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8 August, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Theyskens and Theory, Luxury brands defy malaise, Slow perfume, Pendleton USA, Carmen Busquets invests

Olivier Theyskens for Theory | Source: Spotted Fashion

Theory’s Designer Shapes a New Future (IHT)
“Mr. Rosen was asked whether the seemingly sudden decision to hand over creative control of Theory to the young designer was a risky move. ‘To me, it’s not a risk,’ he said. ‘I know Olivier, and I know his understanding of Theory. I think it’s a great opportunity. I didn’t need a reaction from the consumer on Theyskens’ Theory. It’s amazing clothes that will get an amazing response.’”

Economy is in Crisis, Yet Luxury Brands Still Report Sales Growth (Forbes)
“The rich are not spending as willingly as they were before the recession but they are approaching the height of that cash flow. One simply has to look at the numbers in order to recognize the trend… While the tight wallets of the majority of the population are cause for concern, the spending of the wealthy may contribute to the overall economic recovery.”

The slow fragrance movement (FT)
“These days perfumes are as integral to brand-building as a recognisable logo or a flagship store, and most designers launch scents almost at the same time as their first ready-to-wear line… Enter the Bottega Veneta experiment, an effort to create a new approach to fragrance in the contemporary market. Call it slow perfume.”

Pendleton: Born in the USA and still going strong (LA Times)
“Pendleton, founded in 1863, has been family-run for sixth generations and produces all of its American Indian-patterned blankets and much of its clothing in the Pacific Northwest. Pendleton’s three mills are among a handful that have survived in the U.S., which once had a booming textile industry with nearly 1,000 mills in operation at the beginning of the 19th Century.”

Carmen Busquets invests in social networking clothing design business Lookk.com (Telegraph)
Carmen Busquets, the Venezuelan luxury-goods investor who made a profit of almost £100m from the sale of fashion website Net-a-Porter last year, is to plough some of her gains into social networking clothes design business… Lookk.com aims to connect designers directly with customers through an open network in a way that is ‘authentic’ and ‘refreshing’.”

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18 April, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Dressing pop stars, Bottega Veneta’s ambition, Burberry reinvests in London, The young Chinese, H&M’s Johansson

Rihanna wears Hervé Léger by Max Azria | Source: Vogue US

Why designers love to dress pop music’s leading ladies (Independent)
“A quick glance at red carpeted occasions explains why designers, while still happy to dress actors – from fledgling talent to veritable superstars – might find working with their musical counterparts more inspiring.”

Bottega Veneta expands with bags of ambition (FT)
“Bottega Veneta, which has built a reputation as a discreet, logo-free luxury brand over the past decade, last year was the best performing company at parent PPR, the French luxury goods group. Revenues rose 27 per cent to €510.6m.”

Burberry to invest in London ahead of Olympics (Telegraph)
“Burberry… is planning to ‘aggressively reinvest’ in London by reconfiguring its store portfolio and opening new retail space… Next year’s Olympics have also spurred Burberry’s decision to boost its London presence.”

The young Chinese executives driving a luxury goods boom (Telegraph)
“One of the biggest drivers of luxury growth in the years ahead will be young self-employed or corporate executives, many of whom have lived abroad and many of whom are second-generation wealthy.”

H&M’s Ann-Sofie Johansson (Thread NY)
“Ann-Sofie Johansson started out at H&M working on the sales floor in 1987, became a design assistant in 1990, and by 2008 was head of design… Johansson answered questions from what it’s like to manage a team of over 140 designers… to her approach to sustainable fashion.”

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4 January, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Tom Ford video, Hermès-LVMH saga, Branded content, Rei’s inspiration, Tomas Maier says ‘Just have less’

Tom Ford’s Private Spring ’11 Show (Grazia Daily)
“If there’s one man who knows how to tantalize an audience, it’s Mr Tom Ford. Because, as a New Year gift, the designer has bestowed upon us super-glossy footage of his highly-secretive, high-security showcase four months after it took place.”

Regulator to weigh Hermès buyout waiver (Reuters)
“France’s stock market regulator will examine Hermès request for a waiver on buying out minority shareholders on Thursday as the luxury goods maker tries to fend off a takeover from rival LVMH, according to a person familiar with the matter.”

7 Stellar Examples of Branded Content from the Fashion Industry (Mashable)
“From online blogzines to Tumblr-powered micro sites, branded content is quickly  becoming a cost effective, long-term online marketing strategy that the fashion industry will continue to utilize as brands and retailers look for new, innovative ways to connect with customers online.”

Rei Kawakubo thinks inspiration is hard to find (Vogue UK)
“Rei Kawakubo says finding new inspiration is growing more and more challenging the longer she is in fashion – and she’s worried that today’s crop of designer talent don’t have what it takes to succeed her.”

Just Have Less: Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier (New Yorker)
“Tomas Maier, the head designer of the Italian fashion label Bottega Veneta, is one of those people who wants to erase every fault in their range of sight.”

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1 March, 2010 | by BoF Team

Daily Digest | Phoebe Philo’s third act, Bottega Veneta grows up, Liberty to sell freehold, Vogue’s new app, Milan’s directions

Phoebe Philo by Solve Sundsbo | Source: NY Times

Phoebe Philo by Solve Sundsbo | Source: NY Times

Phoebe Philo’s Third Act (T Magazine)
“A designer’s debut at a new label is always exciting, especially if it is backed by a luxury colossus, as Céline is by LVMH. But this particular designer is the fashion superstar who made Chloé one of the hottest labels of the early 2000s.”

Bottega Veneta Grows Up (WSJ)
“As Bottega pursues its strategy to grow from a niche player into a global brand, it has been conducting a major overhaul to its business, starting from the production line. As part of that, it now decides well before its catwalks what—and how much—to manufacture and send to stores.”

Liberty considers freehold sale of iconic flagship store (Retail Week)
“Liberty has confirmed that investors are circling the luxury department store’s iconic Tudor-style building to lease it back to the company.”

Vogue App Turns Ads Into Shopping Links (WSJ)
“Vogue readers with iPhones are getting another toy to play with this month. The magazine is launching an application that looks like a fun shopping and styling tool but is actually a savvy way to connect the magazine and its advertisers directly with readers’ wallets.”

Milan Goes in All Directions (NY Times)
“The problem is Ms. Prada doesn’t know what to do with these older forms other than offer them… By contrast, the clothes for Fendi looked modern and relaxed.”

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27 October, 2009 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Westfield one year later, Boutiques shutter, Rents rise, Bottega’s bounty, Anthropologie makes European debut

Westfield Mall in White City | Source: Architecture Revived

Westfield Mall in White City | Source: Architecture Revived

How Westfield won us over (Independent)
When the Australian property giant, the Westfield Group, opened its shining, £1.7bn retail cathedral in Shepherd’s Bush, West London, on 30 October 2008, its timing could not have been worse…One year later and the mood music from a number of the centre’s retailers appears more positive.”

Boutiques close as recession reshapes high street (The Times)
“Fashion retailers emerge among the recession’s leading casualties, with independent shops proving less able to weather the downturn than giants such as Next, Marks & Spencer and Debenhams.  Nearly 18 per cent of women’s wear and children’s wear shops closed, and 15 per cent of independent fashion shops.”

Land Securities ends cut price rent as property demand rises (Drapers)
“Retail landlord Land Securities will no longer offer retail tenants rent concessions amid signs of increasing demand for space, leading to claims that landlords are back in the driving seat at the negotiating table.”

Bottega Veneta Unveils Design Competition (WWD)
“Bottega Veneta has launched a furniture design competition for students at The University of Tokyo. Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier was in town to review the 18 contenders’ initial sketches and outline the project to local journalist.”

American cult fashion shop Anthropologie opens in London (Guardian)
“London’s fashion credentials have been given a boost with the cult US store Anthropologie opening on Regent Street. Likened by the industry to the launch of Topshop in New York, the opening is the first for the brand in Europe.”

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