La Mode Berlin (WSJ)
“The city’s edgy, sexy vibe was evident on Wednesday as German designers kicked off Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week, which runs through Saturday. Getting on the world’s fashion map isn’t easy, but Berlin is trying.”

American Eagle Promotes Apparel With Free Phones (WSJ)
“Teen retailers in particular have struggled against gadget makers for control of younger buyers’ wallets. Since the recession, cash-strapped teens have opted to spend what little discretionary income they have on electronics, forcing retailers to compete heavily on price.”

Fashion Industry Waiting For China’s Karl Lagerfeld (Jing Daily)
“We’ve covered the gradual appearance of Chinese design cues in recent collections by top Western fashion and luxury houses, but what’s the status of China’s home-grown designers? When will we see them on the global stage?”

National Treasure (IHT)
“There comes a moment when a great designer moves from being a creative force to a national treasure. With his haute couture show Wednesday, Jean Paul Gaultier took that step.”

Valentino May Be Profitable in 2010; Permira Committed (Bloomberg)
“‘If we are moving ahead at this speed and the economic situation is fine, we can reach good results very soon,’…. Earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization ‘could be positive’ this year.”

BERLIN, Germany — A big thank you to PREMIUM and Mary Scherpe of Stil in Berlin for inviting me to join an esteemed panel of German fashion experts — Christoph Amend of Zeit Magazin, Marcus Luft of Gala and  Too Posh to Push, and Sven Schoene of PR Agency K-MB — to discuss the future of fashion media on the first day of Berlin Fashion Week.

The panel began with the esteemed Suzy Menkes, who wasn’t able to participate in person, but declared via video: “The world changed when fashion instead of being a monologue, became a conversation. And that’s never going to stop.”

Suzy, of course, was amongst the first of the mainstream fashion editors to reach out to bloggers and engage them as professionals. “A good blogger,” she says, “can really take all sorts of elements and use them both in words and pictures and make a strong statement.”

She’s “tremendously in favour of anything that is new and fresh in fashion,” but the one thing that concerns her is that “some bloggers believe, in their innocence, that they are completely independent in what they say.” In between the lines, Suzy advises bloggers to be wary of the increasing pressure they receive from brands to evangelise brands and products.

The video also features Julia and Jessie from Les Mads, Jennine from The Coveted and Yvan from The Facehunter, each of whom provide their own perspectives on how quickly the fashion blogosphere is rising in influence and prevalence.

Giambattista Valli A/W 09, courtesy of coutorture

Burani to License Giambattista Valli Fashions (WSJ)
“Italy’s Mariella Burani Fashion Group said it has signed a five-year contract to make and distribute the ready-to-wear collection of Italian fashion designer Giambattista Valli, a deal aimed at growing both companies as the luxury goods industry suffers through the economic crisis.”

Haute Couture Faces Uncertain Times (IHT)
“In the closeted world of satin and sequins that is Parisian haute couture, there is uncertainty about the future.”

Berlin Fashion Week Shows a Raw Energy (New York Times)
“From the discomforting sight of homeless people from public shelters as models at Patrick Mohr’s show, to the gritty glamour of the Boss Orange line strutted through a former electricity plant on the city’s outer fringes, Berlin Fashion Week, which closed last weekend, had a distinctive raw energy.”

Too Precious for a Recession (New York Times)
“In a different economy, Billy Mitchell and Nicole Drucker of San Francisco might have splurged on a $10,000 engagement ring. But Ms. Drucker is out of work and they need to save for a house. So in April, Mr. Mitchell got down on one knee on the Golden Gate Bridge and proposed with a $4,000 diamond ring he had bought on the Internet.”

Christian Lacroix: hanging on by a thread (AFP)
“Designer Christian Lacroix has had his back against the wall since the fashion house which bears his name went into administration early last month. If no saviour turns up, the house will close its doors at the end of July and 112 of its current 124 employees will lose their jobs.”

Scene on Madison Avenue, courtesy of the New York Times

On Madison Avenue, Shops Pack Their Hand-Tooled Bags (New York Times)
“New York’s most elegant shopping corridor, the Gold Coast of Madison Avenue, from 57th Street to 72nd Street, is pockmarked with vacancies as retailers flee sky-high rents.”

Mango’s sales rise 8% (Drapers)
Beating the downward retail trend, Mango’s sales rise 8 percent.

Industry Reacts to Lincoln Center Move (WWD)
Lincoln Center’s Damrosch Park is New York Fashion Week’s new location, and not all industry players are happy. (Subscription required)

Berlin Fashion Week | Very ‘Project Runway’ (The Moment)
“Instead of distilling a powerful German aesthetic and developing the public relations and commercial infrastructure necessary for real success, people are more focused on blowing Champagne kisses and indulging their caviar dreams.”

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