In Defense of a Free Fashion Press

Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes sitting front row | Source: theluxechronicles.com

Fashion critics and journalists should be allowed to publish critical and substantial commentary on fashion shows without brands banning them from runway shows, says Colin McDowell, a member of the recently launched BoF 500.

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Colin’s Column | Does the Fashion Critic Matter Anymore?

Fashion Critics (L-R) Cathy Horyn, Godfrey Deeney, Suzy Menkes and Hilary Alexander

LONDON, United Kingdom — All creative endeavours require critical feedback if they are to develop and mature. Ancient storytellers honed their craft by observing the reaction of their audiences. Medieval strolling players were pelted with manure if they failed to perform well. Vaudeville artists in the American South were physically threatened and run out of town if they weren’t up to standard. Indeed, art, dance and literature all

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Cathy Horyn’s pointed pen, Coach UK, Fast fashion warning, Versace eyes Japan, 30 years of Japanese fashion

Coach Madison gathered leather handbad detail | Source: Coach

Fashion’s Most Feared Critic (Daily Beast) “Cathy Horyn wields a pointed pen to (sometimes) skewer her subjects…Carolina Herrera, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Helmut Lang, Nicole Miller, and Oscar de la Renta have all banned Horyn and the Times from covering their collections at various points…None of this has seemed to faze the journalist, who, this fashion season, displayed her trademark ability to

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Spring/Summer 2011 | The Season That Was

LONDON, United Kingdom — One never knows exactly what to expect from fashion month. Which designers will soar higher, which will stumble, and which will seemingly rise from the ashes? Four weeks of shows, parties and extravaganzas finally came to an end last Wednesday, and the answers to many of these questions have now been revealed. But of course fashion week isn’t just about shows and parties, it is also the time of year

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Horyn and Menkes beg to differ on designer appointments, Vuitton’s boom, Eco-friendly factories, Luxury Titanic?

Christophe Lemaire, new chief designer at Hermes | Source: Adah

Three Separate Challenges (NY Times) “With a number of companies now being run by equity-market managers, you can bet your bottom dollar that they would love to get their hands on an experienced design maestro — if more were available.” A New Pragmatism Behind the Catwalk (IHT) “A post-recession strategy likely to define luxury brand management for the early 21st century has emerged from a week packed with

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New Look scraps IPO, Superdry flotation, H&M beats forecast, Models’ age-old issue, Horyn’s fashion future

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: style.com

New Look joins list of companies scrapping IPOs (Independent) “The fashion chain New Look yesterday became the third major company in as many days to scrap a planned stock market flotation, blaming the lack of appetite of potential investors.” Superdry owner SuperGroup plans stock-market flotation (Guardian) “SuperGroup, the fashion company behind the fast-growing Superdry label, is expected to unveil plans to

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Valentino | The last word

On the eve of his final couture show held in Paris on Wednesday, Valentino Garavani was telling Italian newspapers that business is ruining the fashion industry and that he wished he had had time to groom a successor before retiring. Earlier this year, Permira, the private equity company, won a battle with The Carlyle Group for control of the Valentino business, which at the time was split up amongst several shareholders who had aligned themselves with different investors, leading to a down-to-the-wire battle for the venerable Italian fashion house. This may explain why Mr Valentino chose to use particularly strong language to describe the state of the fashion industry, telling Italy's Messagero newspaper that: "The world of fashion has now…

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