Victoria's Secret Fashion Show 2011 | Source: Victoria's Secret

NEW YORK, United States — In recent years, the main fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris have attracted unprecedented interest from end consumers, with brands live streaming their shows and bloggers reporting from the runway in realtime on their sites and social channels like Twitter and Instagram. But in most cases, the actual clothes showcased during fashion week aren’t available to consumers until many months after the shows have finished.

In short, fashion’s communication cycle has become wildly out of sync with its retail cycle. Would the film industry ever hold a movie premiere 6 months ahead of its release to the public? Would Apple make its buzzy product announcements a half-year before said products were available for sale?

By shortening lead times, planning production in advance, and using other lean manufacturing techniques, fashion brands may be able to get product to consumers more quickly. But these kinds of structural changes could take years to implement, especially as many fashion brands do not control the means of production.

One solution has been to let consumers order — but not receive — products immediately after the shows. Mega-brands like Burberry have offered pre-ordering for several seasons now, while a number of mid-sized and emerging brands have collaborated with ‘pre-tail’ trunk-show start-up Moda Operandi to do the same. But market reports suggest that the sales volume of pre-orders has been limited. There are only so many consumers who are willing to plonk down money in advance to guarantee they will get a specific garment in their size months later. Most consumers still seem to prefer to purchase in-season, close to the time of need.

So if enabling consumers to pre-order clothes is not the ideal solution, why not engage consumers just before the collections arrive in store? Based on the evidence of blowout events from Victoria’s Secret and H&M for Versace in New York earlier this month, consumer appetite for this kind of engagement, and the impact it has on sales, seem very promising indeed.

… Continue Reading

Riccardo Tisci photographed by Steven Klein | Source: Interview Magazine

Riccardo Tisci By Donatella Versace (Interview)
“Like any competitive industry, fashion understands the market need for a constant infusion of fresh blood and untapped talent. But among the crop of sartorial prodigies to have emerged in recent years, none has ascended from young upstart to master of the universe as rapidly as 36-year-old Italian designer Riccardo Tisci.”

Social Media: The Second Generation (WWD)
“Forget those who ‘like’ you. Go after the ones who don’t. That’s the new strategy emerging in the ever-evolving world of social media…. Now the future of digital marketing isn’t about bulking up a firm’s own branded dot.com… it’s about getting their content onto someone else’s to reach more consumers.”

PPR’s grosse acquisition (FT Alphaville)
“There’s ripple of excitement in the luxury goods sector… following reports that Gucci and Puma-owner PPR is on the prowl. Having seen arch rival LVMH swoop for Bulgari, PPR is in talks to make une grosse acquisition in the luxury goods sector.”

How India’s Super-Rich Spend Their Money (WSJ India Realtime)
“Meanwhile, the inheritors prefer to do their shopping for clothes and luxury items abroad. ‘The same international brands in India don’t have the same range, so I pick them up when I travel overseas… Also, apparel, especially international, better to buy them abroad. The range, the cut, the finish, is better there, even the price.’”

Putting Fairy Tales and Fashion in Play (IHT)
“As a fund-raiser for her Naked Heart Foundation, which builds playgrounds in Russia, the supermodel Natalia Vodianova invited 40 designers to create dresses on a fairy-tale theme.”

Donatella Versace | Source: Versace

Donatella Versace is teaching a new generation how to thrive (Independent)
“Once a party animal, now the head of a fashion empire, Donatella Versace has lived through both good times and bad. Now she’s teaching a new generation of designers how to thrive.”

Betsey Johnson Faces a Makeover (WSJ)
“Steven Madden could likely help the $200 million Betsey Johnson label expand, allowing it ‘to put money into the organization, product development, marketing and corporate growth.’”

Young Chinese mortgaging their futures for luxury brands (Global Times)
“Young Chinese have been sold a distinct vision of what it is to be modern, and it’s all about the brands and the gadgets. But the Chinese economy isn’t yet capable of providing the income necessary for most urban youth to live a life of full-blown consumerism.”

New Facebook message platform a game-changer for luxury brands (Luxury Daily)
“Facebook’s new message platform breaks down the wall between email and social media with the potential to reap significant rewards for luxury marketers who can master the ecosystem.”

The Eye Behind Fashion’s Innovative Showcases (NY Times)
“The hordes of shoppers lining up for the Uniqlo’s+J collection in SoHo last month probably didn’t notice the store: the futuristic clean lines, steel railings, opaque glass stairs. And that’s the way Masamichi Katayama, the cult designer behind this mass-market fashion temple, likes it.”

GAP S/S 2010 Ad Campaign | Source: Denimology

Gap Profit Up 40 per cent As Old Navy Drives Sales (WSJ)
“Gap Inc. (GPS) reported a 40% increase in profits for the first quarter, as sales were boosted by strong performance at the company’s budget brand, Old Navy. Sales at that division rose 6.8% to $1.3 billion, accounting for nearly 40% of Gap Inc.’s total.”

Versace and Kane: An Odd Mix That Works (NYT)
“They are an odd couple, Mr. Kane and Ms. Versace, in an industry of convenient marriages. Who in the fashion world could compete with her view of glamour? He, on the other hand, grasps the Versaces mentally — through pictures. He can’t help it, being born in 1982, when Gianni Versace did his first metal-mesh dresses.”

Fashion sales up but future looks gloomy (Times Online)
“Sales of clothes, shoes and textiles were 9.5 per cent higher than in April last year, the biggest annual rise since July last year…Analysts said that retailers would struggle to keep up the momentum as households faced sluggish earnings growth and political uncertainty as well as tax rises and spending cuts.”

LVMH says has no plans to sell Kenzo (Reuters)
“LVMH said it had no plans to sell Kenzo, denying a report in Les Echos that said the luxury group was looking for potential buyers for the loss-making fashion brand.”

Osman Yousefzada stars in new V&A Fashion in Motion series (Telegraph)
“Yousefzada designs through instinct, his creations reflecting a deep-rooted sensibility and poetic approach, inspired both by history and the future. He is renowned for his innovative cutting and dramatic draping, and so contemporary dancers will also be on hand to demonstrate the extraordinary way in which his designs move on the human form.”

Giles Deacon to quadruple sales (Drapers)
Giles Deacon has announced a business partnership with Castor Srl which will help him to achieve the business aspirations he first mentioned to us in our Inside the Studio video series in February. (Watch video here)

EBay May Sell More Luxury Goods Under Draft EU Rules (Bloomberg)
“EBay Inc.’s traders may have fewer restrictions on selling luxury goods under European Union regulators’ plans to break down barriers to Internet sales.”

April clothing sales strongest since 2006 (Drapers)
“Retail like-for-like sales rose 4.6% in April, with clothing showing the strongest growth since late 2006, according to the British Retail Consortium (BRC).”

Barneys aiming to close 2 stores (Reuters)
“As the impact of the global recession weighs in on wealthy Americans, high-end retailer Barneys New York Inc aims to close two of its seven department stores, the Wall Street Journal said, citing people familiar with the matter.”

White House Correspondents’ Dinner: Glamour Is Back! (Huffington Post)
Donatella Versace writes her first blog entry on the White House Correspondents’ Association dinner.