Christian Dior Couture Spring 2012 | Source: Style.com

Dior Designer: On the Doorstep? (IHT)
“The black and white, filmic Christian Dior haute couture show on Monday marked nearly a year since John Galliano left the brand in disgrace. But Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed that there would be no announcement about a new designer this week and that the ‘suspense’ would continue.”

How the other half dress: Paris says merci as haute couture sales rise (Guardian)
“The demand for haute couture is a reflection of economic reality. Not of the recession, but of the polarisation of wealth. Fifteen years ago, there seemed little economic logic in creating beautiful dresses which cost 20 times more than those available in the top Bond Street boutiques. But the emergence of a super-rich strata of society, tiny in number but fabulously wealthy, has created a niche market for whom couture makes perfect sense.”

Now, Online-Only Fashion Shows for Busy Editors (On the Runway)
“KCD, the public relations company that produces fashion shows for top labels like Marc Jacobs and Givenchy, announced on Monday that it is offering a new service wherein it will produce some shows in an entirely digital format so that overtaxed editors can watch them online.”

Little Red (Litigious) Shoes (NY Times)
“This week a federal appellate court will hear arguments in a case involving this very question. The issue arises in connection with shoes, specifically, the vivid red soles beneath Christian Louboutin shoes.”

Fashion’s beautiful relationship with art (The National)
“There’s a real buzz about the vivid, almost saccharine sweet pastel shades that will define spring/summer 2012 fashion. That, and of course the other huge trend of the moment: thrilling prints and 3D textiles. Sometimes it’s hard to tell one from the other because the surface is textured, which heightens the overall trompe l’oeil effect of the print.”

Gianfranco Ferré Spring 2009 | Source: Por Homme

Ferré Struggles to Find Its Feet (WSJ)
“After Mr. Ferré passed away in 2007, the brand’s parent company IT Holding SpA went into government-backed bankruptcy administration in 2009. The brand functioned under bankruptcy receivership until Dubai-based retailer Paris Group bought the Italian label in March. Now, just seven months later, the house’s future is in question again after allegations of mismanagement under the new owners.”

How Spanish Brand Loewe Woos China (Forbes)
“Less than a month after its spring 2012 runway show in Paris, the Spanish luxury brand Loewe (famous worldwide for their leather) mounted a recreation of the full show in Hong Kong today, October 19. The full line up from the Paris show was flown over for the event. When you really think about it, the Hong Kong Loewe show was a much bigger affair than the one held in Paris because it had three different sessions for regional press.”

One Month, Too Much Fashion (NY Times)
“For some retailers and editors, who have complained of the ever-expanding duration of the shows and the feeling of being harassed to attend them all, it would be a welcome development for one city or another to fall by the wayside. Condé Nast editors have already sided with the teams in New York and London. It may be useful to remember that fashion capitals come and go. Cities like Florence, Rome and Barcelona once held greater status in a calendar now crowded with upstarts in New Delhi, Berlin and Seoul.”

Christian Louboutin Heads Back to Court Over Red Sole Trademark (The Cut)
“In August, Judge Victor Marrera ruled against Christian Louboutin’s request for a preliminary injunction to prevent Yves Saint Laurent from selling red-soled shoes…Filed Monday, the plaintiff’s appeal brief restates its arguments and focuses on what it deems Judge Marrero’s ‘errors of law in determining that Louboutin’s red outsole mark was likely invalid.’”

An Intellectual Fashion | Rick Owens (Another)
“The Californian Paris-based designer Rick Owens is famed for his artistic take on dressing, his avant-garde eye and his daring designs. Iconic in the fashion field, he also creates furniture and works intensely in connecting clothes with a deeper metaphysical and creative experience.”

London Fashion Week, Somerset House | Source: Zimbio

Battle of the catwalks as Milan clashes fashion week with London (Telegraph)
“Milan has announced that its fashion week next September will overlap those of New York and London, meaning that if no solution can be found, department store buyers and fashion magazine editors would be forced to choose one city over another.”

Burberry slumps on fears of end to Asian boom (Guardian)
“Shares in the British superbrand Burberry took a fresh pummelling as investors worried that the sun was setting on the luxury goods sales boom in Asia. Nearly £2bn has been wiped off Burberry’s market value in the past three months on fears that the Chinese economy has started to splutter.”

Stella McCartney Keeps It in Perspective (NY Times)
“Ms. McCartney also does not have that designer problem of reducing a woman’s life to one or two moments: work, a fancy party. She also makes outfits that strongly hint of home, like a piped pajama shirt worn with a matching foulard-dot pantsuit, or a loose sweater or easy all-in-one to wear to a casual dinner. And they are done with a slightly wacky sense of humor that one assumes reflects her own life and those of the people on her staff.”

H&M Targets Expansion in Asia (Bloomberg)
“Hennes & Mauritz, Europe’s second- largest clothing retailer, plans to step up the expansion of its new brands in Asia, anticipating that Chinese consumers will favor more-expensive labels such as Monki and COS… H&M is adding stores in China more rapidly than anywhere else, turning to the world’s fastest-growing major economy to help reverse falling profit.”

Christian Louboutin retrospective to open in London (Telegraph)
“Launching at the end of March 2012, London’s Design Museum will host an exhibition detailing the story of the shoe designer’s rise to the top of the glamorous footwear game, from his launch in 1991 to the present day, when he dresses the feet of everyone from Victoria Beckham to Lady Gaga.”

Gap cautious on full-year sales outlook (Reuters)
“Gap Inc Chief Executive Glenn Murphy said on Thursday that consumer sentiment may deteriorate in the second half of 2011 and was cautious about future sales growth at the apparel retailer… Gap has lost about a quarter of its market value this year as investors questioned the company’s ability to grow sales after several quarters of losing market share.”

Zara accused in Brazil sweatshop inquiry (Guardian)
“Retail fashion chain Zara is under investigation by Brazil’s ministry of labour after a contractor in São Paulo was found to be using employees in sweatshop conditions to make garments for the Spanish company… Zara is a family business founded in 1975 in La Coruña, north-west Spain by Amancio Ortega… According to Forbes magazine, half of production remains in Spain, with 26% per cent in Europe and the remainder spread around the world.”

Caution on Main Street: retailers fret ahead of key sales season (Reuters)
“Caution is the watchword for apparel executives heading into the all-important holiday season and their lack of confidence is scaring investors. Wary of talk of a double-dip recession, consumers are waiting on bargains, leaving retailers in the dark over how sales trends will turn out in the key year-end shopping season.”

Louis Vuitton’s “Big Store Strategy” Spreads (Jing Daily)
“Luxury giant Louis Vuitton has spent the last several years in China ramping up its inland expansion and rethinking its strategy in top-tier cities… A new LV store might not seem like big news, considering the brand is expanding perhaps more quickly than any other luxury brand in China, but in second- and third-tier markets, the arrival of Louis Vuitton means they’ve reached a certain level.”

Fashion; red in tooth and claw? (FT)
“The story so far: in 2008 Louboutin trademarked a lacquered red sole on footwear ( Pantone No. 18-1663 TP, or “Chinese Red,” FYI). In April this year Louboutin filed a trademark infringement lawsuit in New York saying that YSL had breached its copyright by using the red sole… Potentially worse for Christian Louboutin, who has another hearing in the case scheduled this Friday, the judge also implied that his 2008 trademark could be cancelled.”

Diego Della Valle | Source: Marie Claire

Lunch with the FT: Diego Della Valle (FT)
“Tod’s is a success story that continues to show impressive growth: half-year results of the €800m company released this week show sales up by 16.4 per cent from the corresponding period last year and net income up by 26.7 per cent… Tod’s is nothing if not a global concern and, as with most luxury goods companies, eyes are looking hungrily eastwards.”

Luxury retailers worry that shoppers may pull back on spending (LA Times)
“The luxury sector has been a consistent bright spot in the retail industry this year, posting robust sales month after month as wealthy shoppers spent freely on designer handbags, shoes and jewelry…But luxury shopping is tied closely to stock market performance. Analysts said rich shoppers could pull back again if their portfolios take a big enough hit and if they sense long-term volatility.”

Ben Sherman poaches Burberry director as part of makeover (Independent)
“Ben Sherman, one of Britain’s oldest menswear brands, has poached Burberry merchandising chief Adrian Ward-Rees as part of a makeover for the 48-year-old business… The brand, famous for its 1960s Mod associations, wants to do a “Burberry” or a “Mini” and reinvent itself as a top global menswear brand.”

Artistic licence: The most influential make-up artist in the world (Independent)
“As the global creative director for Chanel beauty– creating looks for that company’s runway shows, beauty advertising campaigns and the product itself, from nail polish to lipstick, worn by millions, if not billions, of women – he is the most influential of his profession by far… Among many other beauty moments, it was Philips who created the extraordinary underwater alien look for Alexander McQueen’s final show, Plato’s Atlantis.”

Fight On (Vogue UK)
“Christian Louboutin’s lawyer says the shoe designer plans to “fight like hell” against YSL’s attempt to overturn his re-sole trademark – and plans to file an appeal against the judge’s denial of his requested injunction… Last week the judge ruled that Yves Saint Laurent could continue to produce the shoes in the meantime and hinted that Louboutin’s monopoly on the colour could be set to end.”

David Lauren at IHT Luxury Conference | Source: Samir Husein for IHT

The Prince of Polo (Fast Company)
“By associating Ralph Lauren with new digital technology, David has done more than imbue the brand with a current vibe. He has, in the process, made the company a progressive leader among fashion peers. In 2009, David produced an online-only fashion show for Ralph Lauren’s heritage Rugby brand that, for the first time ever, allowed viewers to shop the looks in real time.”

Red Faces at Louboutin? (On the Runway)
“A court ruling today refused to grant a preliminary injunction requested by Christian Louboutin against Yves Saint Laurent, alleging trademark infringement on shoes that featured red soles suspiciously similar to those of Louboutin’s. The decision not only cleared the way for YSL to continue producing its shoes, but also seemed to give coverage to other shoe manufacturers who may want to add a scarlet underpinning to their own future models.”

Macy’s quarterly sales, profit surge (LA Times)
“Macy’s Inc., saying it had its most successful second quarter in more than a decade, reported a surge in profit and sales and raised its full-year outlook. The department store giant Wednesday reported profit of $241 million, or 55 cents a share, compared with $147 million, or 35 cents, in the same quarter last year… Profit, sales, operating income and cash flow all exceeded expectations for the quarter that ended July 30, the company said.”

Kleiner Perkins and the emerging market entail game (FT)
“Kleiner Perkins Caufield & Byers, the Silicon Valley-based venture capital firm, has announced that, together with NY/Beijing-based Tiger Global Management, it is investing $26m in Trendyol.com, the fastest growing, biggest fashion etail site in Turkey… This is the first time Kleiner had invested in a Turkish company, and only its second fashion etail investment, after renttherunway.com.”

Sales Down for All Fashion Magazines Except Vogue (Thread NY)
“According to a new report in WWD, Vogue was the only magazine to show an increase in sales in the first half of 2011, and it’s largely because of one cover in particular: Lady Gaga, who appeared on the magazine’s March issue… While sales for all other fashion magazines were down during that period, according to the report, the March 2011 issue was up in sales by 100,000 copies over the March 2010 issue.”

Karl Lagerfeld for Impulse | Source: Catwalk Queen

Dowdy Department Stores Start Looking Cool Again (WSJ)
“The sector, long derided for dowdy merchandise, maze-like stores and crumbling facades, is making a comeback. Macy’s Inc., Nordstrom Inc. and Kohl’s Corp. are posting solid sales gains even as consumers remain cautious and manufacturing costs rise—and they are poised to continue the streak this fall.”

Lagerfeld for the Masses, Again (On the Runway)
“Macy’s unveiled its newest fast-fashion collection, this one designed by Karl Lagerfeld… What struck me about the designs, actually Mr. Lagerfeld’s second endeavor into the mainstream market, after his pioneering collection for H&M in 2004, was how much more sophisticated they seemed.”

Chinese, U.S. demand helps boost Adidas sales forecast (Reuters)
“Adidas, the world’s second-largest sports clothing company, raised its year forecasts again on Thursday after seeing a 5 percent rise in sales in the second quarter thanks to strong demand in China… The German group said on Thursday it now expects sales this year to be up 10 percent and earnings per share up by 15 percent, with demand in North America also remaining strong.”

Retail Sales Rise at Expensive Stores but Are Mixed Elsewhere (NY Times)
“New data from July shows that the retail economy is locked on two tracks: one for businesses that cater to the well-to-do, and the other for everyone else… While expensive stores turned in strong results, including a startling 15.6 percent increase at Saks Fifth Avenue, almost double what analysts had predicted, middle- and low-end stores were largely dependent on marked-down summer clothes for their increases.”

A Small Victory for Christian Louboutin in the Suit Against Yves Saint Laurent (The Cut)
“A development in the case, which should set a precedent as to whether other luxury shoe labels can safely design shoes with red soles for aesthetic rather than branding reasons, seems to suggest Team Louboutin may have an edge… The judge ruled in Louboutin’s favor on that chart, as well as on other disputed YSL exhibits.”

Miu Miu Autumn/Winter 2011 photographed by Bruce Weber | Source: Miu Miu

Prada Woos Young Chinese With Edgier Sister-Brand (WSJ)
“Aiming to cash in on China’s bulging population of young fashion-lovers, Prada is turning its focus in the Chinese market to its… Sister-brand… Miu Miu has struck a chord with China’s young luxury shoppers… Who… Don’t remember the era in which the brand was overshadowed by the Prada label.”

Global growth drives ASOS sales (FT)
“Online fashion retailer Asos intends to make free global shipping a “permanent” part of its business model, after international sales growth fuelled a 63 per cent jump in sales in the first quarter to £107m… International sales grew 160 per cent… And now make up 57 per cent of overall sales.”

Hugo Boss raises outlook on China, U.S. demand (Reuters)
“German fashion house Hugo Boss raised its outlook for the year, boosted by growing sales in China and the United States…  The group, known for its sharp suits for men, said it now expected 2011 sales to rise by between 15 and 17 percent and underlying earnings to rise by 25 and 30 percent.”

Yves Saint Laurent Defends Its Red Soles Against Christian Louboutin (The Cut)
“Yves Saint Laurent, Inc.’s lawyers issued a… response to Christian Louboutin’s trademark-infringement charges this week, stating first… That no one can prove that YSL’s use of red soles hurt Louboutin’s sales or caused any consumer confusion… They argued that Louboutin never should have gotten a trademark for those red soles.”

In Berlin, Rocking the Fashion Trade Fair (IHT)
“A person stumbling into this spectacle… could easily mistake it for an artsy free-for-all in Berlin… Yet that is precisely what makes Bread & Butter, among the world’s most important urban and street fashion trade fairs… Held this year… It drew 100,000 visitors and 600 brands like Adidas, Diesel and G-Star”

'Read and Shop' on Mr.Porter edited by Jeremy Langmead | Source: Mr.Porter

E-commerce Luring Top Editorial Talent (WWD)
“A new kind of magazine has indeed arrived online and its bringing editors into the sales business. For the last year, fast-growing online retail companies like Gilt and Net-a-porter in the U.K. have been scooping up orphans from the magazine world with the idea that editorial content can help them drive sales.”

Rising raw prices to hurt luxury margins (Reuters)
“Record high prices for raw materials such as gold, silver, diamonds, leather and cashmere will squeeze the margins of luxury goods makers this year because price increases will only absorb part of the hit… supported by a weak U.S. dollar and low interest rates. Other raw materials, such as leather, cotton or cashmere, have become scarce due to high demand from Asia.”

Luxury brands under M&A pressure (Reuters)
“Big luxury goods companies will be pressured to make acquisitions to grow even as stocks of high-end retailers and brands make deals pricey and some targets are reluctant to even listen to offers… So far this year, luxury mergers and acquisitions have doubled the pace set for all of 2010.”

Yves Saint Laurent hit back at Christian Louboutin (Telegraph)
“Yves Saint Laurent have hit back against claims they copied Christian Louboutin’s trademarked red soles, in a $1 million court case which is set to divide the fashion world… ‘Red outsoles are a commonly used ornamental design feature in footwear, dating as far back as the red shoes worn by King Louis XIV in the 1600s.’”

Chronicles of Never (Dazed Digital)
“Since departing from Australian design trio Ksubi, Gareth Moody has turned his attention to developing his own, equally rebellious label, Chronicles of Never… the label echoes the same Ksubi spirit which saw warehouse installations, hundreds of rats let loose onto a catwalk and a boat party where models were instructed to jump overboard.”

Prince William and Kate Middleton by Mario Testino | Source: Stylelist

Kate’s Dress: Who Will It Be? (WWD)
“There are three weeks to go until K-Day, when royal bride-to-be Kate Middleton will, after five months of keeping the public on tenterhooks, reveals her sartorial secret… the secrecy has ignited a flurry of speculation as to which designer is doing The Dress.”

Retailers suffer sharp fall in spending (FT)
“Sales of clothing… showed the largest decline in any month since August 2009 when Britain was still mired in recession. While warm, sunny weather helped, it appears consumers prefer to delay discretionary purchases.”

Christian Louboutin Strikes Again (WWD)
“After initiating legal action against French luxury house Yves Saint Laurent last week for selling shoes that infringed on his trademarked red soles, the designer has accused another footwear brand — Carmen Steffens of Brazil — of the same offense.”

Top 3 Ideas Worth Sharing from the PSFK Conference (Fashion’s Collective)
“A publication esteemed for its thought leadership and emphasis on ideas, last week’s PSFK conference in New York was inspiring… Here are three of the ideas that have interesting implications for the fashion and luxury business.”

Stephen Jones Pulls in the Crowds, Hats in Hand (IHT)
“When the milliner Stephen Jones opened his “Accent of Fashion” hat exhibition in Istanbul on Thursday, it was one of a series of accolades for the British designer.”