Colin’s Column | Something Is Rotten in the State of Fashion

Chanel Couture | Source: The New York Times

LONDON, United Kingdom — Death and disgrace do not often darken the world of fashion. In the case of the first, a designer normally dies long after retirement and his demise is of only local interest. In the case of the second, it rarely happens and can usually be covered up by one means or another. But in the last eighteen months there have been two tragedies that can neither be covered up, nor ignored. They are, of course, the

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Acne’s Empire, Landmark counterfeit suit, Valentino in demand, Chanel’s scenery, Forever Bip Ling

Thomas Persson photographed by Clement Dauvent | Source: Interview Magazine

Northern Discretion: Thomas Persson of Acne Paper (Interview) “When Acne Paper was founded in 2004 as a literary prong of the multi-faceted Swedish denim empire, it faced a challenge: having to prove its creative independence, and its worthiness beyond being a fancy bit of advertising.” Louis Vuitton, Burberry Win Millions in Landmark Canadian Counterfeit Suit (Forbes) “Louis Vuitton and Burberry have won significant damages in

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CEO Talk | Harry Wang, Chief Executive Officer, Shiatzy Chen

Harry Wang | Source: Shiatzy Chen

PARIS, France — Long before the question arose about who would create the first Chinese luxury brand, Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia set up Shiatzy Chen to explore her tailoring skills and budding interest in serving the local luxury market in Taiwan. Fast forward thirty years, and Ms. Wang now has a business with a turnover of more than $60m and growing, built through hard work, perseverance and — in the Chinese tradition — the support of

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Prada’s editorial domination, Charney under fire, D&G’s new strategy, Asos apprenticeships, Maison Lemarié

Don Charney under fire | Source: Jezebel

Prada’s Spring Collection Lands 48 Covers (Fashionista) “Last season it was Miu Miu, specifically that one appliqued dress, that kept appearing on cover after cover. This season, Prada’s spring 2011 is sweeping the glossy covers… So far Prada’s colorful stripey bananas collection has seen 48 covers (that we’ve counted) and starred in countless editorials.” He’s Only Just Begun to Fight (NY Times) “To many,

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Mugler’s digital world, Gilhart on sustainability, Puig in lead for Gaultier, Carine and Karl, Carven’s Henry

Mugler's pre-show and backstage live stream | Courtesy Photo

Mugler’s Digital World (WWD) “‘My job was to resurrect the brand, and to pump it up and bring it to the new decade… I had this amazing history and archive but there was nothing for me to work with to make it contemporary. For me, it was taking those amazing historical ideas and transforming them digitally. I design digitally, I communicate digitally, and I live digitally, and I wanted to incorporate that

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Top 10 Fashion Films of the Season

LONDON, United Kingdom — This season, fashion brands embraced fashion film like never before, integrating digital videos more meaningfully into a wide spectrum of communications strategies, from Nicola Formichetti’s formidable social media machine for the House of Mugler to Tom Ford’s contrarian approach that defied the industry trend towards greater access and immediacy. In past seasons, fashion films have often been geared at

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Fire and Ice, Leather supply squeeze, Independent jewellers to struggle, D&G line to fold, Pressure cooker

L-R Alexander McQueen, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Style.com

Chanel provides the fire, McQueen the ice (Independent) “The mood in fashion is changing. The sight of a waif-like female stepping out in a heavily embellished, barely-there cocktail dress now seems dated. Lagerfeld’s status as the last of the great, traditionally trained couturiers is undisputed. He is also enough of a modernist, however, to respond to the zeitgeist and his reaction made for impressive viewing.”

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Brands Experiment with Weibo, China’s Answer to Twitter

Gucci brand page on Sina Weibo | Source: Weibo

SHANGHAI, China — In the parallel internet universe behind China’s “Great Firewall,” where search engine Baidu is Google, etailer Dangdang is Amazon, and video sharing site Youku is YouTube, the microblogging service Weibo (pronounced Way-Bwah, literally microblog) — launched in August 2009 by online media giant Sina Corp — has emerged as the country’s answer to Twitter. According to brokerage and investment group CLSA Asia-Pacific

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Sleek luxe in Milan, Kiddie couturiers, Saks turns a profit, Chatting with Della Valle, Event producers in focus

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2011 details | Source: Style.com

Sleek and Luxe (IHT) “‘I wanted to play with color, a little of the 1970s and a lot of irony,’ said Ms. Giannini backstage, after the parade of fabulous Ms. Fox furs in turquoise, purple, rust and lilac wrapped around the shoulders above slim leather dresses or those sporty jackets with pleated culotte skirts that looked a lot like Yves Saint Laurent archives updated.” The Kiddie Couturiers (NY Times)

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Chinese New Year shopping, Japanese youth reject luxe, Aritzia’s US rollout, Record year for LVMH, Chanel culture in China

Shopping mall in Nanjing, Jiangsu province | Source: The Star

Retailers Turn Lunar New Year Into a Shopping Spree (WSJ) “‘Without question, we’re seeing a shift as years go by to more commercial activation around the major holidays… Retailers understand that it has worked for Christmas and it’ll probably work with Chinese New Year as well.'” Japan’s young generation closes ‘luxury wallet’ (Independent) “As a result of its economic collapse,

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Prada’s China Party, Denim couture, Social networks versus social tribes, Luxottica’s record, Giles goes West

Prada Prods China’s Elite (WSJ) “For Prada, in particular, the Chinese market is critical. The company is expected to announce this week plans for an initial public offering on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange. Its valuation would likely be higher in Hong Kong than in other market.” Chanel swaps pearls and operatic grandeur for T-shirts and flats (Guardian) “‘This is the way young women dress nowadays,’

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Scents that sold in 2010, Menswear’s back, Tumblr at NYFW, Ones to watch at Pitti, Sarah Burton’s way

Daphne Guinness | Source: Zoo Magazine

Smells like 2010 (NY Times) “It’s long been known that December sales of fragrances can make or break the entire year. Indeed, a perfume’s annual performance can be determined by purchases not only the week before Christmas, but those of the morning of the 25th.” Is Men’s Wear Back? (WWD) “Yes — and you can credit the recession. Behavioral experts say shopping doesn’t come naturally to most men, yet men’s

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Murky outlook, PPR beats estimates, Chanel’s US recovery, M-commerce grows at Rue La La, Theyskens and Rosen Q&A

Bottega Veneta Tech Toys | Source: Bottega Veneta

Luxury market faces spending drought through 2020 (Luxury Daily) “The tough economy has permanently reined in the purchasing habits of the current generation of affluent consumers and upscale brands should expect more conservative spending until Generation Y enters the luxury market in force in 2020.” PPR Third-Quarter Sales Beat Estimates (Bloomberg) “Each of PPR’s luxury brands increased sales at least 10

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