PARIS, France — Straight from Paris, BoF’s contributing photographer Sonny Vandevelde brings us backstage imagery from the Anthony Vaccarello, Damir Doma, Dries van Noten, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Gareth Pugh, Mugler, Manish Arora, Balmain, Rick Owens and Lanvin shows, held on the first and second days of Paris Fashion Week.
LONDON, United Kingdom — Instagram, Barbour, vinyl records, artisanal butchers, moustaches, and the biography of your potatoes lovingly detailed on chalkboard signs at Whole Foods. What is wrong with this picture? As London-based writer and entrepreneur Russell M Davies puts it, “most of Shoreditch would be wandering around in a leather apron if it could. With pipe and beard and rickets. Every new coffee shop and organic foodery
PARIS, France — Ahh, Paris. The spiritual home of fashion where the wonderful diversity of creative ideas and fashion dreams comes together in a veritable cornucopia of collections that close off fashion month. We’ve selected ten fashion moments from the Autumn/Winter 2012 collections in Paris, with photographs by Morgan O’Donovan, whose camera was focused on all the goings on backstage — before, during and after the runway shows.
Fast Retailing May Buy Bigger Rival in U.S., Europe on Yen (Bloomberg) “Fast Retailing Co., Asia’s largest clothing chain, may buy a bigger rival in the U.S. or Europe after the yen’s advance to a postwar high against the dollar boosted the Japanese company’s purchasing power… The billionaire aims to take advantage of the yen’s climb to expand outside Japan, where an unexpectedly long summer damped demand for fall and
Raid the Archives With Caution (NY Times) “Mr. Ghesquiere can come away refreshed from the Balenciaga archive, but for most designers the postwar couture is an element in the cut-and-paste process that largely defines current fashion. Designers saw the Madame Grès exhibition here this summer; they know Balenciaga’s volumes and bullring pomp by heart. But they always have to do something extreme to make you think it’s
Gucci Feeds Its Florentine Roots (IHT) “The museum, housed in a 14th-century building in the Piazza della Signoria, is designed to honor the company’s leather goods legacy and to bring it into the 21st century by juxtaposing the innovation of bamboo-handled bags or luxe sports equipment with modern art… The idea of facing off past with present — under the slogan “forever now” — was the brainchild of Frida Giannini, the
LONDON, United Kingdom — This season, fashion brands embraced fashion film like never before, integrating digital videos more meaningfully into a wide spectrum of communications strategies, from Nicola Formichetti’s formidable social media machine for the House of Mugler to Tom Ford’s contrarian approach that defied the industry trend towards greater access and immediacy. In past seasons, fashion films have often been geared at
“I’m not saying that I’m never going to do a fashion show again. I’m not saying fashion film is the future. It’s just an idea…and it’s nice to have the option to do both.” Avant-garde designer Gareth Pugh speaking to BoF founder Imran Amed in Florence, Italy at Pitti Immagine, where he projected a critically acclaimed fashion film on the ceiling of a 14th century church. On Wednesday
MILAN, Italy — In the wake of the financial crisis of 2008, luxury fashion brands found themselves scrambling to develop strategies for the so-called “new normal.” Logos and conspicuous consumption were out, it was said. Customers were now looking for understated luxury, value and discretion. And so, in uncanny lock-step syncopation, brands from Louis Vuitton to Gucci to Dolce & Gabbana began a strategic march to
Pushing Fashion Boundaries in an Era Without Any (NY Times) “In some ways, the focus on sexuality reflects the fairly narrow thinking of designers and photographers… the Internet represents a world that is livelier, more daring and actual than what currently takes place on runways and in mainstream magazines.” Stepping Into the Sole of Luxury (WSJ) “The U.K.’s reputation for making the finest cars,
Heritage Luxury: Past Becomes the Future (IHT) “The subject of heritage is red-hot because, faced with fierce global competition, brands have to decide which way to go: back to the comfort zone of craftsmanship and quality…fast forward into the world of live screening and e-commerce; or a delicate balance between the two?” In China, the Lure of Patrimony (NY Times) “When it comes to attracting China’s new