Left: Mary Katrantzou’s ‘Jewel Tree’ dress, Right: A look from Christopher Raeburn S/S 2012 | Source: Style.com

LONDON, United Kingdom — Luxury casualwear and demi-couture don’t appear to have much in common. You can’t get much further from a hand-embellished crystal crinoline dress than a silk jersey t-shirt or a sporty windbreaker. But in recent seasons, many of fashion’s brightest young talents have been gravitating towards one extreme or the other. Labels like Alexander Wang, The Row and Christopher Raeburn have struck a chord with their easy, upscale styles, while the likes of Mary Katrantzou, David Koma, Rodarte and Jason Wu have attracted a healthy stream of high-end clientele with hand-worked looks that border on couture.

“This gravitating to extremes is a reflection on the way that today’s luxury-wearing women are dressing,” said Ruth Runberg, buying director at Browns, the influential London-based fashion boutique. “Very few are still living every hour of every day in a designer skirtsuit with matching heels and handbag — it is simply too formal and too stiff to be modern,” she continued. “While this client may still demand from designers the more special, high-design pieces for certain times, she also has a need for clothes to wear when she doesn’t need to be ‘dressed.’”

The rise of the dressed-down day-to-day look is also a clear response to the troubled economy. “When the recession hit, we saw demand grow exponentially for designers offering this cooler, more casual luxury look — The Row, Alexander Wang, ACNE,” said Runberg. “Generally, very formal dressing felt appropriate or tasteful at fewer and fewer occasions in the wake of the financial crisis.” But for those occasions when women do need a fancy frock, they are increasingly requesting only the most exquisite, intricate pieces, she explained. “In response to this shift in demand, young designers have gone the direction of offering their clients either very special demi-couture or luxury casualwear.”

When London-based Mary Katrantzou — 2011 winner of the British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent in Womenswear — first introduced her printed lampshade skirts for Spring/Summer 2011, pieces which required hours, and sometimes days, of handwork to shape their wired frames and ensure their signature digital designs were perfectly symmetrical, she did it merely to push herself and her team. “At that stage, it was just a challenge to try and build a showpiece in our collection that really translated the theme of the season. But [these demi-couture pieces became] something that was wanted not only by people who buy privately, but also by our stores,” said Katrantzou.

Indeed, the designer sold 18 units of her £8,300 Fall 2011 Jewel Tree dress, an appliqué velvet frock, embellished with enamel flowers, lace and Swarovski crystals, that took so much work that it actually made Katrantzou’s machinist cry. “I think the customer is inundated with so many different options. They have so many things to choose from but if women who collect fashion don’t see something that really strikes them as unique, they don’t bother anymore,” explained Katrantzou. “It’s a new way of buying.”

“Customers are looking for something special,” concurs London-based designer David Koma, whose figure-flattering hand-embroidered frocks can cost up to £8000 and take up to two weeks to complete. “Now, you can buy almost anything at any price. There’s a huge market for commercial brands so I feel if [customers] are buying something expensive and buying something special, there should be a lot of handwork and craftsmanship involved to make them feel that their money is well spent.”

The customer’s desire for uniqueness and quality craftsmanship is reflected in the rise of luxury sportswear, as well. “There was a period where everything began to get very casual and I think many designers, even if they were designing sportswear, began to take a more refined approach to what they were offering. Not by changing the genre of sportswear entirely, but by offering luxe details or evening fabrics for daywear,” Daniella Vitale, chief merchant and executive vice president of Barneys New York, told BoF.

“I think there’s certainly evidence that in tough economic times, people tend to buy more unique things. They want pieces that are very special,” said luxury sportswear designer Christopher Raeburn, 2011 winner of the British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent in Menswear. “It’s very important that our garments have functionality, but our clients are really looking for something with high quality fabrics, as well as workmanship,” he added. “We’re very keen on the best levels of production that we can find,” said Raeburn, who makes his colourful anoraks crafted from reappropriated military materials and smartly-trimmed wool dress coats in England. Even his new range of jersey t-shirt dresses, featuring intricate prints and pockets, are made from English materials.

“The Barneys customer is looking for rare, exclusive product that has a strong price value and fits into their lifestyle,” said Vitale. “Frivolity is not in their vocabulary, which does not mean they will not spend money or pay a high price for something; it means they actually intend to wear it — more than once. And they want pieces that not everyone has.”

Indeed, although they inhabit opposite ends of the ready-to-wear spectrum, demi-couture and luxury sportswear share commonalities that are completely in sync with today’s luxury consumer: they both deliver high quality as well as high perceived value, either by virtue of being very special, almost one of a kind, or by being highly functional and enabling repeat usage over time.

Katharine K. Zarrella is a freelance fashion journalist.

Barneys' new team photographed by Jason Schmidt | Source: NY Magazine

Barneys’ Fall Line (NY Magazine)
“Like many of its clients, Barneys has had its ups, its downs, and its great many in-betweens, and it is, at right this very moment, engaged in that most New York of pursuits: a reinvention… Last summer, Mark Lee was hired as Barneys’ new CEO. His reputation is as golden as it gets in the fashion world: He’s spent his career in Europe occupying high-level positions at important fashion houses—­Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, and, most recently, Gucci.”

On the Phone: M-Commerce Is the Word (WWD)
“… Along comes m-commerce, capturing sales on the go. It’s quickly becoming a digital priority for the fashion industry, and accessories are rising as a hot category… Net-a-Porter’s accessories buying manager, Sasha Sarokin, reports that with m-commerce, more ‘everyday’ and ‘wear-now’ accessories, like friendship bracelets or small pendant necklaces, are big sellers. Higher-ticket items sell as well, particularly those that pack a strong photographic punch.”

Saks says market turmoil warrants caution (Reuters)
“Luxury department store operator Saks Inc forecast same-store sales growth and better margins for the rest of the year even as the volatile financial markets give it reason to be cautious about fall sales.Shares were down 28 cents, or 3.1 percent, at $8.79 in morning trading on the New York Stock Exchange. Stock market volatility has made the company more careful about expenses and how much inventory to carry to be prepared in the event shoppers cut back.”

J. Crew finally treks to Canada (Calgary Herald)
“After being sought out for years by Canadians as a favoured cross-border shopping destination, J. Crew is set to open its first set of fashionable doors in Canada in less than a week…J. Crew’s marketing, which is handled internally, has evolved over the years from a catalogue-driven business into an evolving social-media force.”

RISE: Lisoka (Dazed Digital)
“Lisoka is the creation of Swedish menswear designer Lisa Våglund. Having graduated with a Master’s degree from the prestigious Danish Design School in Copenhagen, she went on to start her own fashion line of clothes with an eco-consciousness… A dream would be to work for a brand like Raf Simons or Kris Van Assche.”

Royal Wedding Official Photo | Source: Royal Wedding

The Business Impact of the Royal Wedding (WWD)
“Dressing Catherine Middleton for the royal wedding has catapulted the house of Alexander McQueen from niche designer business into household name, giving management the delicate task of balancing its exclusive reputation with the wider commercial potential now within its grasp.”

Websites blur line between telling and selling (FT)
“A new wave of US e-commerce companies with increasingly editorial leanings is blurring the line between content and commerce, and causing publishers to reassess their own relationships with commercialism.”

Barneys New York tests foreign waters with ecommerce expansion (Luxury Daily)
“Department store Barneys New York is boosting its ecommerce line of attack by offering online shopping and shipping to approximately 90 countries… Although this will undoubtedly move product and rocket sales for the brand, there are still some major facets to consider when expanding worldwide.”

Luxottica sees bright 2011 after strong Q1 (Reuters)
“Luxottica the world’s largest premium eyewear group, is looking to a positive 2011 after a strong start to the year in North America and key emerging markets, echoing optimism among luxury peers.”

20 Odd Questions: Nicola Bulgari (WSJ)
“Despite the changes ahead for the 127-year-old firm, Mr. Bulgari insists the brand’s DNA will remain the same. ‘Our family is not going anywhere… There is a uniqueness and continuity of design that guides everything we do—from jewelry and watches to fragrance and apparel.’”

Thierry Mugler Autumn/Winter 2011 show | Source: Youtube

At Mugler, Genius and Its Limits (NY Times)
“Mr. Formichetti’s show was not a work of genius, but it was a show about genius in the present moment — its limits, its futility. If Paris couture is about history, craft and masters, the new Mugler is about nonspecialists, quick communication and downgrading the role of technique and craft, at least in the heavy, earnest sense.”

Carine’s Next Step (Vogue UK)
“Carine Roitfeld has finally confirmed her next move post-French Vogue – the former editor is teaming up with Barneys to become the store’s guest editor and stylist for autumn/winter 2011-12. Roitfeld will style and edit the American store’s advertising campaign (photographed by Mario Sorrenti), catalogue, newsletters, as well as the Madison Avenue windows.”

Dolce and Gabbana May Face a Criminal Trial (NY Times)
“Accused of defrauding the Italian revenue agency and failing to pay taxes on more than $1 billion in income, they are expected to be told… whether prosecutors have gathered enough evidence to warrant a criminal trial. So far, the case has generated remarkably little fanfare in Italy, a country where tax evasion is regarded by many people, including some in the fashion world, as a national sport.”

A Tribute to Elizabeth Taylor: Fashion Icon (The Cut)
“When it came to style, Elizabeth Taylor was fearless. The diamonds, the hair, the cleavage: She rocked it out everywhere she went. In her younger days, she favored plunging necklines with straps poised to slip off her shoulders, her hair like a dark cloud around her thickly made-up eyes.”

F(AA)shion Dialogues (Dazed Digital)
“In this search for fresh approaches some fashion designers developed collaborations with architects… Trying to explore the new possibilities offered by fashion and architecture, the Architectural Association School launched the ‘F(AA)shion’ workshop, an intensive design-based programme of lectures.”

McQ video, posted on Vimeo, shared on Tumblr | Source: McQ

Why Fashion’s Top Brands Are Flocking to Tumblr (Mashable)
“According to Tumblr… approximately 180 of the top 1,000 Tumblr blogs are fashion-related. And fashion-related Tumblr posts are reblogged on a much greater scale than general Tumblr posts… suggesting that ‘there’s a huge capacity for fashion content to go viral on Tumblr.’”

Manish Arora Confirmed as Paco Rabanne Creative Director (Fashionologie)
“Manish Arora is the new creative director of Paco Rabanne, and will show his first collection for the label in October during Paris Fashion Week — for Spring 2012. He will also continue his colorful signature collection, which is also shown in Paris but sells mostly in his native India.”

Barneys’ New Chief Explains Those Changes (On the Runway)
“Mr. Lee stressed that his mission for the luxury retailer was to make it surprising and dynamic. ‘But,’ he added, ‘there’s never going to be a day when we say ‘ta-da’ and drop the curtain.’ The changes will be a work-in-progress over the next few years, he said.”

Arnault offers olive branch to Hermès (Reuters)
“Arnault struck a conciliatory note on Friday, arguing LVMH was best positioned to ensure the long-term survival of Hermès’ culture and business. ‘We can bring them a number of advantages both strategically and operationally without anything in return other than our presence as a shareholder.’”

Lunch with Natalie Massenet (FT)
“Net-a-Porter looks a lot like a glossy online fashion magazine but Mr Porter is largely black and white; more tabloid in tone; more vertically oriented; and features real men, role models who can also be style models, such as actor Steve McQueen and hotelier Andre Balazs, as well as lists of “essentials” every man needs.”

Indochino Bespoke Suit | Source: Gear Patrol

Why Dressing Well Is Costing More (WSJ)
“The culprit is the rising price of fabric. Cotton prices climbed a record 91% in 2010, and the price of crossbred wool hit a 14-year high in October, up 50% over 15 months… But higher material costs are only part of the story: Increasing demand caused by rising affluence is another.”

New Experience Economy to Drive China Luxury in 2011 (Red Luxury)
“Consumer demand for luxury experiences generally lagged the demand for luxury goods, but the time line in China is much speedier. Luxury demand for experiences is expected to occur almost simultaneously with that of luxury goods.”

An Editor Goes to Barneys, but Not to Shop (On the Runway)
“Dennis Freedman, the former creative director of W, has a new job: creative director of Barneys New York. As part of the continuing changes made by Mark Lee, the retailer’s new chief executive, Mr. Freedman will be responsible for overall creative direction of the store.”

Fashion Blogger Snags next H&M Collaboration (Financial Times)
“After the much-publicised sell-out success of their pre-xmas collaboration with Lanvin, high street megalith H&M has announced their next partner: Elin Kling, a Swedish fashion blogger and stylist. The bloggers have moved from commentators to creators.”

Outsider Art Finds Its Place in Fashion (IHT)
“The Museum of Everything’s exhibition of artifacts from historic fun fairs, old amusement arcades and folk art using taxidermy to create surreal scenes of human domestic life is the backdrop of Missoni’s latest fashion campaign.”

L'Wren Scott at Barneys | Source: Barneys

Will Top Firings Change Barneys’ Cool? (On the Runway)
“Increasing Barneys’ profitability was a prime objective… The recession forced retailers to become leaner and more competitive, in particular with online sales, and that urgency will be critical to Barneys’ cool.”

Moncler fights against fakes (Fashion United)
“The Italian Fashion Chamber is joining Moncler and also stepping up against fakes… fighting the collateral damages caused by the creation of a black market, which hits tax payers, companies, and puts jobs at risk.”

Gilt Groupe’s Full-Price Men’s Site Slated to Launch in July (NY Fashion)
“Gilt Groupe realizes that men, who approach shopping with the utmost effort to get in, get out, and get on with life rather than dig and dig for a great find to brag about later, will just as easily pay full prices as sale prices.”

Yoox to open new online stores in China in 2011 (Reuters)
“Italian online fashion retailer Yoox is planning to bring some of the most exclusive fashion brands to China next year, tapping into the demand for luxury goods of the world’s largest online population.”

Tom Ford’s catwalk pictures hit the web (Telegraph)
“Tickets were like gold dust and the anticipation sent shivers through New York Fashion Week in September. Tom Ford was back – but on his own terms. Mr Sexsational’s first women’s wear collection since leaving Gucii and Yves Saint Laurent was unveiled.”

Emanuel Ungaro fitting a model | Source: NY Times

The Fall of the House of Ungaro (NY Times)
“Ungaro was losing roughly $15 million a year, and [the Ferragamos] signaled to their bankers to look for a buyer. Abdullah was the only serious buyer who turned up. That was in 2005, and as you probably guessed, he had no experience in fashion.”

Barneys Appoints New CEO (Market Watch)
“Barneys New York, the luxury retailer, with the support of its shareholder Istithmar World, today announces the appointment of Mark Lee to the Company as Chief Executive Officer, effective September 1, 2010.”

Social Media Fashion Statements (Ad Week)
“Visit the sites of major fashion names like Louis Vuitton and Gucci and you’ll find pretty much the digital equivalent of Vogue: lots of glossy photos and little in the way of interaction.”

Levi’s Expands in China, With Western Fits (WSJ)
“The new Levi’s brand, called Denizen.. was — prior to the launch — reported by trade publications to be specifically designed for Chinese body types… [but] that’s not the case. Denizen is a global brand for men and women, and its tailoring… remains unchanged.”

Retiring CEO Burt Tansky Leaves a Legacy of Luxury (Dallas News)
“Burt Tansky discovered a customer who loved luxury in 1974…For the next three and a half decades, he never left her side… His 49-year retailing résumé includes serving as president of Saks Fifth Avenue and CEO of Bergdorf Goodman.”

Iodice at Sao Paulo Fashion Week | Source: SPFW

Brazil’s prosperity bursts forth on catwalk (AFP)
“Brazil kicked off Latin America’s premier fashion event, Sao Paulo Fashion Week, Wednesday, with parades showcasing its economic prosperity and optimism.”

S&P removes upscale Barney’s from CreditWatch (Business Week)
“Standard & Poor’s on Thursday affirmed its corporate credit rating on Barney’s New York and removed it from CreditWatch…The rating agency also lowered its issue-level rating to ‘CCC-’ from ‘CCC’ and revised its recovery rating to ’5′ from ’3′, saying the company’s value has diminished over the past few years.”

Model students rewarded at Graduate fashion week gala (Guardian)
“Rebecca Thomson, a 22-year-old graduate of the Manchester School of Art, claimed top prize in the gala show at Graduate fashion week last night for a collection that mixed hand-pleated details with jogging bottoms – a look the designer dubbed ‘casual couture’”

Why fashion on screen lacks style (Independent)
“As a film on Isabella Blow is planned, Geoffrey Macnab argues that haute couture and cinema are more likely to clash than complement.”

Designer from Nepal who cracked New York (AFP)
“The young Nepalese fashion designer Prabal Gurung has been courted by the world’s top style magazines and won plaudits for his creations from some of Hollywood’s best-known actresses.But it was not until Michelle Obama attended a function wearing a dress he designed that his parents, who live in the Nepalese capital Kathmandu, finally believed he had made it.”

Malcolm McLaren, pictured in June 1994 | Source: Times

Causing Outrage: Remembering Malcolm McLaren (NY Times)
“Malcolm McLaren… was never really into fashion, though we fashion writers loved to pick his brain. Mr. McLaren saw the big cultural picture of which fashion was a part, and he sensed the small vibrations long, long before they reached the mainstream.”

LVMH signs luxury hotel deal with Egypt’s Orascom (FT)
“LVMH, the luxury goods company, is to enter the five-star hotel management business, initially through a partnership with Egypt’s Orascom Development Holdings, to build two resorts in the Middle East.”

American Apparel scramble (Retail Week)
“The “rummage” Sale of one-off samples, vintage pieces and old stock at the Truman Brewery on Brick Lane drew more people than expected and scuffles broke out. The police temporarily stopped the Sale. Ten police officers were injured and three people were arrested on disorder charges.”

H&M Q1 pretax beats forecast, March sales strong (Reuters)
“Swedish fashion chain Hennes & Mauritz beat expectations for first-quarter profit on Thursday, offsetting economic weakness while strong March sales suggested a return to higher spending in the second quarter.”

The Future Of Fashion, Part Five: Julie Gilhart (Style.com)
“Julie Gilhart is fashion’s free spirit… But as the fashion director of Barneys New York, she’s a free spirit who guides the buying decisions of a multimillion-dollar, multicity luxury retailer.”