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20 April, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Putting China first, Designers out at Ferré, Gap’s overseas push, Bulgari sales sparkle, Fashion theatre

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Highlights from Burberry’s party/fashion show in Beijing | Source: YouTube

China First: Coaxing or Kowtowing? (Luxury Society)
“Last Wednesday, Burberry joined the ranks of such other megabrands in this quest to show China not only that they mean business but that they are putting the country first… Offering a technologically enhanced ‘debut’ geared toward China’s youth is also a strategic one, considering that 73% of luxury buyers in China are under the age of 45.”

Aquilano and Rimondi out at Gianfranco Ferré (Fashion Etc)
“When questioned about the designers’ fates at the label’s Fall 2011 show in February, Paris Group’s Abdulkader Sankari and his son Ahmed are said to have cut Aquilano and Rimondi loose in the face of weak sales figures. ‘Sales didn’t go well at all and the designers have already left.’”

Gap plans overseas push, expansion of Old Navy (Bloomberg)
“Gap is consolidating international operations to accelerate growth overseas and plans to open its first Old Navy stores abroad, in Japan by 2012… The goal is for international and online sales to make up 30 percent of its total by 2013, up from 22 percent in 2010 and 14 percent in 2006.”

Bulgari Sales Sparkle, Up 27.5% Led by China (Forbes)
“The general recovery of the economic context, together with an extremely competitive offer in all product categories, very impactful communication initiatives and a constant improvement of the shopping experience had a very positive influence on the turnover, with a significant contribution from both the directly owned stores and the wholesale channel.”

Spring Theater of the Absurd (On the Runway)
“In the last year, the energy has come from outside of the fashion world… while the few truly brilliant ideas are coming from hard-thinking insiders… As someone on the blog suggested this week, in reference to the thread about fashion TV, it is more and more about popular taste.”

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28 February, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Innovation on the surface, Galliano crisis at Dior, Ferré expansion, Training tailors, Middle East impact

L-R Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Marni | Source: Style.com

Surface Attraction (IHT)
“Sculpted shapes, clean lines and modernist architecture — why is the fashion ‘streamlining’ of today any different from its previous incarnations of the 1930s to the 1990s?… The answer lies on the surface. A combination of hyper-modern fabrics and imaginative decoration is giving 21st-century style a third dimension.”

Galliano counter-sues over racist allegations (FT)
“John Galliano is counter-suing a couple for defamation after they claimed he hurled anti-Semitic and racist slurs at them at a café in Paris, resulting in his suspension as head designer of Dior Couture, part of LVMH, the luxury goods conglomerate.”

Paris Group plans expansion for Gianfranco Ferré (FT)
“Mr. Sankari argues that Paris Group’s expertise in opening stores gives it a head start in reviving the fortunes of Ferré. He also expects to announce in the coming weeks the acquisition by Paris Group of other large, well-known, high-end – and distressed – European brands in France and Italy.”

Italian tailoring schools (FT)
“Increasingly, and behind the scenes, the Italian brands that seem to be thinking simply of the next big season are also thinking of their long-term future. Specifically, how they can institutionalise their know-how to ensure an informed design pool for generations to come, whether women’s or men’s wear.”

Luxury and Unrest (IHT)
“Could the dramatic events in the Middle East ultimately be a bonus to the luxury industry? The events unfolding in the Arab countries, and the subsequent spike in the cost of crude oil, are being watched carefully by manufacturers and retailers now in Italy for the fashion season — as they are by every international business.”

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1 February, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | The Ugg story, Gianfranco Ferré offer, CFDA’s new model rules, Measuring emotional response, Bling unzipped

UGG's Women's Classic Short Sparkles | Source: UGG

The story of Ugg (Telegraph)
“Clumpy or comfortable, hideous or heaven-sent, few shoe styles have proved as divisive as Uggs. The boots – originating from Australia – have outlasted all forecasts of their demise, and rocketed to ubiquity as one of the footwear industry’s biggest success stories of the past decade.”

Offer Submitted on Gianfranco Ferré (Fashionologie)
“Gianfranco Ferré might have another savior on the horizon. A Milan-based source revealed that Paris Group, a Dubai-based fashion distributor and franchisee in the Middle East, has submitted an offer for the bankrupt brand.”

CFDA: Handle With Care (Vogue UK)
“Diane Von Furstenberg has issued new guidelines on behalf of the CFDA… The recommendations stipulate that healthy meals and snacks should be provided backstage for models – and that no designer should hire models under the age of 16 in a catwalk show.”

New Technology Measures Emotional Responses to Web Videos (Mashable)
“Affectiva, a commercial rendering of MIT’s FaceSense technology, was originally dreamt up to help… better understand emotion. The founders now see the potential of opening their emotion measurement technology for market research, product testing and development, clinical use and other academic purposes.”

Jewelry: Unzip the Bling (IHT)
“A tour of the Place Vendôme on ‘Jewelry day’ last week showed that there were two contrasting themes that echo the wider world: technology and nature. For high jewelry, made almost entirely by hand, technology is still part of the process, as computers are used to develop images and calculate geometric patterns.”

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28 September, 2010 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Milan rising, Made in Britain, Gucci’s China success, Gianfranco Ferré near sale, Orla Kiely’s world

Giorgio Armani Spring 2011 Ready to Wear | Source: Style.com

Milan Steps Out of the Back Seat (NY Times)
“This has been a brilliant season for Italian fashion, a reminder that Milan can be a stronghold for new and exciting design… It’s hard to remember a season here in the last decade when excellent collections were the norm and not the exception.”

Made in Britain: Flying the Flag for UK Manufacturing (Telegraph)
“A few fiercely patriotic brands are putting their efforts into saving the vestiges of Made in Britain. It isn’t a seismic shift and it won’t stop the majority of companies from continuing to move manufacturing offshore… but it’s a start.”

Why Gucci Succeeds in China (Red Luxury)
“Gucci has a higher profile and recognition in China than many of its competitors — primarily achieved through its heavy investment in China. The company has expanded aggressively into the second and third-tier cities.”

Gianfranco Ferré Said to Be Near a Sale (NY Times)
“Gianfranco Ferré, the Italian fashion house in bankruptcy protection, is near a deal to be sold to a group led by a U.S. private equity firm for about €18 million, including debt… [Prodos Capital Management] is the lead investor in the deal.”

The world of Orla Kiely, Designer (Telegraph)
“Orla Kiely, 46, is synonymous with graphic prints and kitsch patterns. The Orla Kiely brand produces ready-to-wear collections, homeware, furnishings, luggage and accessories, all emblazoned with her instantly recognisable graphics.”

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16 June, 2010 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Middle East focus, Gianfranco Ferré auction begins, Reviving Edun, Gucci Group lawsuit, Goyard’s bible

The newly opened Beirut Souks Mall | Source: Solidere.com

The newly opened Beirut Souks Mall | Source: Solidere.com

India, Brazil on hold, luxury targets Middle East (Economic Times)
“Luxury groups discouraged by thickets of red tape and taxes are putting on ice ambitions to expand into India and Brazil and focusing instead on the Middle East, their No.2 priority after fast-growing China.”

Auction of Fashion House Gianfranco Ferré to Begin (WSJ)
“The auction of bankrupt Italian fashion house Gianfranco Ferré SpA kicks off Wednesday with a call for potential buyers to express their interest. Ferré is the first major label felled by the economic crisis to come out the other end of restructuring.”

Edun Relaunches at Barney’s (Huffington Post)
“Edun wasn’t broken. It didn’t need a rescue. But it did need a revival, and it seems the expertise in efficiencies from the LVMH-tinged new guard, combined with the sheer optimism… might just make Edun an industry leader.”

Gucci Group May Sue Cadbury (WWD)
“Gucci Group is seeking legal advice after watching the latest TV advertisement for the Cadbury Flake chocolate bar… The ad is similar to the hologram image of Kate Moss that appeared in Alexander McQueen’s fall 2006 runway show.”

A Tender Tome of Art and Heart (IHT)
“A pair of white-gloved hands opens the mini-trunk and lifts, with the utmost tenderness, an object swaddled inside. What is this hidden treasure about to be revealed?”

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