The Fashion Twitterati | Source: DKNY and Oscar de la Renta

NEW YORK, United States — To tweet, or not to tweet. That has been the question on many fashion business minds over the past year. Not every brand needs a Twitter account, but if a brand does decide to stake out a presence on Twitter, they should do so with a clear plan in mind and a voice that is consistent with the brand, while also opening up a new point of view. Most of all, Twitter should be a tool for engagement with a brand’s fans and followers.

That is all easier said than done. Some brands on Twitter don’t follow anybody else and only broadcast information out, which is the schoolyard equivalent of talking all the time, while shutting your eyes and ears and not listening to anybody else. You don’t make many friends that way. Then there are the brands that set up a Twitter account, and then fail to keep it active, which is kind of like inviting a brand’s fans to a big event, and then not showing up to greet them. It 0nly serves to disappoint fans and followers. Still other brands require tweets to be ‘approved’ by legal and PR departments, which takes away from the spontaneous, real time nature of Twitter.

Thankfully, there are a few fashion businesses that are doing it right. They have found ways of communicating about their brand that have caught the attention of tens of thousands of followers, and more importantly, have made those followers feel like part of the brand’s online community.

BoF sought out three of the most prolific and successful fashion twitterers, and for the very first time, spoke to the people behind fashion’s greatest tweets to learn from their success.

DONNA KARAN and DKNY

@DKNY — A true innovator, the reigning queen of the fashion Twitterati, DKNY PR girl has built a huge following amongst fashion fans for her honest opinions and behind-the-scenes peeks into the PR department of one of New York’s most celebrated fashion brands.

Name: Undisclosed
Age: A gentleman should never ask a lady her age
Number of months with DKNY: Too many to count
Number of months tweeting: 21
Followers: 240,000+

How did you get selected to be the voice of DKNY on Twitter?

When we decided to start on Twitter we wanted it to be very transparent. This was not someone speaking as the “voice” of the brand. This was not someone speaking as Donna Karan. @dkny is very uniquely my view as a PR person at Donna Karan International. As part of our decision to pursue this, I showed my colleagues several examples of what I would tweet – ranging from highlighting some of our best new products to giving some insight into our lives here “behind the scenes” — and they liked it. They were a great initial focus group, but I feel so gratified that we have received so much support from our followers. It is great to be able to engage with people who love our brands.

What was your strategy for building up a loyal following?

I am a social person by nature. What I have tried to do is combine all that is Donna Karan and DKNY with some fun, quick commentary my followers can relate to. I don’t think setting out to secure a following works – it’s an organic evolution.

How would you describe your voice?

Unedited, honest, lightly (sometimes heavily) sarcastic, friendly and engaging.

What is the best success story you can share of a business benefit that has come as a result of your Twitter presence?

I am very fortunate to have amazing, interactive and loyal followers. So many of them do my job for me. I lovingly call them #DKNYPRGirl’sTeam (we’re making T-shirts). They will search out product links from donnakaran.com or dkny.com or press on the brands and tweet about them even before I do.

Who are your 5 favourite fellow Twitterers to follow?

There are too many to count. I actually follow more than 400 fellow Twitterers. If you visit my profile, you will see a lot of the people I follow love the same things I do… there are a lot of fashionistas out there.

What makes a ‘good’ Twitter account — what are your parameters for success?

I don’t think Twitter success is weighed only in number of followers. I think it can also be judged by how often you are recommended to be followed.

Why did DKNY decide that Twitter was a communication tool that made sense for the brand/business?

As a brand, you need to reach people where they are and interact with them in the ways they interact with each other. The fact that over 240,000 people follow me shows that our customers are indeed on Twitter themselves.

Was it difficult to get buy-in from senior management to go down this route?

No. From day one, our management was excited about it, as they recognized that Twitter was another way that we could engage with our customers. They also showed a lot of foresight, because they knew it would only work if I could be real, unedited and write what I know… and a lot of what I know is the world of Donna Karan.

Our management has been very forward thinking about the power of digital and social media overall. Besides being active on Twitter, we were one of the first brands to have iPhone apps (we have two actually, one devoted entirely to the DKNY Cozy and one for Donna Karan New York. We stream our fashion shows on Facebook, we’ve created a number of videos featuring stars such as Christina Ricci on our website. Just a month ago we launched donnakaran.com as ecommerce and relaunched dkny.com, to offer full brand experiences. On this joint site, content meets social media and commerce in unique ways. There is enormous excitement about it across our Company. That is why it is great to work here – the creativity, the innovation and the recognition that the success of our brands lies in the people that love them.

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

BERGDORF GOODMAN

@Bergdorfs — A Twitter voice for one of the world’s most venerated department stores from one of its youngest staffers, Bergdorf Goodman’s Twitter feed has made the sometimes stuffy Fifth Avenue staple more open and welcoming, especially to a younger, more digitally connected consumer.

Name: Cannon, Social Media Manager
Age: 20s
Number of months with Bergdorf Goodman: 60 – or 5 years
Number of months tweeting: 11
Followers: 33,000+

How did you get selected to be the voice of Bergdorf Goodman on Twitter?

My job is to share the Bergdorf Buzz. It all started when I worked in our Special Events department and helped maintain our Facebook page. We understood the importance of social platforms and what was being said there; so, when the company decided to dedicate someone full time to those efforts, I became our Social Media Manager. I started tweeting in January – it really is the best part.

What was your strategy for building up a loyal following?

I’m their friend…I’m always there to listen and help – and to give an insider’s perspective (whether it’s interviewing Victoria Beckham, going behind the scenes with our Visual team, attending Fashion Week…or getting happily distracted by something new and fabulous in our Shoe Salon).

How would you describe your voice?

Enthusiastic. Sincere. Honest. Fun.

What is the best success story you can share of a business benefit that has come as a result of your Twitter presence?

Twitter has made us aware of an entirely different audience. They’re enthusiastic but honest… and they love to communicate with us. Impeccable customer service has always been our priority – and having the opportunity to listen to and assist clients from Twitter has proven incredibly useful in making that happen.

Twitter also has enabled me to bring the Bergdorf Goodman experience to life… in a very new way. There’s only one Bergdorf Goodman in the world, so I am their direct line of communication. Our Fifth Avenue New York address means that we always have so much going on, whether it’s designers visiting, new collections arriving or exciting new exclusive merchandise; and Twitter is an excellent way to instantly share all of this news from an insider’s perspective. Think of it this way: Even if you’ve never visited Bergdorf Goodman in person but follow Bergdorfs on Twitter, you’ll know that we had a Holiday Windows Challenge with Polyvore, carry four different styles of Texting Gloves and were very excited to introduce Roger Vivier’s Miss Viv handbag collection with Inès de la Fressange.

Who are your 5 favourite fellow Twitterers to follow?

It changes weekly – but those who currently make me click might include @stefanogabbana (& his uninhibited use of exclamation points), @Peter_Som, @evachen212, @ManRepeller and @askmrmickey.

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

@Oscar PR Girl – The magic of Oscar de la Renta comes alive via the tweets from its Director of Communications, who not only provides insights into the workings of this brand, but even dresses up in Oscar’s clothes to preview them for her thousands of followers.

Name: Erika Bearman, Director of Communications
Age: 29
Number of months with Oscar de la Renta: 27
Number of months tweeting: 18
Followers: 27,000+

How did you become the voice of ODLR on Twitter?

The specific idea for OscarPRGirl came from Alex Bolen, our CEO. The premise was simple: I would write about my experience of working in PR for Oscar de la Renta, the aspects of our brand that I thought others might find interesting, and my fashion-centric life in New York City.

What was your strategy for building up a loyal following?

I got started on Twitter by thinking: how can I bring our followers inside of the work that we do, and make them a part it? How can I tell the story of Oscar de la Renta? Then I just started talking. I was, and am still, hoping to tell a group of people a little more about a designer and a brand that they might know, or perhaps already admire. I think it’s interesting to share the details that make me feel connected to my work, like hearing Oscar whistling from his studio, or the tracklist from a recent show. In the process, I have tried to be a compelling storyteller- someone you want to listen to.

How would you describe your voice?

A little bit bold, kind of glamorous, and ultimately lighthearted. Oscar always asks that all elements of our brand, from the clothes to our advertising, convey a sense of joy- I hope that our Twitter has a dose of that same spirit.

What is the best success story you can share of a business benefit that has come as a result of your Twitter presence?

Recently one of my followers was trying on our wedding gowns at Bergdorf Goodman, tweeting me pictures from the dressing room and asking my opinion. We both loved the same one: a guipure lace and ostrich feather embroidered gown. She purchased it. I thought it was interesting because it was an impact at the store level vs. e-commerce. Essentially, I was in the dressing room with her.

Who are your 5 favorite fellow Twitterers to follow?

@mashable and @techcrunch because a girl has to stay on top of these things, @johnjannuzzi because he is smart and angsty, @bergdorfs because I think she is great at it, and @therealdaphne because we both live in a world without flats.

Imran Amed is Founder and Editor of The Business of Fashion

CFDA Winner Jason Wu | Source: Jason Wu

Asian-Americans Climb Fashion Industry Ladder (NY Times)
“It was the first time that all three prizes given by the [CFDA] were awarded to designers who are Asian-American. That same night, the fashion council announced three scholarships, each for $25,000, won by student designers of Asian heritage.”

Fashion brands are turning to the lucrative homewares market (Independent)
“The trendy Swedish denim company Acne is having a go, as is the avant-garde designer Martin Margiela. Diane von Furstenberg will be launching a homeware line in 2011; Diesel started one last year, and is now moving into lighting.”

Victoria Beckham: Is She for Real? (NY Times)
“Her sinuously curvy cocktail dresses… are showcased in stores alongside luxury labels like Narciso Rodriguez and Vera Wang. ‘Don’t underestimate her,’ said Anna Wintour.”

A morning in the life of Donna Karan (National Post)
“Twenty-five years ago, Donna Karan made her first Canadian personal appearance at Holt Renfrew’s Toronto flagship store to launch her ready-to-wear label. The New York fashion designer recently returned to mark the occasion.”

Steve Madden Might End Up Owning Betsey Johnson in 2012 (The Cut)
“Madden already holds a license for handbags, small leather goods, belts and umbrellas under the Betsey Johnson and Betseyville trademarks. The collateral for the loan includes the company’s intellectual property.”

Carré Hermès | Source: Hermès

Jean-Louis Dumas, Chief of Hermès, Dies at 72 (NY Times)
“Jean-Louis Dumas, who revived the flagging fortunes of Hermès in the late 1970s and in his nearly 30 years as the company’s chief executive transformed it into one of the world’s most successful luxury brands, died Saturday at his home in Paris.”

Louis Vuitton Tops Hermes, Gucci as Most Valuable Luxury Brand (Bloomberg)
“Louis Vuitton, the French fashion brand known for its monogrammed luggage, topped Millward Brown Optimor’s 2010 BrandZ ranking of the most valuable luxury labels for the fifth straight year.”

Costumes On Display at the Met (WSJ)
“There are really no other evenings in New York like the Costume Institute Gala, which falls on the first Monday in May and is hosted, as it has been for years, by Vogue. This is partly because there’s a great element of surprise.”

YSL’s Stefano Pilati (South China Morning Post)
“‘More or less I have done everything I have had in mind so far – in terms of collections, playing with the heritage but not too much and preserving the runway as something directional yet true to what I feel. Sales, for me, show I have done a good job.’”

The Collector: Jason Wu (WSJ)
“In 2008, he was a finalist for the Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund award, a prestigious prize for emerging designers. But when the inauguration gown went viral in the multimedia world, he became a household name overnight.”

Of course, there are plenty of people who would disagree with this point of view – the folks at PETA, for one.  A PETA spokesperson told London’s Daily Telegraph that Lagerfeld is “a fashion dinosaur who is as out of step as his furs are out of style. The vast majority of fur these days comes not from hunters as he suggests, but from Chinese fur farms, where no law protects the millions of animals who are routinely beaten and skinned alive.”

So, who’s right?

The answer, of course is not straightforward. Perfectly intelligent people may disagree after having heard all the arguments because, on an issue like this, an individual’s point of view will ultimately depend on how they believe animals should or should not be treated, and how their skins and fur should or should not be used in clothing.

This is why I have found the approach of the aggressive protesters outside the Bryant Park tents, waving bloody photos and screaming at editors and buyers going to see the New York shows, to be pretty pointless. They may actually be doing a disservice to their cause by making it easier for people to dismiss their antics as those of the lunatic fringe.

On the other hand, I found this video by PETA, narrated by Tim Gunn of Project Runway fame, pretty arresting and thought-provoking. It made me think twice about how important it is to know where our clothes come from. It’s easier to ignore these issues when our fashions are made in faraway places without our awareness. But, when some of the visuals are thrust in your face and the logical arguments are presented, it’s a lot harder to turn a blind eye.

There are clearly different approaches for raising awareness of issues like the use of fur and leather in fashion, but the most effective methods are those that provoke intelligent discussion and debate.

This seems to be working. Yesterday, I received an email from Alexia Weeks, the Online Marketing Coordinator for PETA Europe, saying that as a result of this video and a personal appeal from Tim Gunn, Donna Karan has decided to drop fur from her collections, beginning with Autumn/Winter 2009.

Warning: Some of the images in the video are graphic and may turn some readers off, but then again, I guess that is the point.

Marks & Spencer, photo courtesy of the Sun UK.

Marks & Spencer to Cut 1,230 Jobs (WWD)
Marks & Spencer’s chairman expects its “gross profit margin to be 1.75 percentage points lower than the previous year,” and plans to cut 1,230 jobs.

New Year, bad news (Just Style)
The “disastrous holiday sales will spark a domino effect of store closures and bankruptcy filings over the next couple of months.”

Calvin Klein, Michael Kors Confirmed For New York Fashion Week (WSJ)
Not everyone is bowing out of fashion week as IMG confirms the shows of Calvin Klein and Donna Karan.

Iconix’s New Latin America Joint Venture (WSJ)
Iconix, which owns Candies and Badgley Mischka, will distribute its brands to Latin America in a joint effort with New Brands Americas LLC.

LONDON, United Kingdom – Just a few years ago, the concept of Ethical Luxury was dismissed by major luxury brands. Products based on environmental concerns and fair trade principles were associated with hippies. Most fashion conscious cosmopolites wanted nothing to do with the Birkenstocks, baggy pants, and hemp T-shirts of the so-called green movement.

Clicks Up: Cyber Monday Sales Rise 15 Percent (WWD)
 ”Cyber Monday was the second largest day of shopping online ever.”

Holiday Shoppers Lured Only by Big Bargains (WSJ)
Deep discounts are the main draws for cautious consumers.

Drapers Etail Awards 2009 shortlist revealed (Drapers)
Drapers lists the best “etailers” of the year.

Donna Karan Cuts Back, Again (Fashionista)
Donna Karan, plans to alter her brand’s campaigns in response to the economy.

Photo courtesy of  www.webhostingpattaya.com.