Milan’s driving ambition, LVMH controls Bulgari, Magazine commerce, Who Is On Next, Tweet or be discreet?

Yelling ‘Fire’ on a Crowded Runway (NY Times) “Without question, we can count on Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and, at times, Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta to say something with fashion, and not just offer approachable clothes. But there should be many more designers in Milan with that driving ambition. Otherwise, the future of fashion will be in jeopardy.” LVMH says it controls 98.09

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Changing seasons, Bulgari bid complaint, Mobile marketing in the moment, Price inflation, Pint-sized pundits

Dover Street Market | Source: Dover Street Market

All change (FT) “While other shops gradually push the spring/summer sale stock into a corner as they introduce autumn/winter collections, every six months for the past seven years Dover Street has shut while new spaces are introduced, existing ones revamped or moved, and new ranges displayed…. What’s more important is creation and strength and newness.” Italian regulator examining Bulgari bid complaint (Reuters) “Italian

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Faking it, Fashion’s shifting focus, Digitising trend-forecasting, LVMH Bulgari deal cleared, Facchinetti returns

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Louis Vuitton

Counterfeits get sophisticated: how to spot fakes | Source: WSJ The Finer Art of Faking It (WSJ) “The prices of the imitators are rising, confusing customers who are looking for the real deal at a discounted price. Still, the higher-priced fakes are just a fraction of what a real item would cost…  To fight back, more brands are turning to authentication devices into their merchandise.” The Has-Beens of the Fashion

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Valentino’s state of grace, Protecting the Pashmina, Bulgari returns to profit, Hermès sales leap, Yusuke Maegawa

Valentino Spring Summer 2011 | Source: Valentino

Valentino: State of Grace (Interview) “If there is something most significant about Valentino, it’s that women feel beautiful when they’re wearing Valentino. Beauty is at the core of his work—it’s not just an element.” Nepal seeks legal cover for shawl that conquered the world (Independent) “Coveted for its lightness and warmth, the [pashmina] wool… has brought much-needed income to the mountain kingdom of

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Putting China first, Designers out at Ferré, Gap’s overseas push, Bulgari sales sparkle, Fashion theatre

China First: Coaxing or Kowtowing? (Luxury Society) "Last Wednesday, Burberry joined the ranks of such other megabrands in this quest to show China not only that they mean business but that they are putting the country first... Offering a technologically enhanced ‘debut’ geared toward China’s youth is also a strategic one, considering that 73% of luxury buyers in China are under the age of 45." Aquilano and Rimondi out at Gianfranco Ferré (Fashion Etc) "When questioned about the designers' fates at the label's Fall 2011 show in February, Paris Group's Abdulkader Sankari and his son Ahmed are said to have cut Aquilano and Rimondi loose in the face of weak sales figures. 'Sales didn’t go well at all and the…

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Bulgari goes global, New day for Valentino, Women in Luxe, Conspicuous and discreet in China, Fashion’s relentless pace

Bulgari Store, Rome | Source: Daylife

Bulgari under fire for global ambition (FT) In a globalised world, the relatively small scale of many Italian companies… is proving a problem that is shared by Italian industry at large… ‘The risk to independent brands is that if they do not have revenues of around €3bn [$4bn], they will probably lose market share.’ This is because it is too difficult to compete with companies such as LVMH. A new day for

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Fire and Ice, Leather supply squeeze, Independent jewellers to struggle, D&G line to fold, Pressure cooker

L-R Alexander McQueen, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Style.com

Chanel provides the fire, McQueen the ice (Independent) “The mood in fashion is changing. The sight of a waif-like female stepping out in a heavily embellished, barely-there cocktail dress now seems dated. Lagerfeld’s status as the last of the great, traditionally trained couturiers is undisputed. He is also enough of a modernist, however, to respond to the zeitgeist and his reaction made for impressive viewing.”

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LVMH takes over Bulgari, Battle for Hermès goes on, Playing the game, Runway realism, Creative destruction

Bulgari B.Zero1 Collection | Source: Bulgari

LVMH to take over Bulgari in 3.7 billion-euro deal (Reuters) “French luxury group LVMH will take over Italy’s Bulgari in an 3.7 billion-euro all-share deal… Bulgari, established in 1884, agreed to the takeover ‘in order to reinforce, in accordance with its history, values, craftmanship and identity, the long-term development of the Bulgari Group,’ it said. Under the deal, the Bulgari family will become

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Jack & Laz open up, Prada’s eternal innocence, Custom tailoring revival, Bulgari MBA, Pierre Rougier’s PR power

CFDA Winners Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler | Source: Fashionista

Chloe Sevigny interviews Proenza Schouler (Interview Magazine) “It has been nearly nine years since Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez-both 23 and fresh out of design school… Their almost instantaneous rise through the realms of the fashion world as Proenza Schouler-seemingly so unscripted that they hardly had a business model when they began-is the stuff of lightning New York success stories.” Prada

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Kate Moss and Topshop part ways, Gucci’s digital flagship, Bulgari recovers, Boss sales rebound, Kolkata fashion weeks clash

Kate Moss for Topshop, Autumn 2009 | Source: Topshop

Kate Moss and Topshop to end design deal (BBC) “A three-year design partnership between Kate Moss and Topshop is to end later this year. When the supermodel unveils her autumn and winter range in October – it will be her 14th and last collection for the chain.” Gucci opens its new luxury digital flagship store (Fashion and Runway) “Following an 18 month architectural renovation under the direction of Gucci

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Model comeback, American Apparel stock plunges, PPR profit leaps, Bulgari’s modest gain, Buranis arrested

Zimmerman and Jovanovic for Gucci A/W 2010 | Source: Fashion and Runway

Why fashion has fallen out of love with its A-list clotheshorses (Independent) “This time around, the women chosen… are united by their anonymity outside of [fashion]… prompting many insiders to wonder: is fashion’s long-running love affair with celebrity finally over?” American Apparel Shares Plunge as Auditor Steps Aside (WSJ) “American Apparel shares plunged as much as 25% Thursday after the

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Trapani’s choices, Entrepreneuring women, Lilly Pulitzer’s true colours, UK Property tax hit, Toronto’s troubles

Francesco Trapani photographed by Ko Sasaki | Source: NY Times

Strategic changes at Bulgari – Francesco Trapani (Europa Star) “In a watchmaking landscape that is seeing a shuffling of cards (economic crisis, the announcement by Nicolas Hayek that the Swatch Group is stopping distribution of component parts), what is Bulgari’s strategy?” Two women, two businesses, one £450m British success story (Independent) “One began by selling a few posh frocks in cyberspace. The

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Acquisition frenzy, Bulgari posts loss, Moody’s upgrades Saks, Liberty agrees flagship sale, Russian luxury declines

Tommy Hilfiger Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Tommy Hilfiger

A big takeover brings cheer to gloomy fashion retailing (Economist) “PVH’s acquisition of Tommy Hilfiger has aroused widespread interest, because it is a sign of life in an ailing industry. Analysts are predicting that more deals will follow this year. The cutbacks fashion companies have made in the past two years have left some of them with cash to spend on takeovers.” Cost-cuts take shine off Bulgari (FT)

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