LONDON, United Kingdom — In February of 2004, writing about London Fashion Week in the Guardian newspaper, Charlie Porter declared: “It’s that old London fashion week conundrum all over again — wondering what’s the point, and failing to find an answer.” A month earlier, Porter said that London Fashion Week was in crisis mode.

Looking back, it’s easy to understand Porter’s lack of optimism. That February, London hosted 40 shows in a 5-day schedule. This was a decline from 50 shows in September of 2003. Style.com only reviewed 13 of the on-schedule shows in London, or about 33 percent. As a proxy for quality, this ratio did not bode well for London’s position amongst the major fashion capitals. Major editors were in short supply and international buyers were few and far between at the lacklustre event.

What a difference five years makes. It felt like three times as much activity was packed in to the same five day period during this London Fashion Week. With more than 75 on-schedule shows and presentations at Somerset House and other locations, more than 50 off-schedule designers showing at Fashion Scout and On|Off, plus a full day of menswear and even more events each evening, this was a jam-packed London Fashion Week to remember.

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London Fashion Week: Burberry (Telegraph)
“A shower of silver sequins rained down on 1,500 guests in a vast white tent in the grounds of the Chelsea College of Art & Design last night (Tuesday), creating a starry climax to the Burberry Prorsum show at London Fashion Week.”

Burberry Jumps After Ahrendts Says U.K. ‘On Fire’ (Bloomberg)
“Burberry Group Plc rose as much as 5.8 percent in London trading after Chief Executive Officer Angela Ahrendts said the clothing maker’s U.K. business has been “on fire” as demand for luxury goods improves.”

Tom Ford Seeking At Least $50 Million (PEHUB)
“Tom Ford International is on the hunt for financial backers, two sources familiar with the situation told peHUB. The New York-based fashion house entered the market within the past two weeks seeking a $50 million or greater investment, the sources said. Credit Suisse is managing the process.”

Luxury retailers see rents drop globally (CBC)
“Some 54 per cent of the 274 luxury retail strips covered under real estate consultancy Cushman Wakefield’s annual survey of retail rents dropped during the past year. Only in 18 places did rents increase this year.”

Clements Ribeiro say fashion in era of exuberance (Reuters)
“Design duo Clements Ribeiro, who have dressed Madonna and Nicole Kidman, believe fashion is experiencing a period of particular creativity and are beginning to look for investors for their label.”

Luxury’s cautious comeback in Calgary (Globe & Mail)
“Hermès is on the way in, upscale merchants are expanding – but that doesn’t mean it’s business as usual.”

Pringle A/W 09 ad campaign, courtesy of Pringle

A lady from Chanel who wants to drive Pringle off the golf course (Guardian)
“American Mary-Adair Macaire aims to restore the struggling Scottish knitwear firm’s name for elegance.”

From the Garage to the Runway (WSJ)
“Little more than a year ago, 27-year-old Hannah Marshall spent most days at a garage in rural Essex, two hours outside London, working in a makeshift studio to create tight, sexy-sinister dresses that looked a bit like Audrey Hepburn meets ‘The Matrix.’ Today, Ms. Marshall has her own fashion-design studio in London thanks to funding from the Centre for Fashion Enterprise.”

Fashion’s Night Out Falls Short (Forbes)
“Anna Wintour’s much-publicized event drew big crowds, but few dollars.”

Designers return to kick-start London Fashion Week (AFP)
“British designers who abandoned their homeland for the bright lights of New York, Milan and Paris are returning in droves this season in what promises to be the most exciting London Fashion Week for years.”

Burberry looks to win over friends online (FT)
“Burberry, the fashion brand that has gone from classic to cutting edge, is to launch its own social networking site next month. The clothing group hopes the move will deepen its relationship with customers and attract new devotees.”

Jil Sander for Uniqlo, courtesy of Uniqlo

Jil Sander’s new range for Uniqlo (Guardian)
“Jil Sander has been off the fashion scene for a while, but now the queen of understatement is taking on a new project – high-class design for the masses – with the Japanese brand Uniqlo.”

China Inc: Not just a maker but new owner of fashion (Reuters)
“After decades of Made-in-China garments, China’s fashion industry is keen to move on from being just a mass manufacturer of clothes — it wants to own western brands and to sell them to China’s 1.3 billion consumers.”

The A-Word: Fashion Embraces Accessibility (WSJ)
“During the boom time, it was considered somewhat shameful to create a ‘commercial’ collection that had practical elements (sleeves, for instance) that made them widely wearable. Now, many designers are creating more casual clothing — known in the industry as ‘contemporary’ — with an emphasis on luxury-quality sportswear.”

Back in fashion – Burberry’s CFO (Accountancy Age)
“In short, Thomson Reuters has delisted, leaving room for another company to enter the FTSE 100. Next in line is Burberry, the luxury fashion brand, and that brings Cartwright, the company’s CFO, into the top flight.”

Luxury Retailers Rush To Adapt: Chic Goes Cheap (Time)
“As fashion editors, department store buyers and couture afficionadoes congregate along the catwalks for New York’s Fashion Week shows, luxury retailers and designers may be looking upon beauty but their thoughts are likely on the ugly economy.”

Burberry Black Label A/W 2010, courtesy of Burberry

Best of British: Why Burberry has the fashion business all wrapped up (Times)
“It fought the fakers, weathered an image crisis and resisted recession to become the darling of the FTSE 100. On the eve of Burberry’s return to London Fashion Week, Susannah Frankel checks out how a trenchcoat company became the British design phenomenon of the decade.”

Gianfranco Ferre defies crisis with major revamp (Reuters)
“Italian fashion house Gianfranco Ferre has enough cash to stage fashion shows, launch a shoe and handbag line and roll-out a new logo despite being in administration and hit by the downturn, its CEO said.”

Recession forcing retailers to think small (AP)
“The Great Recession and Americans’ retreat into thriftiness are teaching retailers a new lesson: How to survive when consumers are focused on ‘needs’ rather than ‘wants.’”

Global luxury sales to end this year 10 pct down (AFP)
“The global luxury market has been badly wounded by the financial crisis and will not fully recover for at least another three years, an international conference on the sector heard in Brazil on Wednesday.”

A Design Generation Rising (New York Times)
“At New York Fashion Week, which begins today, 25 Asian-American fashion designers plan to hold shows or presentations, nearly double the number five years ago. To explain the sharp increase in their numbers, many young Asian-American designers point to a cultural shift within their communities that has liberated them from traditional career expectations.”

Imitate That Zipper! (New York Times)
“In recent months, a veritable industry has sprung up around [Rick] Owens, who may be fashion’s most imitated designer. Rival houses are racing to produce their own distillations of his angular flaps, zigzagging zippers, gossamer T-shirts and biker jackets pliant as second skins.”

Burberry May Speed U.S. Growth Amid Deals on NYC, Indiana Space (Bloomberg)
Burberry may accelerate plans to open U.S. stores as premium shop space becomes available at cheaper prices. “Spaces we thought may not have been available a couple of years ago are available now,” said Stacey Cartwright, CFO.

Versace ends licence deal with IT Holding unit (Reuters)
“Italian fashion house Versace has ended its licensing deal with IT Holding unit Ittierre — currently in special administration — for the production and distribution of its VJC and Versace Sport lines, it said.”

Girl-Next-Door Looks Come Back Into Fashion (Wall Street Journal)
“In Weak Economy, Magazines and Design Houses Play It Safe, Replacing Edgy Models With ‘Classic’ Beauties.”

Top Marks for Topman (Guardian)
“Topman has come a long way from being Topshop’s uncool little brother – these days it leads the way in menswear, with top designers watching closely.”

Vuitton to Sponsor Film Award (WWD)
“Louis Vuitton said Monday it would bestow $25,000 prizes to the two student filmmakers who make the best two-minute works on the theme of “life as a journey.”

Dishevelled London mayor graces fashion cover (AFP)
“London’s famously dishevelled mayor, Boris Johnson, will grace the cover of fashion bible Elle next month in what many will see as a surprising partnership to mark 25 years of London Fashion Week.”

Burberry has come home (Telegraph)
“The launch of this collection will be a massive event, the highlight of London Fashion Week. Not only is it the 25th anniversary of LFW and the British Fashion Council, it is also the first time since Bailey joined the brand as creative director in 2001 that Burberry has shown its collection on home ground.”

Fashionair on hunt for next presenting star at Selfridges (Drapers)
“Fashionair.com, the fashion website launched by pop svengali Simon Fuller, will host a series of events at Selfridges including a competition to become one of its presenters to celebrate the site’s official launch later this week.”

Burberry’s Sales Growth Slows in First Quarter (WSJ)
“U.K. luxury fashion group Burberry PLC Wednesday reported a further slowdown in sales growth in its fiscal first quarter as the economic downturn continued to hold back demand, but the company remains confident it can deliver growth over the long term.” Click here for a behind the scenes look at the most recent Burberry campaign featuring Emma Watson.

H&M Sales Fall 5%, Miss Forecasts (WSJ)
“Fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz AB Wednesday reported a worse-than-expected drop in comparable store sales in June, as consumers continue to rein in spending amid the economic slowdown.”

Throwaway fashion ‘must end’ as chain launches 100 day returns policy (Telegraph)
“The recession has boosted the popularity of ultra-cheap clothing, with Tesco, Asda and Primark’s clothing sales all performing well over the last year. However, Anthony Thompson the head of George, Asda’s clothing business and the country’s third biggest fashion retailer, said: ‘I am appalled at the whole concept of throwaway fashion. It’s not right at any time, and it’s definitely not right in a recession.’”

WGSN to provide business updates to tap Indian fashion market (DNA India)
“WGSN with its understanding and insights of global fashion and experience of working with Fortune 500 companies, plans to partner with the Indian fashion industry to identify opportunities and the process to become a global player.”

Hilfiger to be lead designer for Chicago fashion incubator (Chicago Sun-Times)
“Furthering Mayor Richard Daley’s efforts to turn Chicago into the trendy Windy City and to attract worldwide attention, the city and Macy’s are expected today to name fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger as ‘master designer’ for the city’s Fashion Incubator.”

Jimmy Choo for H&M, courtesy of H&M

Jimmy Choo to Design for H&M (WSJ)
“Swedish fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz AB on Wednesday unveiled the name of its next designer collection team-up: British accessory brand Jimmy Choo.”

Burberry Chief Says Luxury Demand Is ‘Stabilizing’ (Bloomberg)
“Burberry Group Plc Chief Executive Officer Angela Ahrendts said luxury demand is leveling out as the market slowdown nears its first anniversary.”

Tod’s CEO sees some growth in 2009 (Reuters)
“Italian luxury shoe and bag maker Tod’s should see growth in 2009 despite the global economic downturn, its chairman and chief executive said on Tuesday.”

Pitti Uomo: Resilient mood on Day Two (Drapers)
“Exhibitors remained in a resilient mood at Pitti Uomo despite a quiet opening day and a general absence of UK buyers.”

Jude Law for Dunhill 09, courtesy of Dunhill

Richemont Creates Post To Turn Around Ailing Brands (WSJ)
“The world’s second-largest luxury company by sales named Martha Wikstrom, 52, head of a portfolio comprising most of Richemont’s less-prominent brands, including Alfred Dunhill and Lancel, which market so-called soft luxury goods such as leather and fashion.”

Burberry eyes expansion in U.S. (Guardian)
“While other retailers apply the brakes on expansion, Burberry plans to open 10 to 15 stores this fiscal year, with five stores planned in North and South America.”

J. Crew Profit Falls 33 percent Amid More Markdowns (WSJ)
“J. Crew Group Inc.’s fiscal first-quarter profit tumbled 33 percent on inventory markdowns, but shares rose in late trading as its results exceeded estimates.”

Italy’s Della Valle says Saks stake strategic investment (Reuters)
“Della Valle has acquired a 5.9 percent stake in Saks and last week told Italian newspaper Il Sole 24 Ore he intended to increase it, without saying by how much. Reports have said he has an option to go to 10 percent.”