Shoemaking renaissance, Jones eyes Jimmy Choo, China’s challenges, Museum couture, González’s poetry

Allen Edmonds' McAllister shoe | Source: Allen Edmonds

At Their Feet, Crafted by Hand (NY Times) “It has not been lost on workers at Allen Edmonds, or those at about a half-dozen shoe companies that still produce in the United States, that the craft of shoemaking is experiencing something of a renaissance. Over the last few years, as heritage brands have been rediscovered by a new generation of customers, especially young men.” Jones Group one of bidders for Jimmy Choo

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Putting China first, Designers out at Ferré, Gap’s overseas push, Bulgari sales sparkle, Fashion theatre

China First: Coaxing or Kowtowing? (Luxury Society) "Last Wednesday, Burberry joined the ranks of such other megabrands in this quest to show China not only that they mean business but that they are putting the country first... Offering a technologically enhanced ‘debut’ geared toward China’s youth is also a strategic one, considering that 73% of luxury buyers in China are under the age of 45." Aquilano and Rimondi out at Gianfranco Ferré (Fashion Etc) "When questioned about the designers' fates at the label's Fall 2011 show in February, Paris Group's Abdulkader Sankari and his son Ahmed are said to have cut Aquilano and Rimondi loose in the face of weak sales figures. 'Sales didn’t go well at all and the…

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Dressing pop stars, Bottega Veneta’s ambition, Burberry reinvests in London, The young Chinese, H&M’s Johansson

Rihanna wears Hervé Léger by Max Azria | Source: Vogue US

Why designers love to dress pop music’s leading ladies (Independent) “A quick glance at red carpeted occasions explains why designers, while still happy to dress actors – from fledgling talent to veritable superstars – might find working with their musical counterparts more inspiring.” Bottega Veneta expands with bags of ambition (FT) “Bottega Veneta, which has built a reputation as a discreet, logo-free

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Value suiting, Online sales double, Shanghai counterfeits, William’s missed moment, Preserving Prada’s show sets

Brooks Brothers Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Brooks Brothers

A Hard-Working Suit (WSJ) “There are more suits priced between $500 and $700 that include features once found typically on more expensive suits: fine Italian fabrics, modern cuts and narrow lapels. The goal is to attract younger men who increasingly want the current fitted, formal styles as opposed to the boxy suits and more casual officewear of their dads.” Online clothing sales double (Telegraph) “Over a third

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Menswear goes formal, Gap for the people, Burberry’s digital China, E-commerce gains, Students rent the runway

E. Tautz Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: E. Tautz

Menswear’s Formal Acceptance (WSJ) “Jeremy Langmead, editor in chief of the recently unveiled men’s retailing website Mr Porter, thinks the tailoring turnaround heralds a return to the desire for rules. ‘If you have parents who grew up in the ’60s and ’70s, they already rejected all the rules where dressing was concerned. This is a new generation who is interested in learning how to tie a Windsor

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Joe Zee: Fashion’s chatty ambassador, New wealthy, Ones to watch in China, CFDA nominees, Westwood’s imagery

Louis Vuitton, limited edition 5 Canton Road Shoes | Source: Nitrolicious

Fashion’s Approachable Ambassador (NY Times) “As fashion has evolved from an insular club to mass-market obsession — helped in part by proliferating Web sites, blogs and TV shows like ‘Project Runway’ — Mr. Zee, 42, has come to epitomize a new form of top-of-the-masthead personality. He is not the aloof style arbiter, gazing out silently behind Frisbee-size sunglasses, but a chatty and approachable ambassador of

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Bulgari goes global, New day for Valentino, Women in Luxe, Conspicuous and discreet in China, Fashion’s relentless pace

Bulgari Store, Rome | Source: Daylife

Bulgari under fire for global ambition (FT) In a globalised world, the relatively small scale of many Italian companies… is proving a problem that is shared by Italian industry at large… ‘The risk to independent brands is that if they do not have revenues of around €3bn [$4bn], they will probably lose market share.’ This is because it is too difficult to compete with companies such as LVMH. A new day for

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LFW delivers drama, America’s got talent, China’s blingdom, Gilt considers IPO, Fashion and immigration

L-R Issa, Topshop Unique, and House of Holland | Source: IHT

Catherine Versus Kate (IHT) “The marriages this year of Kate and Kate — the future Princess Catherine and the rock-on model Kate Moss — are stirring excitement in Britain… [LFW] is doing its best to deliver. As the liveliest city in the lineup of autumn 2011 show locations, there are designers to suit every need, from royal wedding to Goth glamour.” America’s got talent (FT) “The British may be invading the

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Less is more, Mulberry Men’s, Asia inspires aesthetics, Superdry’s retail superboost, Anya’s record year

Tom Ford's Spring/Summer 2011 presentation | Source: Nitrolicious

‘Less Is More’ Is Mattering Most (NY Times) “‘Why would you want to spend hundreds of thousands on a show when everybody’s on their BlackBerry and the clothes seem secondary… Intimacy, exclusivity and a chance to see the clothes: those are our priorities. We like exposure, but we want a more controlled exposure.’” Mulberry designer Emma Hill has men’s accessories in the bag (The Australian)

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Chinese New Year shopping, Japanese youth reject luxe, Aritzia’s US rollout, Record year for LVMH, Chanel culture in China

Shopping mall in Nanjing, Jiangsu province | Source: The Star

Retailers Turn Lunar New Year Into a Shopping Spree (WSJ) “‘Without question, we’re seeing a shift as years go by to more commercial activation around the major holidays… Retailers understand that it has worked for Christmas and it’ll probably work with Chinese New Year as well.’” Japan’s young generation closes ‘luxury wallet’ (Independent) “As a result of its economic

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Old is new again, China at the fore in 2020, Investing in Italy’s jewels, A virtual fit, Cat in the hat is back

The women of AMC's Mad Men | Source: AMCTV

This Old Thing? Actually, It’s New (NY Times) “‘People used to laugh at me when I tried to sell these kinds of clothes when I started’… said Alicia Estrada, 39, founder and chief executive of Stop Staring!… the pioneer in reproduction vintage clothing. ‘Now my clothes are sold in 40 countries and more than 1,000 boutiques.’” Dipped in gold, China to be world’s top luxury market

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Couture time, Asia’s thirst for luxury, Coach cost pressure, Pakistani fashion, Tod’s colossal Colosseum project

Christian Dior Couture 2011 | Source: Style.com

And Now Couture (On the Runway) “Not even 24 hours after the Paris men’s shows had ended they were a dim memory. The women had moved in for the spring haute couture shows, like a temperance league.” Asian shoppers thirst for luxury (BBC) “So many times in the past few decades, the insatiable appetite of the Americans [helped the world out of recession]… But if China’s emerging class of consumers put

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Fashion without boundaries, Luxury soles, Chinese choices, Oliveira Baptista’s Lacoste, Pugh’s fashion frescoes

Pushing Fashion Boundaries in an Era Without Any (NY Times) “In some ways, the focus on sexuality reflects the fairly narrow thinking of designers and photographers… the Internet represents a world that is livelier, more daring and actual than what currently takes place on runways and in mainstream magazines.” Stepping Into the Sole of Luxury (WSJ) “The U.K.’s reputation for making the finest cars,

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