Emotion in Paris, Mall kids at Kenzo, Hermès in demand, Fung Brands expands, 30 years of Mario Testino

L-R Céline, Comme des Garçons, Haider Ackermann | Source: Style.com

On Paris Catwalks, Emotion Recollected in Tranquility (IHT) “The post-power woman — purposeful but never aggressive — dug to the depths of women’s desires at Céline on Sunday. You could tell that the designer Phoebe Philo had put much of herself in the spring/summer 2012 collection because she was shaking with emotion backstage. ‘Strength and womanhood, effortless and beautiful,’ Ms. Philo said to sum up a

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Beyoncé’s fashion bug, Hermès continues ascent, Star designers, Ad pages creep upwards, Phoebe’s Céline dream

Beyonce | Source: Internation Herald Tribune

For Her New Look, Beyoncé Goes Under the Radar (IHT) “The difference, this time, is in her choice of designers. Instead of sticking to major fashion houses like Versace, Gucci, Prada or Chanel, the singer has thrown the spotlight on a number of up-and-coming designers whose names are likely to be unfamiliar to all but the most diehard fashion followers.” Luxury group Hermes raises 2011 sales forecast (Reuters)

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Autumn/Winter 2011 – The Season That Was

John Galliano | Source: The Creator Blog

PARIS, France – The process of writing this season’s wrap-up left a somewhat bitter taste in my mouth. Looking back, several of the most salient themes from this round of fashion weeks involve unsavoury behaviour, gossip and highly unprofessional comments from some of the industry’s most important figures. Whether it was John Galliano’s inexcusable anti-Semitic rant captured on video for the whole world to watch, the scrum of

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Women designers at the fore, Surge in luxe demand, Optimism returns, Online ad spend, Paris’ mature tone

Stella McCartney Spring 2011 Look Book | Source: Stella McCartney

Women Designers and the Quiet Revolution (Guardian Weekend) “From Phoebe Philo at Céline to Stella McCartney to Hannah MacGibbon at Chloé, women designers are at the forefront of fashion right now… When women design clothes for women, they do it differently. For women, clothes are not just seen, they are felt from the inside.” Luxury stores caught out by surge in demand (FT) “[Louis Vuitton] is not the only

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Tom Ford’s glamorous coup, Turning up the value, Playgrounds as runways, Measuring social content, The Céline factor

Tom Ford by Terry Richardson | Source: Tom Ford

Glamorously, Tom Ford Is Back (NY Times) “Explaining why he didn’t allow pictures, Mr. Ford said that fashion had become overexposed in recent years… ‘I want fashion to be fun again… You couldn’t wait to get the clothes and put them on, and I think we’ve lost that.'” Luxury-Goods Firms Turn Up Volume on Value (WSJ) “Luxury-goods retailers are coming to grips with the reality that

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Olivier’s originality, Abercrombie keeps discounting, Burberry sues TJX, Céline’s clean slate, Vuitton’s décolleté

Olivier Zahm by Terry Richardson | Source: purple DIARY

The Future Of Fashion: Olivier Zahm (Style.com) “The French editor and founder of the twice-yearly independent publication Purple Fashion has many other passions… but in an increasingly conformist world, Zahm offers an original, entertaining, and astute voice.” Abercrombie Will Keep Discounting (WSJ) “Abercrombie & Fitch said… it will continue its uncharacteristically high levels of discounting

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Fashion’s family values, Céline’s new sensation, Jimmy Choo’s fragrance, Paper endures, Giles in Paris

Reiss A/W 09 | Source: Reiss

When a Bottom Line Isn’t Just About Profit (New York Times) “As the fashion industry struggles with a global economic downturn and a rapidly changing consumer landscape, qualities that are at the heart of family and owner/founder businesses, like a consistent vision and a long-term approach, seem to be helping those companies ride out the storm.” Fashion house Celine says 2009 year of transition (Reuters)

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Phoebe’s philosophy, The Economist on LVMH, Cavalli on department stores, Cycling chic, Luxury thrives in Asia

Céline ad campaign, courtesy of Céline

Fast-Forward Phoebe (Vogue) “Phoebe Philo always had an uncanny gift for defining exactly what cool women want to wear. Now she’s back, reinventing Céline for a new era.” LVMH in a recession: The substance of style (The Economist) “The world’s biggest luxury-goods group is benefiting from a flight to quality, but the recession is also prompting questions about the company’s breadth and balance.”

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Ittierre’s bankruptcy, January discounts, Phoebe Philo at Céline, American Eagle sues Citibank, Twitter trends

IT Holding’s Ittierre Unit to File for Bankruptcy (Bloomberg) Ittierre, the parent company of Malo and Ferré files for Bankruptcy Discounting drives January sales (Drapers) In the UK, deep discounts drove January sales but clothing sales dropped to its lowest rate. Phoebe Philo is redefining soul of Céline (IHT) With Phoebe Philo at the helm, “the focus is to redefine the soul of Céline, which started out as a

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