealing much of it seemed. I find that the editors who attend shows season after season get caught up in analysing a brand in terms of its recent history. Has it moved on, they ask? Where is it going? The ultimate compliment they pay is: “I’d wear that.” Now that I’m slightly removed from the day-to-day of it all, I tend to sit

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Paris Fashion Week | Cavalli’s Clash with the Zeitgeist

Cavalli insignia projected on new flagship, Paris | Source: BoF

PARIS, France — On Saturday night, at the grand opening fete for Roberto Cavalli’s new Paris flagship on ritzy rue St Honoré, they were giving out large, plastic-coated goodie bags in the bold, signature leopard print for which Mr. Cavalli has become known over the years. Most recently, he used this to great success in his collaboration with H&M, which effectively introduced the Cavalli brand and aesthetic to a whole new

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Friday Column | A Tale of Three Revivals

The Last Balmain, courtesy of Style.com

PARIS, France — I’m in Paris for the collections, after sitting last season out. It’s funny the way everything looks different when you’re actually here. Take Balmain, for instance. I assumed, from what I read in the press after last season’s showing by designer Christophe Decarnin, that it was the collection du jour; the one that everyone adored, adored, adored. It turns out that well, this is not really

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Friday Column | Failure to re-launch?

Matteo Marzotto, courtesy of The Sartorialist

LONDON, United Kingdom — The recent news that Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni have bought the Vionnet brand reminded me of the old saying about second marriages: a triumph of hope over experience. Arnaud de Lummen has already had a hand at reviving Vionnet, the classic couture brand, over the past few years, but has now moved on to other projects. (You can read all about it in BoF’s exclusive interview with de Lummen.)

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