L-R Mugler, Issey Miyake, 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2012 | Source: Style.com

Asian Designers Make an Impact in Paris (IHT)
“Asian designers, whether home based or in the fashion diaspora, are making an impact in the opening days of the Paris men’s 2012 season. Phillip Lim, the Cambodian-American designer based in New York, was smart to come to Paris to show a 3.1 Phillip Lim collection that was simple but laced with the conceptual.”

European Luxury-Goods Stocks May Benefit From Weaker Currencies (Bloomberg)
“Investors forecasting the euro and Swiss franc will weaken against the dollar may find comfort in shares of European luxury-goods companies. Financiere Richemont and LVMH are among stocks that would benefit disproportionately if the currencies fall further from year-ago levels.”

Crisis on the catwalk over Britain’s fashion brain drain (Independent)
“The British Fashion Council (BFC) yesterday announced the formation of a Fashion 2012 Menswear committee, designed to raise the profile of UK designers and increase sales.”

More Heads Roll at Ungaro (The Cut)
“After losing Giles Deacon in December and new CEO Jeffry Aronsson just last month, Emanuel Ungaro appears to be on one shaky last leg. WWD reports that the ailing French fashion house told retailers that they’re unable to deliver their spring-summer collection because of ‘internal reorganization.’”

Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones: exclusive Q&A (Guardian)
“British menswear designer of the year Kim Jones presented his second collection for Louis Vuitton. He talks exclusively to the Guardian about his inspirations and moodboard.”

Gilt Groupe screenshot | Source: Gilt.com

Online flash sales less flashy as inventory shrinks (Reuters)
“The flash sales business has lost some of its flash, forcing online luxury clothing merchants such as Gilt Groupe, Ideeli and Rue La La to radically change their business models. These businesses burst onto the fashion scene during the recession to try to move a mountain of unsold clothes. Now there is less luxury inventory and flash sales sites are bigger. That has forced these companies to pay more or find other ways to get their products.”

Storm Clouds Loom Over China’s Red-Hot Luxury E-Commerce Market (Jing Daily)
“With China’s luxury industry expected to become the world’s largest by 2015, and the country’s online population swelling, dozens of companies have jumped on the high-end online retail bandwagon… With online shopping moving up the value chain, more competition looking to crack the market, and more individual brands expressing interest in adding e-commerce functionality in China, there’s plenty to be optimistic about. But as an extremely young and untested market, full of similarly young and untested companies, storm clouds may be looming.”

LVMH confident on 2011 as Q3 sales rise (Reuters)
“LVMH , the world’s biggest luxury group, posted forecast-beating third-quarter sales growth on Tuesday and said it was confident for the rest of 2011, showing no signs of a slowdown in the luxury industry despite the slowing economy… The company said like-for-like sales rose 15 percent to 6.01 billion euros ($8.27 billion) in the three months to Sept. 30.”

India’s Luxury Market Up 20% in 2010 (Forbes)
“It’s not just the new wealthy in China that is enjoying a life of luxury. Its neighbor India is showing that it has a taste for the good life as well. The luxury market in India is grew 20 percent to 5.8 billion in 2010 and this growth is expected to continue into the near future, according to a survey by the Confederation of India Industry andA.T. Kearney Ltd.”

London To LA (Vogue UK)
“The British Fashion Council has taken the cream of British design talent to Los Angeles for the first time, as part of its London ShowRooms series… The initiative, which regularly takes the country’s most promising designers to Paris and New York to meet with potential stockists, will allow London-based names… To meet LA’s key press and buyers at a showroom.”

Suno Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Suno

Into Africa (Telegraph)
“Made in England; made in Italy; made in China. These are familiar labels in our clothes and accessories. But how about ‘made in Kenya’, stitched into the lining of a Vivienne Westwood handbag? Or on the swing tags of Matches ‘hot new collection, Suno, with its juicy mixes of colour and print?”

For New Stars of London, a New York Debut (NY Times)
“Among the world fashion capitals, London has historically taken pride in the brash creativity demonstrated by its designers, the latest crop being no exception… Creativity only gets you so far, however, and it certainly doesn’t make surviving in fashion any easier.”

Crowning Jewelry (WSJ)
“Owning a stunning piece of jewelry is a sensorial experience, but when it’s also a piece of history, that feeling is magnified… The sale of the Windsor jewels illustrates the continued spectacular demand for fine jewelry with provenance – a demand that has not been dimmed by financial crisis and recession.”

Italian industry must look beyond protectionism (FT)
“Why does a country such as Italy, with its talent in luxury goods and craftsmanship, not have a global luxury group to match LVMH and PPR in France, or Richemont in Switzerland? Italian industry needs vision more than patriotism.”

At Cartier, Designer Promotes Philosophy of Sharing (NY Times)
“Probably fewer than a hundred women work in the upper management… and the master watchmakers who happen to be women can be counted on one hand. It can therefore come as something of a surprise to learn that a woman is behind some of the most innovative watch designs to come to the market in the past few years.”

Holly Fulton A/W 09, Swarovski Emerging Talent Award Winner | Source: Dazed

British Fashion Awards 2009 – The Winners (Independent)
“British fashion’s leading lights were rubbing shoulder pads last night at the prestigious annual awards which celebrate home-grown design talent and business success and are voted for by industry leaders, designers and retailers.”

Neiman Marcus sees weak luxury demand (FT)
“Neiman Marcus, the US luxury retailer, said on Wednesday it was seeing “some encouraging signs” of a recovery in parts of its high-end business, while warning that it expected overall demand to remain weak for some time.”

New York cracks down on counterfeit luxury goods (Reuters)
“New York authorities are cracking down on the sale of counterfeit luxury items, shutting down 31 stalls in raids on Tuesday and Wednesday and seizing $1 million of fake bags and watches.”

Burberry confirms London Fashion Week return (Drapers)
“Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey has confirmed that the luxury British brand will stay at London Fashion Week this February.”

Alexander Wang, for Cool Kids, and Now You (NY Times)
“Don’t tell Alexander Wang that blue is the new black or that wedge-heel boots are the season’s must-have. Such airy edicts would most likely make him laugh. “No one talks like that anymore,” said Mr. Wang, whose keen sense of what young women want to wear is matched only by his no-nonsense approach to his, um, métier.”

Harold Tillman, Chairman, The British Fashion Council

LONDON, United Kingdom — Long before he was appointed Chairman of The British Fashion Council, Harold Tillman had already shown a commitment for supporting British Fashion, and young designers in particular. He famously gave Paul Smith his first job. And, in my first meeting with him back in 2006, Mr. Tillman and I vigorously debated and discussed the common challenges faced by the city’s designers and what could possibly be done to support them. A few months earlier, he had personally financed a £1m scholarship program at his alma mater, The London College of Fashion, to sponsor 10 students each year.

So, it must be with great satisfaction that Mr. Tillman reads widespread reports of the great comeback that London Fashion Week is making this season. The buzz about London’s young designers is hotter than ever. And, with a flood of returning brands, designers and important American and European editors, this will certainly be a fashion week to remember.

But, Mr. Tillman will also be the first to admit that hype and media attention are not enough. A seasoned entrepreneur (he took his first company public at the age of 24), business builder (with Belinda Earl, CEO of Jaeger, he has re-built the excitement around the venerable British brand), and investor (with a group of partners, he recently saved Acquscutum from the brink), Tillman recognises the importance of secure financing, flawless execution and great design for success in fashion.

On this, the first day of London Fashion week, I reached Mr Tillman by email to better understand his plans for London Fashion Week, the various initiatives planned to support British fashion businesses, and his long-term objectives for the British fashion industry. In particular, now that several young fashion businesses in London — Erdem and Christopher Kane included — have achieved annual revenues of over £1m, now is the time to assess how to take these high-potential businesses to the next level.

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