Dunhill Shoes

LONDON, United Kingdom — There’s been quite a lot of talk about value lately. But what does value really mean, and how are different consumers evaluating their purchases?

Dunhill recently held a private sale in a discrete space in a Mayfair alley with some deeply discounted prices. It’s something many luxury companies have been doing to help shift stockpiles of their products in a way that doesn’t damage the brand. It’s easy to tell why most of the products are on sale at such low prices. There are flaws of some sort in the knitwear or the trousers are poorly cut or the print is ghastly. You tend to find these kinds of overstock products in available many replicates, in all sizes, proving they were of no interest to anyone at full price.

But sometimes, you come across something that seems one of a kind, special, and only available in one size: yours.

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At what point does referencing and inspiration turn into blatant copying? It’s a question that is increasingly on the minds of designers — particularly young designers and small brands — who don’t have the legal muscle (read: cold hard cash) and time to defend the integrity of their designs.

In other creative disciplines like music, writing and visual art, it is much easier to defend copying. In fashion, referencing, inspiration, and trends form the backbone of our industry (just check out this long list of adventures in fashion copyright). So, where do we draw the line?

Case 1:  Steve Madden
Sometimes it’s quite straightforward to see what is going on.  A post on Manolo’s shoe blog alerted us to this blatant copy of the Balenciaga sportiletto shoe. Some may find it amazing that anyone would even wear these shoes, but I find it amazing that any company would be so brazen as to rip designs off in this way. 

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The signature red sole of an $800 Christian Louboutin pump. The trademark intrecciato weave of a $4000 Bottega Veneta bag. The colourful inner lining of a $2500 Paul Smith suit. These are the markers of a movement being described by industry watchers as Discreet Luxury.

Tired of the logo-fixations of the 1990’s and early 2000’s, certain luxury customers, who don’t feel like shouting about their wealth to the world, are shunning logos for clothes and accessories that are unmarked — except for one usually understated detail that announces the item’s provenance and brand to those in the know.

Many of these consumers are in advanced luxury markets like Japan and Western Europe, and have exacting standards for quality, craftsmanship and authenticity. Therefore, also included in this growing segment are clothes about which stories can be told by the wearer — stories about why the garment is special, rare and authentic. This is apparently driving a boom in men’s luxury purchases in particular as it seems men like to tell stories to their buddies about the provenance of their threads.

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