Sleek luxe in Milan, Kiddie couturiers, Saks turns a profit, Chatting with Della Valle, Event producers in focus

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2011 details | Source: Style.com

Sleek and Luxe (IHT) “‘I wanted to play with color, a little of the 1970s and a lot of irony,’ said Ms. Giannini backstage, after the parade of fabulous Ms. Fox furs in turquoise, purple, rust and lilac wrapped around the shoulders above slim leather dresses or those sporty jackets with pleated culotte skirts that looked a lot like Yves Saint Laurent archives updated.” The Kiddie Couturiers (NY Times)

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Less is more, Mulberry Men’s, Asia inspires aesthetics, Superdry’s retail superboost, Anya’s record year

Tom Ford's Spring/Summer 2011 presentation | Source: Nitrolicious

‘Less Is More’ Is Mattering Most (NY Times) “‘Why would you want to spend hundreds of thousands on a show when everybody’s on their BlackBerry and the clothes seem secondary… Intimacy, exclusivity and a chance to see the clothes: those are our priorities. We like exposure, but we want a more controlled exposure.’” Mulberry designer Emma Hill has men’s accessories in the bag (The Australian)

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Japan Fashion Week | Under the radar

TOKYO, Japan - Just before the fashion world turned its laser focus on New York, a lesser known semi-annual week of fashion shows in Tokyo failed to garner much attention. Not surprisingly then, a key activity during Japan Fashion Week is listening to other people grumble about Japan Fashion Week. Although Tokyo is one of the world's most important fashion cities, overflowing with amazing daily dressers, avant-garde masters, and street fashion innovation, the organized collection week has yet to muster up a global impact on par with Paris, Milan, or New York. And the problem is not just international reception: most of the cooler domestic Japanese brands aren't even on board. Long ago, there was a very loose event called…

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New York Fashion Week | Marc Bouwer’s online experiment

NEW YORK, United States - While the rest of New York Fashion Week was caught up in its regular Bryant Park frenzy today, designer Marc Bouwer was busy blazing his own fashion trail, exclusively showing his S/S 2009 collection on his website, thereby giving everyone a front row view. Of course, we have seen other designers, notably Stefano Pilati for YSL (first with menswear, and most recently women's resort) and Husein Chalayan, create videos to showcase their collections. And, Giorgio Armani made history when he streamed his Armani Prive couture collection for Spring 2007 online, gaining kudos for democratising the storied world of haute couture. Net-a-Porter also innovated by putting up Roland Mouret's RM19 collection in an online video and…

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New York Fashion Week: Marc Jacobs is backwards, upside down and inside out

Last night I witnessed the intricate ballet of savvy PR and event-planning that has helped build Marc Jacobs into one of the only truly successful, global luxury brands that has been launched in the past 20 years. It was evidence of the basic human psychological desire to be part of the cool crowd. You know those nightclubs that intentionally keep people waiting outside to give off the impression of being the hot spot of the moment? This was not all that different, except Marc Jacobs has been doing this for almost 20 years, and he has it down to a fine art. Plus, this is not just hype. He has a reputation for delivering collections that will inspire designers and…

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Jostling for Giles: Giles Deacon, Autumn/Winter 2007

London Fashion Week has come and gone. And, it's a bit like Groundhog Day because this season, yet again, everyone has been eagerly (and vocally) anticipating Giles Deacon's latest turn down the catwalk. You never know what to expect with Giles. Unlike many other designers, he isn't overly focused on his "signature", the technique/look that a designer develops over his or her career to the point of near perfection, for which he or she becomes famous. Sometimes, a signature can lead to being pigeon-holed, but for a man with the creative depth and flexibilty as Giles, this is out of the question. Maybe its because Giles seems to be able to execute so well on so many different styles. One…

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Ogling Osman, London Fashion Week

Osman Yousefzada's A/W Collection bowed this evening in Selfridge's 7th floor car park. For one thing, that must have made it easier for his sponsor, Saab, to get their sleek cars into the venue for the eyes of ogling fashionistas. A lot easier, say, than a 7th floor art gallery or church or museum. Somehow, the edgy venue and refined collection came together very well in a sort of  modern elegance, best exemplified by a hooded-dress that looked stunning from behind. There were also Lily Cole's legs in a short sea grey skirt with ruffly pleats. A stream a immacuately cut dresses and trousers followed, each with hints of embellishment (okay, sometimes they were more than hints) and draping. While…

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Kaning it, London Fashion Week

He Kaned it. Christopher Kane, who only hit the London Fashion Week radar one year ago after winning the best collection award from Harrod's during the St Martins MA graduate show in February, that is. His collection was a true tour de force, hitting all the right notes, and that included the music from his show going from soft Sunday afternoon in the park to a sexy club on a cheeky Thursday night. How could anyone make golf ball size swarvoski crystals work? Christopher Kane did. I watched the video here: Christopher Kane, Autumn/Winter 2007. Here are some photos I took at his graduate collection show last year.

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Scooping Suzy?

I would never be so presumptuous as to think that my writing could even compare to that of the always insightful quasi-legendary Suzy Menkes.  But, when I read this article in the IHT this morning, I did notice there were some links between some points in her article on London Fashion Week and my rant picking up on the WWD article about fashion fatigue in New York. You can read the article here:  http://www.iht.com/articles/2007/02/12/news/rlon13.php

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