Keeping Fast Fashion Fresh, and Profitable (IHT)
“It is not often that the Grand Palais… hosts a giant Ferris Wheel, a spinning swing, a shimmering mini Eiffel Tower, and a parade of scantily clad models showing lingerie on a catwalk resembling the Champs-Élysées. In the center of this adult amusement park stood Karl-Johan Persson, 34, in his new role as chief executive of H&M Hennes & Mauritz.”

Hermès and Gucci Press Equestrian Advantage (NY Times)
“The heart of the sponsorships is not commerce but the soul of the brands. Hermès has never deviated from its noble, officer-and-gentleman image. But this is a good time to reinforce that classy conception, at a moment when luxury has become associated with a period of extravagance and excess… Last weekend’s event may turn out for Gucci to be a Masters not just in jumping, but also in handling its heritage.”

John Galliano to start men’s wear line (Independent)
“Italian fashion giant Ittierre will license John Galliano’s first men’s wear range. While Galliano is responsible for the creative direction of French luxury fashion house Dior (in addition to his own label, John Galliano), this new line will be down-to-earth in comparison, with the designer eyeing a ‘contemporary-priced, ‘urban casual’ sportswear line.’”

Tough to let go for 70-something fashion designers (Reuters)
“The passing of the artistic torch is one of the most discussed subjects in the fashion world as it can make or break the survival of the brand — but no fashion house is willing to talk about it officially. Aside from Armani, the clock is ticking for a number of other fashion companies headed by 70-something designers including Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta in the United States and Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel in France.”

A fashion icon, unwrapped (Chicago Tribune)
“Meeting Diane von Furstenberg, we weren’t sure what to expect. After all, this is a woman who married a prince, made millions, graced the cover of Newsweek at age 29 and hung out with Andy Warhol… Definite diva potential. Instead, DVF …was decidedly un-diva like. No big sunglasses. No handlers. No swish of the fur à la Meryl Streep in ‘The Devil Wears Prada.’”

Left: DVF Spring 2009, right: Mercy Spring 2008 | Source: National Post

Today we introduce Legal Patterns, a new series of articles on BoF exploring fashion and the law. Just as design patterns form the foundation of good fashion design, legal frameworks enable fashion businesses to defend their financial interests and protect their designs.

BRUSSELS, Belgium — In the fashion industry, the copycatting of designs is a not a simple issue. Accusations fly in all directions: luxury houses accuse high-street brands; artisans accuse fashion houses; and fashion houses accuse other fashion houses. Indeed, Diane von Furstenberg has found herself on both sides of the issue, submitting copycatted high-street designs by Mango and Forever 21 as legal evidence in court, while herself being accused of copying a jacket designed by the Canadian brand Mercy.

Nor is this a new problem. Since their inception, houses have struggled with fashion espionage. In the past, fashion companies tried to maintain strict control over their intellectual property, not through an assertion of legal rights, but by physically hiding their designs from competitors. In the 1950s, for instance, Christian Dior’s press officer insisted that “all precautions must have been taken to ensure that no member of the profession [e.g. fashion designers, manufacturers, milliners] would be attending” their fashion shows.

Until a few years ago, fashion houses religiously pursued this strategy of strict control. But with the rise of blogging and fast fashion, this approach no longer works. Today’s fashion world is faster and more transparent than ever, blurring the line between what is ‘copying’ and what is ‘inspiration’ and putting new pressure on fashion houses to protect their intellectual property.

Can the law help?

… Continue Reading

Diane Von Furstenberg

Tightening Belts? She’s the Expert (New York Times)
Stephanie Rosenbloom sits down with Diane Von Furstenberg.

Proposed new law sparks rift in US fashion industry (Business World)
“A proposed new law that would extend copyright protection to clothing has designers in an uproar and threatens to widen a rift in the American fashion industry.”

The chambermaid wears Prada (FT)
“Designing uniforms for restaurant employees and airline crews has long been a fashion sideline. Bruce Oldfield did it for McDonald’s staff last year; 40 years ago Emilio Pucci created a uniform for Braniff International Airways, as Julien Macdonald did, more recently, for British Airways.”

Shopping for $1,000 Shoes? There’s an App for That (New York Times)
“Net-a-Porter.com, the high-end online fashion retailer, persuaded shoppers to buy couture dresses and shoes on the Web. Now, it is betting they will buy luxury goods from their cellphones.”

Bulgari S/S 09 ad campaign, courtesy of Bulgari

Bulgari sees improvement in April after Q1 loss (Reuters)
“Italy’s Bulgari posted improved sales in its own stores in April after a first-quarter net loss, hurt by the financial crisis sapping demand for luxury jewellery, watches and perfumes.”

Fashion icon pays up in copycat spat (Toronto Star)
“A struggling Toronto fashion label is getting an undisclosed financial settlement from fashion icon Diane von Furstenberg for appropriating the design of their vintage-looking, tea-dyed, floral jacket.” This is not the first time a young designer has accused Von Furstenberg of stealing their designs, as reported on BoF in April of last year.

Selfridges’ Heiress-In-Chief (Forbes)
“Alannah Weston is the daughter of a billionaire, she’s arty and she’s charged with running London’s superstore into its next 100 years.”

Out on a Lim: Phillip Lim’s Three Product Launches (WWD)
“Phillip Lim is optimistic. ‘We’re not fearful of the economy,’ he says, a bit zenlike considering the impact of the recession on his four-year-old line, 3.1 Phillip Lim.” (Subscription required)

Gisele Bündchen: The charmed life of the mega-model (The Independent)
“There are supermodels – and there is Gisele Bündchen. How did the girl from Brazil become the biggest star in fashion history?”