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10 January, 2012 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Escada turnaround, Claiborne shares plummet, Parallel lines, Image-making, Fashion embraces punk

Escada Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Fanpop

How Escada Clawed Its Way Back From Bankruptcy (Die Welt)
“With Berlin Fashion Week — the first big fashion event of 2012 — just a week away, excitement is mounting in the world of clothing design. The energy is particularly high at Escada, as the Munich-based brand’s new sports line will open the catwalk show in the German capital… But after being written off as dead, the global brand is decidedly back in business. According to Sälzer, turnover for the 2011 business year was some 300 million euros — up 7% over 2010.”

Liz Claiborne cuts outlook, shares drop 12 percent (Reuters)
“Liz Claiborne Inc, which recently announced a name change, cut its outlook for the year as the company expects to push more of its cost cuts to 2013, sending its shares down 12 percent after the bell.”

Parallel lines (FT)
“When Dolce & Gabbana announced in September that its spring/summer 2012 collection for D&G would be its last, it seemed like the death knell for diffusion lines… Yet this season also sees a new generation of what might be called ‘alternative’ lines, created to stand alongside high-end catwalk collections, not exactly as peers but not as second-rate cousins either.”

A Joyous Image Maker Way Before His Time (IHT)
“Mr. Goude, an artistic multitasker as designer, illustrator, photographer and ad man, baptized each transformed graphic as a ‘French Correction’ (a play on the movie title “The French Connection”). But that witty tag only just begins to describe the genius of a man who envisaged the effects of the wired world 25 years before video cameras and computer games became part of everyday life.”

Posh punk: fashion turns the clock back to 1977 (Guardian)
“Designer Karl Lagerfeld picked up the theme by announcing last month he had a crush on so-called ‘posh punk princess’ Alice Dellal, the well-connected daughter of a British millionaire. He chose her to be the face of a spring campaign to sell his latest Chanel handbag.”

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20 January, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | The rise of edvertorial, Everyday Escada, Formichetti’s cyberimage, Valuing ‘Made in Italy’, Designers anonymous

Social Media Breeds Edvertorial (WWD)
“‘It’s a new way of communicating with consumers… an editorial approach to telling your brand story, and the social-media space just lends itself so beautifully to that combination.’”

Everyday Escada? Life After ’80s Power Dressing (WSJ)
“Over the past two years, in an effort to add new customers, Mr. Sälzer cut Escada’s prices by 20%… reduced the size of the collections by a third, while increasing the number of daywear pieces.”

Power of the Cyberimage (IHT)
“‘Nicola has an extremely prophetic future radar — a kinetic link to tomorrow’s trends today. His laser-guided vision makes his extreme point of view a take-it-or-leave-it proposition.’”

Value of being ‘Made in Italy’ (FT)
“The demise of ‘Made in Italy’ have proved to be greatly exaggerated. In 2010, the country’s exports are estimated to have grown 12.5 per cent, far outpacing the 4.4 per cent rise in global gross domestic product.”

Designers Anonymous (NY Times)
“Suddenly anonymity, the kind that lets you blend into a crowd, looks pretty desirable, too. It certainly did during a week of Milanese fashion shows that were so unostentatious as to be generic. Almost across the board, designers here chose a low-key approach.”

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30 November, 2010 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Hilfiger dreams, Strong Cyber Monday, Saunders for Escada Sport, Primark sets record, Anna Sui book

Tommy Hilfiger | Source: Badische Zeitung

Tommy Hilfiger Dreams of Limitless Horizons (IHT)
“‘We are really living the American dream,’ Mr. Hilfiger said, ‘to be a successful brand in the States and in Europe and to steep ourselves in our heritage. But we do it with a sense of humor. We don’t take ourselves too seriously in fashion.’”

‘Cyber Monday’ Sales Show Strength (WSJ)
“Online retailers experienced a sales surge Monday, capping off a holiday shopping week in which more Americans than ever decided to skip the mall and buy on the Web. Early estimates indicated overall sales gains of about 20% from a year earlier for ‘Cyber Monday.’”

Saunders For Escada (Vogue UK)
“Jonathan Saunders has been enlisted by Escada to create a collection for its Escada Sport label. The Scottish designer will present the 20-piece offering as part of the label’s 2010 resort collection in London and Paris next June.”

Primark store sets new sales record (Independent)
“The discount fashion chain Primark achieved record takings of more than £820,000 at its flagship store in the West End of London on Saturday. The best one-day performance of any Primark shop in its 41-year history.”

Anna Sui’s new book (Telegraph)
“Sui’s anniversary book, featuring Christy Turlington, Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista, is a walk down memory lane for the boho-chic designer.”

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25 January, 2010 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | YSL’s fashionless film, Spending quietly, Escada’s rebirth, Ralph Lauren’s mobile magic, A question of heritage

YSL and a Naked Screen (IHT)
“With social networking the subject of the moment, Yves Saint Laurent made a bold decision to link its men’s wear to a new generation…But viewers won’t be getting even a glimpse of the perfectly cut coats, the jackets with a tendency to be rounded up at the base of the spine or even the drop-crotch pants that are a favorite of the designer, Stefano Pilati.”

Ready to Spend, but Not to Boast (NY Times)
“The Wall Street crowd is shaking off what one luxury retailer called its ‘frugal fatigue.’ Unlike earlier spending sprees, however, the consumption will be a lot less conspicuous.”

Fashion label Escada back on the catwalk (DW-World)
“After struggling with declining sales for years, Escada… is back. The Munich-based company recently presented its first collection under its new owner, Megha Mittal.”

Ralph Lauren is 2009 Mobile Marketer of the Year (Mobile Marketer)
“Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. took first place as 2009 Mobile Marketer of the Year… Ralph Lauren serves as a role model for outstanding use of mobile advertising and marketing.”

Heritage: Shake It, Break It or Fake It? (IHT)
“The Paris men’s season, which closed Sunday, was all about handling the heritage. Should you shake it, break it or fake the style of the past?”

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18 November, 2009 | by Imran Amed, Editor

CEO Talk | Pierre Mallevays, Founder and Managing Partner, Savigny Partners

Pierre Mallevays, Founder and Managing Director, Savigny Partners | Source: Savigny Partners

Pierre Mallevays of Savigny Partners | Source: Savigny Partners

Today, BoF brings you an exclusive interview with a key adviser to the private family trust which, as announced today, made an investment in Lanvin, one of the hottest fashion brands in the world.

PARIS, France Over the past few years, under the creative stewardship of industry darling Alber Elbaz, Lanvin has risen to heights that most fashion brands can only dream of, with nearly unanimous positive reviews from buyers and editors and a seemingly insatiable appetite amongst luxury fashion customers for Lanvin’s clothes, accessories and jewelry.

There was only one problem. After having invested significant sums early on, Shaw-Lan Chu-Wang, who purchased Lanvin from L’Oreal in 2001, was not injecting any more cash to grow the business. This left Lanvin’s hyper industry buzz and brand potential underexploited.

Not anymore. Today, in a press release issued by Lanvin (and as reported in WWD), it was announced that Arpège, the brand’s parent company, has received a cash injection for a minority investment representing 12.5 percent of the equity. The investment was made with a “long-term” view, apparently an indication that the investor does not plan to flip the investment for a quick profit. This is a refreshing change from some of the disastrous investments we have seen in fashion brands in recent years.

I spoke with Pierre Mallevays who advised the private family trust on their investment in Lanvin to learn more about the dynamics of the deal and the fashion and luxury market in general. Pierre is a friend and colleague, and one of the leading investment experts in the luxury space, first having worked as Head of M&A for LVMH for over seven years, and now as Managing Partner of London-based Savigny Partners, a boutique M&A advisory firm.

… Continue Reading

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