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Highlights from Burberry’s party/fashion show in Beijing | Source: YouTube

China First: Coaxing or Kowtowing? (Luxury Society)
“Last Wednesday, Burberry joined the ranks of such other megabrands in this quest to show China not only that they mean business but that they are putting the country first… Offering a technologically enhanced ‘debut’ geared toward China’s youth is also a strategic one, considering that 73% of luxury buyers in China are under the age of 45.”

Aquilano and Rimondi out at Gianfranco Ferré (Fashion Etc)
“When questioned about the designers’ fates at the label’s Fall 2011 show in February, Paris Group’s Abdulkader Sankari and his son Ahmed are said to have cut Aquilano and Rimondi loose in the face of weak sales figures. ‘Sales didn’t go well at all and the designers have already left.’”

Gap plans overseas push, expansion of Old Navy (Bloomberg)
“Gap is consolidating international operations to accelerate growth overseas and plans to open its first Old Navy stores abroad, in Japan by 2012… The goal is for international and online sales to make up 30 percent of its total by 2013, up from 22 percent in 2010 and 14 percent in 2006.”

Bulgari Sales Sparkle, Up 27.5% Led by China (Forbes)
“The general recovery of the economic context, together with an extremely competitive offer in all product categories, very impactful communication initiatives and a constant improvement of the shopping experience had a very positive influence on the turnover, with a significant contribution from both the directly owned stores and the wholesale channel.”

Spring Theater of the Absurd (On the Runway)
“In the last year, the energy has come from outside of the fashion world… while the few truly brilliant ideas are coming from hard-thinking insiders… As someone on the blog suggested this week, in reference to the thread about fashion TV, it is more and more about popular taste.”

L-R Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Marni | Source: Style.com

Surface Attraction (IHT)
“Sculpted shapes, clean lines and modernist architecture — why is the fashion ‘streamlining’ of today any different from its previous incarnations of the 1930s to the 1990s?… The answer lies on the surface. A combination of hyper-modern fabrics and imaginative decoration is giving 21st-century style a third dimension.”

Galliano counter-sues over racist allegations (FT)
“John Galliano is counter-suing a couple for defamation after they claimed he hurled anti-Semitic and racist slurs at them at a café in Paris, resulting in his suspension as head designer of Dior Couture, part of LVMH, the luxury goods conglomerate.”

Paris Group plans expansion for Gianfranco Ferré (FT)
“Mr. Sankari argues that Paris Group’s expertise in opening stores gives it a head start in reviving the fortunes of Ferré. He also expects to announce in the coming weeks the acquisition by Paris Group of other large, well-known, high-end – and distressed – European brands in France and Italy.”

Italian tailoring schools (FT)
“Increasingly, and behind the scenes, the Italian brands that seem to be thinking simply of the next big season are also thinking of their long-term future. Specifically, how they can institutionalise their know-how to ensure an informed design pool for generations to come, whether women’s or men’s wear.”

Luxury and Unrest (IHT)
“Could the dramatic events in the Middle East ultimately be a bonus to the luxury industry? The events unfolding in the Arab countries, and the subsequent spike in the cost of crude oil, are being watched carefully by manufacturers and retailers now in Italy for the fashion season — as they are by every international business.”

UGG's Women's Classic Short Sparkles | Source: UGG

The story of Ugg (Telegraph)
“Clumpy or comfortable, hideous or heaven-sent, few shoe styles have proved as divisive as Uggs. The boots – originating from Australia – have outlasted all forecasts of their demise, and rocketed to ubiquity as one of the footwear industry’s biggest success stories of the past decade.”

Offer Submitted on Gianfranco Ferré (Fashionologie)
“Gianfranco Ferré might have another savior on the horizon. A Milan-based source revealed that Paris Group, a Dubai-based fashion distributor and franchisee in the Middle East, has submitted an offer for the bankrupt brand.”

CFDA: Handle With Care (Vogue UK)
“Diane Von Furstenberg has issued new guidelines on behalf of the CFDA… The recommendations stipulate that healthy meals and snacks should be provided backstage for models – and that no designer should hire models under the age of 16 in a catwalk show.”

New Technology Measures Emotional Responses to Web Videos (Mashable)
“Affectiva, a commercial rendering of MIT’s FaceSense technology, was originally dreamt up to help… better understand emotion. The founders now see the potential of opening their emotion measurement technology for market research, product testing and development, clinical use and other academic purposes.”

Jewelry: Unzip the Bling (IHT)
“A tour of the Place Vendôme on ‘Jewelry day’ last week showed that there were two contrasting themes that echo the wider world: technology and nature. For high jewelry, made almost entirely by hand, technology is still part of the process, as computers are used to develop images and calculate geometric patterns.”

Giorgio Armani Spring 2011 Ready to Wear | Source: Style.com

Milan Steps Out of the Back Seat (NY Times)
“This has been a brilliant season for Italian fashion, a reminder that Milan can be a stronghold for new and exciting design… It’s hard to remember a season here in the last decade when excellent collections were the norm and not the exception.”

Made in Britain: Flying the Flag for UK Manufacturing (Telegraph)
“A few fiercely patriotic brands are putting their efforts into saving the vestiges of Made in Britain. It isn’t a seismic shift and it won’t stop the majority of companies from continuing to move manufacturing offshore… but it’s a start.”

Why Gucci Succeeds in China (Red Luxury)
“Gucci has a higher profile and recognition in China than many of its competitors — primarily achieved through its heavy investment in China. The company has expanded aggressively into the second and third-tier cities.”

Gianfranco Ferré Said to Be Near a Sale (NY Times)
“Gianfranco Ferré, the Italian fashion house in bankruptcy protection, is near a deal to be sold to a group led by a U.S. private equity firm for about €18 million, including debt… [Prodos Capital Management] is the lead investor in the deal.”

The world of Orla Kiely, Designer (Telegraph)
“Orla Kiely, 46, is synonymous with graphic prints and kitsch patterns. The Orla Kiely brand produces ready-to-wear collections, homeware, furnishings, luggage and accessories, all emblazoned with her instantly recognisable graphics.”

The newly opened Beirut Souks Mall | Source: Solidere.com

India, Brazil on hold, luxury targets Middle East (Economic Times)
“Luxury groups discouraged by thickets of red tape and taxes are putting on ice ambitions to expand into India and Brazil and focusing instead on the Middle East, their No.2 priority after fast-growing China.”

Auction of Fashion House Gianfranco Ferré to Begin (WSJ)
“The auction of bankrupt Italian fashion house Gianfranco Ferré SpA kicks off Wednesday with a call for potential buyers to express their interest. Ferré is the first major label felled by the economic crisis to come out the other end of restructuring.”

Edun Relaunches at Barney’s (Huffington Post)
“Edun wasn’t broken. It didn’t need a rescue. But it did need a revival, and it seems the expertise in efficiencies from the LVMH-tinged new guard, combined with the sheer optimism… might just make Edun an industry leader.”

Gucci Group May Sue Cadbury (WWD)
“Gucci Group is seeking legal advice after watching the latest TV advertisement for the Cadbury Flake chocolate bar… The ad is similar to the hologram image of Kate Moss that appeared in Alexander McQueen’s fall 2006 runway show.”

A Tender Tome of Art and Heart (IHT)
“A pair of white-gloved hands opens the mini-trunk and lifts, with the utmost tenderness, an object swaddled inside. What is this hidden treasure about to be revealed?”

Burberry Black Label A/W 2010, courtesy of Burberry

Best of British: Why Burberry has the fashion business all wrapped up (Times)
“It fought the fakers, weathered an image crisis and resisted recession to become the darling of the FTSE 100. On the eve of Burberry’s return to London Fashion Week, Susannah Frankel checks out how a trenchcoat company became the British design phenomenon of the decade.”

Gianfranco Ferre defies crisis with major revamp (Reuters)
“Italian fashion house Gianfranco Ferre has enough cash to stage fashion shows, launch a shoe and handbag line and roll-out a new logo despite being in administration and hit by the downturn, its CEO said.”

Recession forcing retailers to think small (AP)
“The Great Recession and Americans’ retreat into thriftiness are teaching retailers a new lesson: How to survive when consumers are focused on ‘needs’ rather than ‘wants.’”

Global luxury sales to end this year 10 pct down (AFP)
“The global luxury market has been badly wounded by the financial crisis and will not fully recover for at least another three years, an international conference on the sector heard in Brazil on Wednesday.”

A Design Generation Rising (New York Times)
“At New York Fashion Week, which begins today, 25 Asian-American fashion designers plan to hold shows or presentations, nearly double the number five years ago. To explain the sharp increase in their numbers, many young Asian-American designers point to a cultural shift within their communities that has liberated them from traditional career expectations.”

Apriori S/S 09 ad campaign, courtesy of Apriori

Escada sells off Apriori, Cavita and Laurèl (Drapers)
“Escada has sold off its Apriori, Cavita and Laurèl womenswear brands which operate under its Primera subsidiary, to German investment firm Mutares.”

Ferre and Damiani announce cooperation (Forbes)
“The Gianfranco Ferre fashion house, which suffered the death of its founder and the bankruptcy of its holding company in the span of two years, said Tuesday it was starting a jewelry line to be produced by Damiani as part of its relaunching efforts.”

Fashion Legend Miuccia Prada On CNN’s Talk Asia (CNN)
“She’s one of fashion’s greatest icons, pioneering her own style at the top of the industry for decades. This week, TALK ASIA sits down for a rare interview with Miuccia Prada at an exhibition of her work in Seoul.” Miuccia Prada’s interview will be available online here after the first airing on May 27 at 8.30pm.

Evisu hires chief executive (Drapers)
“Denim brand Evisu has hired denim aficionado Scott Morrison as global chief executive. Scott Morrison, the co-founder of denim brands Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn, has been charged with reinvigorating the brand. He left Earnest Sewn just two months ago.”

Gianfranco Ferre S/S 2009, courtesy of Christopher Moore

IT Holding’s Ittierre Unit to File for Bankruptcy (Bloomberg)
Ittierre, the parent company of Malo and Ferré files for Bankruptcy

Discounting drives January sales (Drapers)
In the UK, deep discounts drove January sales but clothing sales dropped to its lowest rate.

Phoebe Philo is redefining soul of Céline (IHT)
With Phoebe Philo at the helm, “the focus is to redefine the soul of Céline, which started out as a children’s shoe supplier.”

American Eagle Sues Citi Over ARS (WSJ)
“American Eagle Outfitters Inc. sued Citigroup Global Markets Inc. and accused it of fraudulently inducing it to buy $258 million worth of auction rate securities.”

Twitter Speeds Up Fashion Trends (Consuming PR)
“Now, with the use of twitter, fashionistas everywhere can consume fashion 24/7.”

American Apparel billboard on Sunset Blvd, courtesy of Deborah K

The Complicated World of American Apparel (WWD)
Amid one of the most dismal retail environments on record, American Apparel has posted a 3% profit.

New Info Shoppers (WSJ)
Over the past few years, a new class of strapped consumers has been poring over product spec sheets, third-party reviews and expert blog sites to find the best value. Hail the “new info shopper.”

Wave of Bankruptcy Filings Expected From Retailers in Wake of Holidays (WSJ)
With consumer confidence in the doldrums, retailers, “are expected to begin a wave of post-holiday bankruptcy filings, altering the landscape at malls and on main streets across the country.”

Gianfranco Ferre Mens to Debut in Milan (Fashionista)
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, newly-appointed Gianfranco Ferre design heads, will unveil a menswear range on January 18th during Milan men’s fashion week.