Friday Column | A Tale of Three Revivals

The Last Balmain, courtesy of Style.com

PARIS, France — I’m in Paris for the collections, after sitting last season out. It’s funny the way everything looks different when you’re actually here. Take Balmain, for instance. I assumed, from what I read in the press after last season’s showing by designer Christophe Decarnin, that it was the collection du jour; the one that everyone adored, adored, adored. It turns out that well, this is not really

…Continue Reading

Friday Column | Failure to re-launch?

Matteo Marzotto, courtesy of The Sartorialist

LONDON, United Kingdom — The recent news that Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni have bought the Vionnet brand reminded me of the old saying about second marriages: a triumph of hope over experience. Arnaud de Lummen has already had a hand at reviving Vionnet, the classic couture brand, over the past few years, but has now moved on to other projects. (You can read all about it in BoF’s exclusive interview with de Lummen.)

…Continue Reading

London Fashion Week | Missing shoppers, bad bears, and good frocks

Four Bad Bears, courtesy of DShort.com

LONDON, United Kingdom — Last night, at a cocktail party to celebrate the opening of the Azzaro pop-up store on London’s Mount Street, I bumped into Robert Bensoussan, the highly-regarded former CEO of Jimmy Choo. The place was rammed with guests. Economic armageddon was nowhere in sight. But, more often than not, came up talk of the economy. Bensoussan told me he had been in New York visiting stores and had never seen so

…Continue Reading

Inside the Studio | Giles Deacon | Chapter III

http://www.youtube.com/v/5LqnTUifmWg&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param

“The Surprise of Collaboration…” Not everyone thinks of fashion designers as business people, but fashion ultimately requires designers, especially independent designers like Giles Deacon, to stay in touch with the realities of managing a business every day. In the third and final chapter of Giles’ story, we learn how collaborations with major partners like New Look, as well as creatives like LOVE

…Continue Reading

Emerging Designers | Rad Hourani’s Razor Focus

Rad Hourani Spring/Summer 2009, courtesy of Rad Hourani

MONTRÉAL, Canada – It’s been a year since BoF last spoke with stylist-turned-designer Rad Hourani. Since then, his collection has been taken on by fashion-forward boutiques Joyce and IT in China, Cache in Bulgaria, Seven Boutique in New York, and Canada’s Holt Renfrew and Reborn. All the while Hourani has continued to use photography and film to express his razor-focused personal aesthetic, built around the colour

…Continue Reading

Inside the Studio | Giles Deacon | Chapter II

"A Designer Who Has Always Drawn…" Giles Deacon began drawing at the age of three, so it's not surprising that illustration forms a fundamental part of his creative process. The second chapter of Giles' story uncovers the organised randomness behind Giles' arresting design concoctions, often starting with a sketch. He explains how designs like the now iconic Pacman dress from Spring/Summer 2009 and the much talked-about Bambi dress from Spring/Summer 2008, which landed on the front cover of the New York Times, were conceived and developed. RSS and email subscribers, click here to watch the video. Inside the Studio | Giles Deacon was generously supported by Swarovski

…Continue Reading

Giles Deacon | A Designer Who Has Always Drawn

Giles Deacon for Smythson

LONDON, United Kingdom — When Giles Deacon developed a set of chic correspondence cards, each with a signature Giles sketch, in collaboration with Smythson earlier this year, the first batch sold out in just one day — on both sides of the Atlantic. For all you hard core Giles fans, the cards appear to have been re-ordered and are now available for sale again. Even better, here at BoF we were lucky to have had a special sketch from

…Continue Reading

Friday Column | Business vs. Fashion?

LONDON, United Kingdom — I just finished reading the interview with Jane Rapley, the Head of College at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in this month’s Luxury Briefing, and I couldn’t help but think that for a school that prides itself on being progressive, she sounded behind-the-times when it comes to the way the industry works and what her students need to thrive in it. Take for instance her answer to the

…Continue Reading

Inside the Studio | Giles Deacon | Chapter I

http://www.youtube.com/v/zYLv-028b8I&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param

“Unstructured exploration…” In the years before he became an overnight household name in the United Kingdom, when Linda Evangelista walked down his runway for free, Giles Deacon spent more than 10 years exploring — not the world, but rather the people and environment in which he lived. The first chapter of Giles’ story explains how he came to be a fashion designer and launch his own label, GILES. It reveals

…Continue Reading

Friday Column | Russians, Recession and Really, Really Expensive Jeans

Balmain jeans | Source: Courtesy Rex Features

LONDON, United Kingdom — If one wanted an indication that nothing is ever going to be the way it was in luxury, this was the week to watch. Forget about Karl Lagerfeld’s paper accessories at the Chanel haute couture show (a gimmick if there ever were one.) Consider instead the dichotomy of two of the most interesting items in this week’s fashion news. First, that Tom Ford is bringing out jeans with a $990 price tag in the midst of

…Continue Reading

Friday Column | The Colour of Fashion

Michelle Obama in Isabel Toledo, courtesy JIM WATSON/AFP/Getty Images

LONDON, United Kingdom — It was almost old times in fashion this week. First, even better than the Oscars, came the inauguration outfits. Vogue.co.uk even put up a slide show of what people were wearing on the big night. I can’t remember that happening when George Bush was elected, and then subsequently re-elected. Michelle Obama made some inspired choices. Isabel Toledo, who made the green beaded dress and coat the new first lady

…Continue Reading

Luxury Outlook | Richemont reels

ZURICH, Switzerland — “Demand for luxury goods…has fallen dramatically and Richemont is currently facing the toughest market conditions since its formation 20 years ago…we see no cause for optimism. We must assume that there will be no significant recovery in the foreseeable future and plan accordingly to cope with this situation.” With those ominous words in its trading update on Monday, Richemont provided the first

…Continue Reading