François Lesage | Source: Simple Virtues

‘Big O’ Birthdays for Generations of Designers (IHT)
“The loss last week of François Lesage, the beating heart of Parisian embroidery, at age 82, marks fashion history. A mighty tree in the landscape of haute couture has fallen… Fashion has a way of holding up a mirror to the wider world. But in the fading days of 2011, the bellwether is not about changes in style. It’s about designers themselves and a seismic generational shift.”

Hermès sees 10 percent growth in 2012 (Reuters)
“French luxury goods group Hermès expects sales growth of 10 percent next year, with trends in the current quarter broadly in line with the rest of the year… Last month, Hermès raised its full-year sales forecast to between 15 and 16 percent, reflecting strong demand in Asia, Europe and America, up from a previous forecast of 12 to 14 percent.”

‘Cyber Week’ Sets New Record With $6 Billion Take (Mashable)
“Online sales for the so-called “Cyber Week” that ended on on Dec. 2 were just shy of $6 billion, setting a record, according to comScore. With an estimated $1.25 billion take, Cyber Monday 2011, Nov. 28, was only the second billion-dollar day for online U.S. sales in history, following the equivalent day in 2010.”

China’s answer to Prada? (Telegraph)
“Just as Western luxury brands colonise and coin it in China, it is inevitable that Chinese companies will want to do the same right back. While some might currently be lacking in savoir faire , what those with big ambitions won’t lack is money; Beijing and Shanghai are packed with newly minted billionaires looking for glamorous investment opportunities.”

What Women Want: Jonathan Saunders (Independent)
“Saunders is nothing if not serious about his work – so much is evident in his sliced and precise patterns, a signature lightness that never becomes frothy, and his attention to detail. But he also speaks about the clothes he makes with a businesslike sense of creating merchandise – a hangover from his original line of work in product design.”

Shanghai Tang Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Shanghai Tang

Can China Produce A Luxury Brand? (Forbes)
“China is more known as a luxury consumer rather than a producer. And while it is a manufacturing hub for many global labels and retailers, it has yet to produce its own luxury brand in the manner of Hermes or Louis Vuitton. True, it took centuries for Hermes and Louis Vuitton to become what they are today, but these questions begged to be asked: Are there Chinese labels that are poised to become the Hermes of tomorrow?”

Oscar de la Renta to Launch F-Commerce (WWD)
“Oscar de la Renta is the first luxury brand to launch a Facebook commerce, or F-commerce, initiative contained entirely on the social medium where it has over 283,000 followers… It is the first to offer a commerce experience from beginning to end without leaving Facebook. In fact, the whole transaction can be done either on a tab on the brand’s page or, if the user prefers, without even leaving his or her newsfeed.”

Adidas raises 2011 outlook on emerging markets (Reuters)
“Germany’s Adidas lifted its 2011 sales outlook on strong demand for its sporting goods in emerging markets and as it expands its high margin brand-name stores… This is the fourth time this year Adidas has upgraded its sales forecast as demand for its three-stripe branded products soars, with running shoes and fashion products proving especially popular with U.S. and Chinese consumers.”

Fitted Fashion Uses 3D Scanners to Create Custom-Fit Jeans (Mashable)
“The single most challenging item of clothing to shop for is jeans… Fitted Fashion, a recent graduate of startup incubator Betaspring, is one of several startups aiming to address that problem. The company is currently testing 3D body scanners alongside its own pattern-making software to develop custom jeans and suits, among other items.”

Prabal Gurung: the red carpet’s new darling (Telegraph)
“You may not recognise the name, but we’re sure you will have seen one of Prabal Gurung’s designs before. The New York based designer has slipped under the radar for a few years now, but he is finally having his moment in the limelight… It has only been in the last twelve months that celebrities have been clambering over themselves to wear Gurung on the red carpet.”

Manolo Blahnik | Source: Briseis

In His Shoes (NY Times)
“This is the tale of the little stiletto that could, a shoe that in the long-ago days of the luxury-goods boom scampered to the top of a rarefied heap. It was just a handful of years ago that the name of Manolo Blahnik, a 68-year-old London cobbler born in the Canary Islands, was familiar only to hard-core fashion hunters and residents of ZIP code 10021.”

Prada forecasts China sales to triple in 2-3 years (Reuters)
“Italian fashion house Prada sees strong growth in China, with sales expected to triple in coming years… The luxury market would not closely track economic weakness, and Prada was optimistic over growth in Asia particularly in China, where sales are expected to double or even triple in the next two to three years, Deputy Chairman Carlo Mazzi told reporters.”

No logo (FT)
“The appeal of living large hasn’t disappeared but it seems the logos associated with lavish lifestyles have. When it comes to statement accessories, brands as diverse as Victoria Beckham and Céline are whispering their exclusivity amid a growing consensus that ‘anonymity’ is the key to being recognised.”

China Leads World in Luxury Spending (Forbes)
“Affluent consumers in the U.S. and much of the world are pulling back on their spending and attitude toward luxury. However, in China, affluent consumers are choosing luxury in every aspect of the lives, according to a seven-country survey of households earning at least $150,000.”

Steve Jobs: fashion inspiration (FT)
“…By ‘fashion’ I mean the industry at large. It owes an entire product category – and possibly more, possibly the whole concept of brand extension – to Jobs. Without him, would it have ever occurred to anyone that technology could be an aspirational accessory that would itself spawn more aspirational accessories that could be changed season to season, niche collection to niche collection, ad infinitum?”

Gucci Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Gucci

China vs. America: Who Loves Shopping More? (Forbes)
“Americans are portrayed as the world’s ultimate consumers… But a new survey says that consumers in China were more than twice as likely as Americans to not only enjoy clothes shopping, but to love it… They’re consuming in a particularly conspicuous, showy fashion.”

In Paris, Sensuality Saves the Day (NY Times)
“Maybe it’s too many hours on Twitter that causes people to reduce fashion shows to a check-off list of essentials, but whatever it is, writers at the spring men’s collections here were ticking the appropriate boxes: globalism, gender games, the new sobriety.”

Offering Web Buyers a Thrill of Discovery (NY Times)
“Many consumers would say the Internet has improved shopping… But have we lost the thrill of discovery? Shauna Mei, an entrepreneur… introduced AHAlife, a Web site that offers niche products suggested by a variety of ‘trendsetters and tastemakers.’”

Online shopping bought for you in store by actual people (Independent)
“A new company’s employees go shopping for you to reduce delivery times, packaging, and shipping fees. Suddenlee.com guarantees ‘next-day delivery from over 300 retailers in a single box’…  Items from different stores including Zara, H&M and Macy’s can be added together… To the same virtual shopping basket.”

Anthony Vaccarello Wins ANDAM Prize (The Cut)
“31-year-old Paris-based designer Anthony Vaccarello will receive €200,000, € 10,000 worth of Swarovski crystals for his spring 2012 collection, and mentorship from former Chloé CEO Ralph Toledano…Recent ANDAM winners include Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh, and Hakaan.”

Bernardo Huberman explains HP Labs research | Source: Youtube

Got Twitter? You’ve Been Scored (NY Times)
“Imagine a world in which we are assigned a number that indicates how influential we are… If your influence score is low, you don’t get the promotion, the suite or the complimentary cookies. This is not science fiction. It’s happening to millions of social network users.”

Skirting the Issue of Gender (IHT)
“Men in skirts or men in suits?… Out pop the same challenges every menswear season. But the gender play in the spring/summer 2012 Paris shows seems more intriguing. Designers are looking at a global market that includes cultures… where male/female garments are fluid.”

Emerging markets: luxury goes local (FT)
“Western consumers might be familiar with the first names in these pairs, but many will probably have never heard of the others. Yet wealthy consumers in emerging markets are increasingly facing a choice of whether to buy western brands as a status symbol or to opt for homegrown luxury.”

At Vuitton, Growth in Small Batches (WSJ)
“Nestled in the hills of central France, Louis Vuitton’s new factory—inaugurated Friday—expands the luxury label’s production capacity by 70 people… Vuitton’s growth over the years means it is constantly bumping up against its full production capacity.”

25 Influential Chinese In Global Fashion (Forbes)
“This year’s list of 25 influential Chinese in global fashion focuses on executives and entrepreneurs that are leading the charge. We include for the first time leaders at multinational fashion companies that are playing a crucial role in those foreign firms’ success in China.”

Louis Vuitton store in Mongolian capital, Ulaanbaatar | Source: Courtesy LV

The Luxury Frontier (WSJ)
“What happens when a country previously hindered by vastness and foreign rule awakens to wealth on its doorstep? With Louis Vuitton on one corner and one of the world’s largest gold deposits down the road, the previously nomadic society of Mongolia is putting down some rich roots.”

Paris Men’s: Dude Surfers (On the Runway)
“The Paris men’s shows could always surprise with a great venue, or staging, or casting that conveyed the spirit of the designs. But Thursday’s shows put out so little energy that they made a case for seeing the clothes in the showroom. Or catching them later online.”

Prada Is Making Fashion in China (WSJ)
“About 20% of Prada’s collections… are made in China. The Milan-based company manufactures outside Italy in other cheaper countries such as Vietnam, Turkey and Romania… ‘Sooner or later, it will happen to everyone because [Chinese manufacturing] is so good,’ Prada designer Miuccia Prada said in an interview.”

Uniqlo and Jil Sander part ways (Telegraph)
“The German fashion designer Jil Sander, feted for her minimalist aesthetic, and Japanese retailer Uniqlo, are to part ways after working together for almost three years. The +J collection , which was launched in 2009… will make its final foray into stores with a range for this coming autumn and winter.”

What Has Pierre Cardin Been Up To? (WSJ)
“The legendary fashion designer has purchased a vast array of buildings there over the past decade, and, the locals advised me, he was taking a hands-on approach to their reconstruction. His acquisitions now number more than 40, the most famous being the château of the notorious 18th-century libertine the Marquis de Sade.”

Bottega Veneta Mens Spring 2010 | Source: Style.com

In the Money! (IHT)
“The changes are more profound than just strong sales figures, which, in the end, will be counterbalanced by weak numbers from other regions and financial fears about the euro zone. Italian fashion is undergoing the change from successful family-owned brands to multinational conglomerates.”

Branding the Baby (WSJ)
“Although there were a few early adopters, such as Armani and Stella McCartney’s wildly popular collections for the Gap, the fashion world’s enthusiasm for kids’ clothing has reached a frenzied pitch this year, with design houses adapting popular ready-to-wear looks, allowing moms and dads to match their tots.”

China to cut import duties on luxury goods soon (Reuters)
“China, already the world’s second-largest luxury goods market, will soon slash import duties on opulent items… The bid to keep well-heeled Chinese shoppers at home is in line with Beijing’s over-arching plan to boost domestic consumption and cut China’s dependence on exports to drive its economy.”

Createthe Group Buys Morpheus Media (WWD)
“‘We’ve been looking to strategically build our media offerings because we find that our clients are looking for a full-service approach,’ said Createthe Group’s founder and chief executive officer James Gardner. ‘We found that Morpheus was able to provide complementary offerings [to ours].’”

The wayward genius of Brian Duffy (Telegraph)
“Close to breakdown, the outspoken photographer Brian Duffy decided to burn all his iconic images from the 1960s and 70s. But he reckoned without a worldwide search for lost negatives – now published in a new book.”

Wonder Girls for Chloé | Source: Luxuo

In China, Women Begin Splurging (WSJ)
“‘Many people are inclined to believe that gentlemen are generously purchasing luxury gifts for women in China, but our observation is that the great majority [of the buyers] are women who have achieved great success in their business and are now rewarding themselves with the finer things in life.’”

GQ, Gilt Groupe Team Up on E-Commerce Site (Ad Week)
“Gilt Groupe’s Park & Bond, an upcoming online retail spin-off for men, will host a GQ online store that will feature items picked by the magazine’s editors. Starting with the September issue, the picks will be marked in the magazine as well as on GQ.com, which will send shoppers to the e-commerce site.”

Resort isn’t a season for fashion to take a break (AP)
“The resort season is not a time for fashion to take a vacation. Resort collections, which hit stores during the all-important Christmas holiday shopping season, are a growing part of designer businesses as consumers move toward styles they can wear year-round.”

City speculates on Abercrombie bid for SuperGroup (Retail Week)
“US retailer Abercrombie & Fitch may be interested in acquiring trendy fashion retailer SuperGroup, City speculators believe… Shares in SuperGroup, which floated last year and subsequently rocketed, have fallen lately on fears of a sales slowdown.”

Jean Paul Gaultier lands in Montreal (Montreal Gazette)
“The object of the show… is to allow the public an up-close view of haute couture, which only those invited to the shows in Paris or the very few clients of haute couture in the world can see.”

Lanvin Petite | Source: Courtesy of Lanvin

Little Luxuries: Designer Apparel for Children is the Next Big Thing (Forbes)
“Move over fast fashion collaborations, another way haute designers will reach more consumers this year is by crafting luxury clothing for the scooter set… Back to school will bring even more designer collections to the playground.”

Can Prada get away with a luxury valuation? (CTV News)
“The price range looks rich. The question is whether the voracious Chinese appetite for luxury brands will let Prada get away with a luxury valuation… [The IPO]values Prada at as much as 28 times the company’s estimated 2011 profit. Six other luxury-goods companies, among the LVMH and Burberry, trade at an average of 21 times forecast earnings.”

Luxury shopping websites offer China a cheaper alternative (Relaxnews)
“These canny operators have found a way to keep their nation’s brand-hungry consumers satisfied – and it involves buying older ‘out-of-date’ items from the luxury brands in Europe and the United States, and then selling them in China at prices way reduced from their original ones.”

Gilt Groupe to Launch Full-Price Men’s Retail Website (Just Luxe)
“Park & Bond will be the Gilt Groupe’s full-price men’s retail website that will launch in late summer this year. The upscale fashion portal for men will feature 80 luxury brands and cover multiple categories. The premise of the nomenclature is classic, timeless, hip and contemporary.”

The 11 Best Fashion Brands to Follow on Tumblr (Fashionista)
“It makes sense that fashion brands have glommed onto Tumblr. The microblogging platform’s highly visual nature is a perfect fit for fashion brands to showcase their identities in creative and subtle ways. Of course, some brands are much better at it than others. Here are the brands we think are using Tumblr best right now.”

Marc Jacobs | Source: Wajima

Marc Jacobs: The Survivor (NY Times)
“Call him a genius. Call him a junkie, an original, a shameless copycat, a winsome recluse, a brazen exhibitionist. Marc Jacobs has heard it all. And he has absorbed it all with a hard-won equanimity.”

One size does not fit all (FT)
“Sizing is a national issue: whether fashion brands are upscaling their definition of a size four for the upscaled US consumer, shrinking their purses for Japan, or… launching a new shoe shape specifically for the Hong Kong foot.”

Global luxury brands flock to Hong Kong bourse (AFP)
“Some of the world’s top luxury brands are set to list on the Hong Kong bourse to tap China’s deep capital markets — and draw more customers… China is forecast to be the world’s top buyer of products such as cosmetics, handbags, watches, shoes and clothes by 2015.”

Asos sales boosted by international growth (BBC)
“Asos has reported a sharp rise in full-year revenue as sales at the online fashion retailer’s international business continue to grow rapidly… “I am pleased to report another successful year for Asos,” said the group’s chief executive Nick Robertson.”

Vuitton’s Intrepid Effort to Court China’s Tourists (WSJ China Real Time Report)
“LV’s museum partnership also fits into China’s recent art rage. According to a report commissioned by the European Fine Art Foundation, China is now the world’s second-largest market for art and antiques.”