At Opposite Ends of the Fashion Spectrum, Demi-Couture and Luxury Sportswear Strike a Chord

Left: Mary Katrantzou’s ‘Jewel Tree’ dress, Right: A look from Christopher Raeburn S/S 2012 | Source: Style.com

LONDON, United Kingdom — Luxury casualwear and demi-couture don’t appear to have much in common. You can’t get much further from a hand-embellished crystal crinoline dress than a silk jersey t-shirt or a sporty windbreaker. But in recent seasons, many of fashion’s brightest young talents have been gravitating towards one extreme or the other. Labels like Alexander Wang, The Row and Christopher Raeburn have struck a chord with their

…Continue Reading

Barneys’ new team, M-commerce on the rise, Saks warns of market turmoil, J.Crew arrives in Canada, Lisoka

Barneys' new team photographed by Jason Schmidt | Source: NY Mag

Barneys’ Fall Line (NY Magazine) “Like many of its clients, Barneys has had its ups, its downs, and its great many in-betweens, and it is, at right this very moment, engaged in that most New York of pursuits: a reinvention… Last summer, Mark Lee was hired as Barneys’ new CEO. His reputation is as golden as it gets in the fashion world: He’s spent his career in Europe occupying high-level positions at important fashion

…Continue Reading

McQueen’s royal challenge, Telling and selling, Barneys’ online expansion, Luxottica’s bright spot, Nicola Bulgari talks

Royal Wedding Official Photo | Source: Royal Wedding

The Business Impact of the Royal Wedding (WWD) “Dressing Catherine Middleton for the royal wedding has catapulted the house of Alexander McQueen from niche designer business into household name, giving management the delicate task of balancing its exclusive reputation with the wider commercial potential now within its grasp.” Websites blur line between telling and selling (FT) “A new wave of US e-commerce

…Continue Reading

Formichetti’s brand of genius, Next step for Carine, D&G’s tax woes, Liz Taylor: Fashion icon, Architectural dialogue

At Mugler, Genius and Its Limits (NY Times) "Mr. Formichetti’s show was not a work of genius, but it was a show about genius in the present moment — its limits, its futility. If Paris couture is about history, craft and masters, the new Mugler is about nonspecialists, quick communication and downgrading the role of technique and craft, at least in the heavy, earnest sense." Carine's Next Step (Vogue UK) "Carine Roitfeld has finally confirmed her next move post-French Vogue - the former editor is teaming up with Barneys to become the store's guest editor and stylist for autumn/winter 2011-12. Roitfeld will style and edit the American store's advertising campaign (photographed by Mario Sorrenti), catalogue, newsletters, as well as the…

…Continue Reading

Fashion flocks to Tumblr, Arora at Paco Rabanne, Barneys’ talks change, Arnault’s olive branch, Lunch with Massenet

http://vimeo.com/17599877

http://vimeo.com/17599877 Why Fashion’s Top Brands Are Flocking to Tumblr (Mashable) “According to Tumblr… approximately 180 of the top 1,000 Tumblr blogs are fashion-related. And fashion-related Tumblr posts are reblogged on a much greater scale than general Tumblr posts… suggesting that ‘there’s a huge capacity for fashion content to go viral on Tumblr.'” Manish Arora Confirmed as Paco Rabanne

…Continue Reading

Bespoke inflation, Chinese seek experiences, Barneys’ latest hire, H&M and Elin, Missoni’s Museum of Everything

Indochino Bespoke Suit | Source: Gear Patrol

Why Dressing Well Is Costing More (WSJ) “The culprit is the rising price of fabric. Cotton prices climbed a record 91% in 2010, and the price of crossbred wool hit a 14-year high in October, up 50% over 15 months… But higher material costs are only part of the story: Increasing demand caused by rising affluence is another.” New Experience Economy to Drive China Luxury in 2011 (Red Luxury) “Consumer demand

…Continue Reading

Risking Barneys’ cool, Moncler fights fakes, Gilt goes full price, Yoox to open in China, First look at Tom Ford

Judy Collinson with Julie Gilhart | Source: Rodim

Will Top Firings Change Barneys’ Cool? (On the Runway) “Increasing Barneys’ profitability was a prime objective… The recession forced retailers to become leaner and more competitive, in particular with online sales, and that urgency will be critical to Barneys’ cool.” Moncler fights against fakes (Fashion United) “The Italian Fashion Chamber is joining Moncler and also stepping up against fakes…

…Continue Reading

Ungaro’s fall, Mark Lee confirmed Barneys CEO, Social statements, Western fits for Levi’s China, Tansky’s legacy

Emanuel Ungaro fitting a model | Source: NY Times

The Fall of the House of Ungaro (NY Times) “Ungaro was losing roughly $15 million a year, and [the Ferragamos] signaled to their bankers to look for a buyer. Abdullah was the only serious buyer who turned up. That was in 2005, and as you probably guessed, he had no experience in fashion.” Barneys Appoints New CEO (Market Watch) “Barneys New York, the luxury retailer, with the support of its shareholder Istithmar

…Continue Reading

Booming Brazil, Barney’s credit rating, Graduate Fashion Week winners, Cinema and couture, Prabal’s past

Barney's in Dallas, Tx | Source: designscene.net

Brazil’s prosperity bursts forth on catwalk (AFP) “Brazil kicked off Latin America’s premier fashion event, Sao Paulo Fashion Week, Wednesday, with parades showcasing its economic prosperity and optimism.” S&P removes upscale Barney’s from CreditWatch (Business Week) “Standard & Poor’s on Thursday affirmed its corporate credit rating on Barney’s New York and removed it from

…Continue Reading

Remembering Malcolm McLaren, LVMH hotel deal, American Apparel scramble, H&M beats forecast, Gilhart’s spirit

Malcolm McLaren, pictured in June 1994 | Source: Times

Causing Outrage: Remembering Malcolm McLaren (NY Times) “Malcolm McLaren… was never really into fashion, though we fashion writers loved to pick his brain. Mr. McLaren saw the big cultural picture of which fashion was a part, and he sensed the small vibrations long, long before they reached the mainstream.” LVMH signs luxury hotel deal with Egypt’s Orascom (FT) “LVMH, the luxury goods company, is to

…Continue Reading

Burkle eyes Barneys, Bloomingdale’s Dubai, Versace’s new look, Blogger backlash, Robert Polet in Davos

Bloomindale's Dubai | Source: The National

Burkle Angles for Controlling Stake in Barneys (WSJ) “Billionaire Ronald Burkle is angling to take a controlling stake in Barneys New York, people familiar with the situation said, a bet that the company and battered luxury retail sector have seen the worst of the recession.” Bloomingdale’s opens in Dubai (The National) “From today, people in Dubai will be able to indulge in the magic of Bloomingdale’s as

…Continue Reading

Rethinking accessories, Socol’s values, Young bloggers’ sway, Fact-checking at the majors, Menswear morass

Ohne Titel, Alexander Wang, Preen, Richard Chai, Altuzarra, courtesy of the New York Times.jpg

Accessories After the Fact (WSJ Magazine) “It’s been a brutal year for the arbiters of all things luxurious. World-wide accessories sales, the engine driving the explosive growth of the luxury-goods industry over the past decade, are projected to decline 10 percent in 2009, according to Bain & Co., the first real decline since Bain began tracking the sector in 1995.” Former Barneys CEO Watches Shows and Luxury Goods

…Continue Reading