One of the most forward-thinking fashion designers in the world, Nicolas Ghesquière took the reins as the new artistic director of women’s collections at Louis Vuitton, following the exit of American designer Marc Jacobs. Ghesquière will show his first collection for the house in March.
It's thought that the appointment of Ghesquière will help re-energise and re-elevate Louis Vuitton’s fashion offering, restoring the brand's high luxury cachet, which has suffered in recent seasons.
Prior to joining Vuitton, Ghesquière spent a total of 15 years at Balenciaga, a once ailing womenswear house which he transformed into one of the most forward-thinking luxury brands in the world (and the most exclusive and sought-after ticket at Paris Fashion Week) with his complex vision, sculptural tailoring and use of ultra-modern fabrics.
Raised in the small town of Loudun in western France, Ghesquière announced at the age of 12 that he wanted to be a designer, though he admits this was partly from an adolescent desire to do something different from his parents and to alleviate boredom. At 14, he got an internship with French designer agnès b for which he was paid in clothes.
After completing his studies, Nicolas worked from 1990 to 1992 as an assistant to designer Jean-Paul Gaultier. He then worked at Pôles, designing their knitwear line followed by a series of assignments with different companies including the Italian house of Callaghan. Prior to his appointment as Balenciaga’s creative director, a position left vacant following the dismissal of his Belgian predecessor Josephus Thimister, Ghesquière designed funeral clothes for the brand under a license for the Japan market.
In 2001, the same year that Ghesquière was named Womenswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA, the Gucci Group bought Balenciaga, a move that Ghesquière welcomed. “It is a happy relationship,” he said at the time. “It has worked because they wanted me to explain what I wanted to do with Balenciaga, not the other way around.”
But things later soured with Gucci Group’s owners PPR (now Kering) and, in November 2012, Ghesquière and PPR parted ways in what was an acrimonious separation.