The China Edit | Homegrown Designers, Richemont Sales Steady, Balenciaga

Chinese couturier Guo Pei at Asian Couture Week in Singapore, October 2013 | Source: Asian Couture Week

The China Edit is a weekly curation of the most important fashion business news and analysis from and about the world’s largest luxury market.

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Vera Wang Scraps $500 China Try-on Fee, Knockoffs Still Flourish

Vera Wang takes a bow | Source: Reuters

SHANGHAI, China — Vera Wang, the queen of bridal couture, is abolishing the nearly $500 fee she charged Chinese brides-to-be to try on a garment at her new Shanghai bridal boutique after the move, meant to deter counterfeiters, set off a global outcry.

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Tommy’s moment, Monetising mobile, Couture sensibility, Replica trade war, Louise Wilson

Tommy Hilfiger | Source: The Five

Tommy Hilfiger (WSJ) “With his boyish haircut and mischievous grin, it’s hard to believe that Tommy Hilfiger is about to receive the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.” Monetizing Mobile Requires More Than Just Waiting For Ad Dollars (Tech Crunch) “Mobile is exploding. Over 100 million people in the US have smartphones, consumers are spending over 60

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Valli Couture, Pre-fall’s problem, Fakes in the digital age, 2011 in review, Joseph Altuzarra

Harper's Bazaar Screen Shot | Source: Harper's Bazaar

Giambattista Valli is Officially a Couturier Now (The Cut) “Giambattista Valli showed his first couture collection in Paris earlier this year, as a guest of France’s Chambre Syndicale… The process for designers to be granted full, official appellation and membership usually takes five years, but Valli’s status has been upgraded after hyst the one collection.” The problem with pre-fall (FT)

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Faking it, Fashion’s shifting focus, Digitising trend-forecasting, LVMH Bulgari deal cleared, Facchinetti returns

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Louis Vuitton

Counterfeits get sophisticated: how to spot fakes | Source: WSJ The Finer Art of Faking It (WSJ) “The prices of the imitators are rising, confusing customers who are looking for the real deal at a discounted price. Still, the higher-priced fakes are just a fraction of what a real item would cost…  To fight back, more brands are turning to authentication devices into their merchandise.” The Has-Beens of the Fashion

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Toasting Fred Hayman, Prada IPO over subscribed, Fashion victory, Philip Treacy on Ascot, CSM’s big move

The Fred Hayman Place sign, Los Angeles | Source: Fred Hayman Archives

Fred Hayman: The man behind Rodeo Drive (LA Times) “He’s been called the godfather of Rodeo Drive. And it’s not all hyperbole. Before Beverly Hills was the land of designer logos… Hayman was an architect of luxury in Los Angeles, bringing high fashion, a social shopping atmosphere and white glove service to what was still a sleepy main street when he went into retail in 1967.” Prada IPO five times

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Value suiting, Online sales double, Shanghai counterfeits, William’s missed moment, Preserving Prada’s show sets

Brooks Brothers Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Brooks Brothers

A Hard-Working Suit (WSJ) “There are more suits priced between $500 and $700 that include features once found typically on more expensive suits: fine Italian fabrics, modern cuts and narrow lapels. The goal is to attract younger men who increasingly want the current fitted, formal styles as opposed to the boxy suits and more casual officewear of their dads.” Online clothing sales double (Telegraph) “Over a third

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Chalayan’s surreal world, M&S returns to France, Hermès to sell Gaultier stake, D&G cleared, Knock-off battle

Hussein Chalayan S/S 2011 featured in Glamcult | Source: Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan: The surreal thing (Independent) “When a designer such as Hussein Chalayan bases his collection on Japan it’s safe to presume that his interpretation will be far from literal: no opulent silk obi sashes tying flat-cut voluminous garments here.” Marks and Spencer to return to France (Telegraph) “The British high street stalwart has today announced that it will be returning to the French

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Louis Vuitton fetishized, Americans in Paris, Musical partnerships, Canadian counterfeits, Restoin-Roitfeld speaks

Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2011 Details | Source: Style.com

Louis Vuitton in Full Fetish (IHT) “‘Fetish’ was the subject for the designer Marc Jacobs, an inspiration that he said backstage came from thinking about the ‘irrational desire’ for Vuitton accessories. They included strokeable fur purses and a new ‘lock-it’ bag, to provide privacy for a woman and her fetish object… there has not been such a racy and saucy LV runway since Mr. Jacobs

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Turkey | Counterfeit culture

ISTANBUL, Turkey - Tucked away in a corner of the leather goods section of Istanbul's sprawling Grand Bazaar is the non-descript Kiyici Canta, which blends in amongst hundreds of other similar-looking stores in one of the Turkish capital's most visited landmarks. But one peek inside the store, and the contents are pretty remarkable indeed. Impeccably-copied Balenciaga clutches mingle with replicas of Bottega Veneta's cabat bags, which even the most discerning expert of Intrecciato weaving would find hard to tell apart from the original. There are also copies of bags by Prada, Louis Vuitton, Hermes and countless other luxury brands. The copies are so good that they even warrant a recommendation in the Luxe Guide shopping recommendations for Istanbul. Instead of…

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