LVMH Lecture Theatre at Central Saint Martins, Kings Cross | Source: LVMH

LVMH and Central St Martins Partnership (Vogue UK)
“Central St Martins new Kings Cross building will feature a state-of-the-art lecture theatre sponsored by LVMH. The luxury conglomerate has also announced plans for a scholarship programme to recruit promising designers from the university for its stable of brands.”

Tamara Mellon leaves Jimmy Choo (FT)
“Tamara Mellon has stepped down from Jimmy Choo, the footwear and accessories brand she founded 15 years ago, following its takeover and integration with Labelux, the private Italian luxury goods group… In 1996 Ms Mellon transformed a small business set up by Jimmy Choo, a cobbler from east London. The business has also branched out into accessories such as handbags and scarves, as well as fragrances.”

A new frontier for big brands (FT)
“In Paris, at 23 Place Vendôme next year, Louis Vuitton will open the first boutique dedicated to its fine jewellery. It is a significant move for the industry… As is usual with Louis Vuitton, a decision by the world’s most successful luxury brand to make a decisive step into a new market is a signal of shifts in the industry… But expectations are that jewellery’s switch from a predominantly craft market to a new frontier for big brands is under way.”

Big in Japan: Paul Smith’s focus shifts to the East (Telegraph)
“The designer has, however, recently fixed his gaze eastwards, staging a fashion show in Japan for the first time in his career. Entitled I Love Japan, the show marked the launch of Japan’s first major fashion event since the March 11 earthquake, tsunami and nuclear crisis… In the case of Paul Smith, the designer’s affection for Japan has clearly returned – reflected in both the number of boutiques and department stores across the country and sales figures.”

Fashion retailing catalogs turn a page (LA Times)
“Alluring as print catalogs may be, an increasing number of retailers — Bloomingdales, Nordstrom and J. Crew among them — aren’t just mailing them to their customers. They’re going digital, showing off this season’s lace-trimmed dresses and faux-fur vests in free downloadable apps that mimic the traditional catalog experience, minus the print.”

The Fred Hayman Place sign, Los Angeles | Source: Fred Hayman Archives

Fred Hayman: The man behind Rodeo Drive (LA Times)
“He’s been called the godfather of Rodeo Drive. And it’s not all hyperbole. Before Beverly Hills was the land of designer logos… Hayman was an architect of luxury in Los Angeles, bringing high fashion, a social shopping atmosphere and white glove service to what was still a sleepy main street when he went into retail in 1967.”

Prada IPO five times subscribed (Reuters)
“Italian fashion house Prada, which is seeking to raise up to $2.6 billion through a Hong Kong IPO, has generated five times demand for its offer… The Milan fashion house, known for its leather handbags, brightly-coloured shoes and long boots, launched the retail portion of the IPO on Sunday.”

Tory Burch Awarded $164 Million in Anti-Counterfeiting Suit (Thread NY)
“The company has been ceded control of the fake-product domain names, and given power to disable future websites set up by the offenders… The victory marks a significant step towards combatting the problem of trademark infringement in the fashion industry.”

Philip Treacy on Ascot (WSJ)
“Treacy has been the last word in hat making since graduating from the Royal College of Art in 1990, thanks to initial ‘sponsors’ like the late, great Isabella Blow, Madonna and, more latterly, Lady Gaga. But since the Royal Wedding he says he has been unable to keep up with demand both here and in the U.S.”

Feting an Ending, and a New Start (IHT)
“Why has ‘Saint Martins’ become a by-word for excellence? It is one of many colleges showing in London last week. All have in common the concept of nurturing creativity and individuality to push fashion forward and to allow the students to make work that is a mirror image of an ever-changing world.”

The New Creative Establishment | Source: INDUSTRIE Magazine

LONDON, United Kingdom — Today, The Business of Fashion brings you an exclusive preview of The New Creative Establishment, a list of the 50 most influential and inspirational creatives working in fashion today, developed by our friends at INDUSTRIE magazine for their second issue which comes out later this month and was inspired by a much-watched list with a similar name published by Vanity Fair called ‘The New Establishment’.

Ever since the widely-read debut issue of INDUSTRIE hit the stands last May, editors Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson have been carefully creating their list which they say is a “celebration of creativity in fashion.” After the first draft of the list was developed, they sought feedback from fashion insiders and peers, and re-iterated the list several times. The emphasis is on the word ‘new’ as there are obviously some very important longtime names who continue to wield great influence who are not on the list. In the end, “those listed were selected not only for their creative faculties/creative contribution to fashion today but also because of the wider impact their work has had on fashion business, the social and other creative industries.”

So, without further ado, here is The New Creative Establishment from INDUSTRIE magazine. What are your thoughts and opinions? Who deserves to be on the list? Is anyone missing? And what do you think of fashion power lists in general?

… Continue Reading

Emilio Pucci in his workshop, 1950s | Source: Life in Italy

Without the Prints, Can It Still Be a Pucci? (WSJ)
“Under the hand of designer Peter Dundas, the six-decade-old fashion house is reinventing itself as an It brand. In the process, it is shifting its emphasis from kaleidoscopic cruisewear to cocktail dresses and sweeping gowns.”

Oscar de la Renta continues expansion (Reuters)
“‘We continue to offer, and continue to sell, $20,000-plus off-the-rack women’s evening gowns… On the other hand… a blouse that might have sold for $1,000 three years ago may now sell for $500.’”

Luxury sector to see niche deals (Reuters)
“The next aspiring Marc Jacobs or Stella McCartney may find it harder to get financial backing as luxury dealmakers target well-established brands for growth and top design houses begin paring smaller assets.”

Online, luxury strong, but apparel off (Reuters)
“Luxury items, jewelry and products sold online were the fastest-growing U.S. sales categories in the retail sector in May, but weakness in apparel and electronics suggest consumers may still be wary in their spending.”

CSM’s Graduate Show: The Clothes, The Designers, The Stars (Fashionista)
“London’s Central St. Martins College of Art served up 40 of its most promising talents to industry recruiters… With inflating Helmut Newton inspired pieces and a show-closing collection modeled on stilts, this was undoubtedly one for the books.”

Thomas Tait’s Sketchbook | Source: Thomas Tait

LONDON, United Kingdom — Each year, more than 4,000 design students graduate from fashion colleges across the UK.  But there are only about 500 new jobs available for them, leaving thousands of young designers to move abroad or start their own labels. The vast majority of these have absolutely no business training whatsoever.

For Thomas Tait — one of the most buzzed-about new graduates from Central Saint Martins, one of the UK’s leading fashion schools — and hundreds of other budding designers around the UK, PR and fame are not enough. There are also the practical necessities of developing a viable fashion business: raising funds, setting up a studio, hiring staff, securing production, creating a new collection and, ultimately convincing buyers that they should place an order because the clothes will actually arrive on time, as promised, ready to be sold.

… Continue Reading