Selfridges’ big deal, Aquascutum lifeline, Betting big on India, Burberry taps into China, McQueen’s bow

Aquascutum Autumn Winter 2010 | Source: Selectism

Selfridges Group buys Ogilvy (The Province) “Toronto’s billionaire Weston family has bought Montreal’s prestigious Ogilvy department store, adding to its stable of high-end retail offerings after the purchase of Dutch luxury institution de Bijenkorf eight months ago… The back-room deal comes as a bit of a surprise because the previous ownership group had held Ogilvy for barely a year.” Aquascutum secures financial lifeline

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Carine Roitfeld’s return, Dresses on trend, UK online retail up, Kanye’s consultant, Savage Beauty milestone

Mulberry Autumn Winter 2011 photographed by Tim Walker | Source: Mulberry

Carine Roitfeld’s stylish tribute to Elizabeth Taylor (Telegraph) “Fans of Carine Roitfeld who have been suffering from withdrawal symptoms since the ultra-chic former Vogue Paris editor vacated her post… Won’t have to wait much longer to get their latest fix… Roitfeld has reunited with her old partner… Mario Testino to style the entire September issue of V Magazine.” Keeping Cool, Fashionably (IHT) “Trends come and go, but

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Colin’s Column | Something Is Rotten in the State of Fashion

Chanel Couture | Source: The New York Times

LONDON, United Kingdom — Death and disgrace do not often darken the world of fashion. In the case of the first, a designer normally dies long after retirement and his demise is of only local interest. In the case of the second, it rarely happens and can usually be covered up by one means or another. But in the last eighteen months there have been two tragedies that can neither be covered up, nor ignored. They are, of course, the

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Cultural landmarks, Gender balance, Burberry’s global success, US focus on Europe, eBay’s liability for counterfeits

Hussein Chalayan | Source: Vogue Paris

Chalayan and McQueen exhibitions: cultural landmarks of the year (Telegraph) “It is the intellectual and imaginative stature of these two former peers – the fact that they drove fashion to reflect difficult realities and push the boundaries of technology – which make their shows a different kettle of fish from the usual lifeless way clothes appear in museums.” LVMH Pledges Gender Balance In Europe (Forbes)

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Brands push for shop-in-shops, Lion Capital rescues All Saints, Hearst and Apple deal, Gentle Burton, The F-factor

Kiton Concession at Saks Fifth Avenue | Source: Lushbling

Luxury Brands Stake Out New Department Store Turf (WSJ) “As the luxury market rebounds, powerful global brands including Gucci, Prada and Dior are starting to press for more control over the way their products are presented and sold in U.S. department stores. The goal is to chip away at the old sales model used for decades by American department stores and instead operate a store-within-a-store.” All Saints fashion

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Celebrating Savage Beauty, PPR to buy Volcom, Personalisation start-ups, Cardin ready to sell, Trendspotting business

Savage Beauty, the exhibition | Source: Courtesy

Alexander McQueen in All His Dark Glory (IHT) “The exhibition, which celebrates Mr. McQueen’s wild, unfettered and dark imagination: gothic Victoriana, dresses tufted with blood-red feathers, decorated with dying flowers or rattling with clamshells. The weird, wonderful accessories alone send a tingle down the spine.” PPR to buy Volcom for $607.5 million (Los Angeles Times) “Richard Woolcott, Volcom’s chief

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McQueen’s royal challenge, Telling and selling, Barneys’ online expansion, Luxottica’s bright spot, Nicola Bulgari talks

Royal Wedding Official Photo | Source: Royal Wedding

The Business Impact of the Royal Wedding (WWD) “Dressing Catherine Middleton for the royal wedding has catapulted the house of Alexander McQueen from niche designer business into household name, giving management the delicate task of balancing its exclusive reputation with the wider commercial potential now within its grasp.” Websites blur line between telling and selling (FT) “A new wave of US e-commerce

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Colin’s Column | Are changes to fashion education crippling innovation in the world’s creative capital?

LONDON, United Kingdom — Design is generally about function leading form in a problem-solving exercise that almost always starts with a sense of discontent with what is generally available and a strong determination to make it better and even change radically a template that might have been used for many years. The result, in the hands of the right practitioner, is a completely new solution to the problem, a solution that works for

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Fast fashion falters, Zappos delivers happiness, Arnault does DC, McQueen’s haunting world, Lunch with Pinault

Tony Hsieh | Source: Inc.

Fast fashion: Is the party over? (Telegraph) “Following on from H&M’s shock results in the final quarter of 2010 which saw profits fall 11 per cent, fashion comparison website Stylecompare.co.uk has today reported that year-on-year sales of ‘low end’ retailers fell by 21 per cent, as consumers flock to ‘mid range’ and eco brands for their fashion fixes.” Why Is This Man Smiling? (NY

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US malls’ occupancy crisis, Japan quake impact, Ad pages up, McQueen’s Savage Beauty, Enigmatic blog July Stars

Anna Dello Russo | Source: Industrie

Malls Face Surge in Vacancies (WSJ) “Even as the economy picks up steam, many of the nation’s malls and shopping centers are suffering a hangover due to changing consumer habits and the fallout from a massive building boom. Mall vacancies hit their highest level in at least 11 years in the first quarter… In the top 80 U.S. markets, the average vacancy rate was 9.1%, up from 8.7%.” Japanese retailers give

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Fire and Ice, Leather supply squeeze, Independent jewellers to struggle, D&G line to fold, Pressure cooker

L-R Alexander McQueen, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Style.com

Chanel provides the fire, McQueen the ice (Independent) “The mood in fashion is changing. The sight of a waif-like female stepping out in a heavily embellished, barely-there cocktail dress now seems dated. Lagerfeld’s status as the last of the great, traditionally trained couturiers is undisputed. He is also enough of a modernist, however, to respond to the zeitgeist and his reaction made for impressive viewing.”

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Mary Katrantzou’s digital beauty, A Purple world, Fashion East spawns Lulu & Co, Macy’s Net jumps, McQueen’s spell

Mary Katrantzou Autumn/Winter 2011 Runway | Source: IHT

‘English,’ With Irony (IHT) “Yet although there have been the usual glancing references to tweed, cable knits, plaids and country clothes, the real story lies with a young, techno-savvy generation. The prints that grow more sophisticated each season are light-years from the classic patterns of roses ’round the door. But they are only a click away from a student with a smartphone and digital skills.” Olivier

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On the straight and narrow, Buying runway looks, Puma feels the pinch, Singer talks T, Anna Wintour on McQueen

L-R Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Theyskens’ Theory | Source: Style.com

On the Straight and Narrow (IHT) “It is back to the straight and narrow in New York Fashion Week. No more loose and sloppy casual clothes, easy sportswear or girlish frills. Women — grown-up women — are being asked to smarten up.” Who Buys These Clothes? They Do (WSJ) “Many of the runway styles are actually purchased by a small group of customers, not all of them from the isle of Manhattan. And unlike celebrities

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