Young designers make it work, Made in Italy, Boutiques struggle, Deacon at the V&A, Ossie Clark to close

Prabal Gurung and Joseph Altuzarra

Out on Their Own, and Making It Work (New York Times) “Ever since Prabal Gurung left his employer in the garment district, last winter, and sank his savings into his own label – at the worst possible time – he has been more aware of the silly and duplicitous nature of fashion. It may just be him, or the economy, but he doesn’t think so.” Italy Fashion Manufacturers Welcome “Made In Italy”

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Giles Grows, EU tackles internet sales, UK retail rises, Barneys pulls back, Donatella blogs

Giles Deacon to quadruple sales (Drapers) Giles Deacon has announced a business partnership with Castor Srl which will help him to achieve the business aspirations he first mentioned to us in our Inside the Studio video series in February. (Watch video here) EBay May Sell More Luxury Goods Under Draft EU Rules (Bloomberg) "EBay Inc.'s traders may have fewer restrictions on selling luxury goods under European Union regulators' plans to break down barriers to Internet sales." April clothing sales strongest since 2006 (Drapers) "Retail like-for-like sales rose 4.6% in April, with clothing showing the strongest growth since late 2006, according to the British Retail Consortium (BRC)." Barneys aiming to close 2 stores (Reuters) "As the impact of the global recession…

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Inside the Studio | Giles Deacon | Chapter III

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“The Surprise of Collaboration…” Not everyone thinks of fashion designers as business people, but fashion ultimately requires designers, especially independent designers like Giles Deacon, to stay in touch with the realities of managing a business every day. In the third and final chapter of Giles’ story, we learn how collaborations with major partners like New Look, as well as creatives like LOVE

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Inside the Studio | Giles Deacon | Chapter II

"A Designer Who Has Always Drawn…" Giles Deacon began drawing at the age of three, so it's not surprising that illustration forms a fundamental part of his creative process. The second chapter of Giles' story uncovers the organised randomness behind Giles' arresting design concoctions, often starting with a sketch. He explains how designs like the now iconic Pacman dress from Spring/Summer 2009 and the much talked-about Bambi dress from Spring/Summer 2008, which landed on the front cover of the New York Times, were conceived and developed. RSS and email subscribers, click here to watch the video. Inside the Studio | Giles Deacon was generously supported by Swarovski

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Giles Deacon | A Designer Who Has Always Drawn

Giles Deacon for Smythson

LONDON, United Kingdom — When Giles Deacon developed a set of chic correspondence cards, each with a signature Giles sketch, in collaboration with Smythson earlier this year, the first batch sold out in just one day — on both sides of the Atlantic. For all you hard core Giles fans, the cards appear to have been re-ordered and are now available for sale again. Even better, here at BoF we were lucky to have had a special sketch from

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Inside the Studio | Giles Deacon | Chapter I

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“Unstructured exploration…” In the years before he became an overnight household name in the United Kingdom, when Linda Evangelista walked down his runway for free, Giles Deacon spent more than 10 years exploring — not the world, but rather the people and environment in which he lived. The first chapter of Giles’ story explains how he came to be a fashion designer and launch his own label, GILES. It reveals

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Inside the Studio | Giles Deacon | Trailer

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LONDON, United Kingdom — The Business of Fashion is pleased to announce the launch of Inside the Studio, a series of in-depth interviews providing a 360 degree view of the world’s top fashion designers and their roles as both creative and business people. Supported by Swarovski and produced by and developed in association with Make Believe, the first interview features renowned fashion designer Giles Deacon who celebrated his

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Ferragamo & Australia, Giles Deacon’s menswear, Mom-and-pop retailers, Ugg sales soar

"Australia", Starring Nicole Kidman, Hugh Jackman and … Ferragamo  (WSJ) As part of Salvatore Ferragamo's "long standing brand strategy," it has made accessories for the movie Australia starring Nicole Kidman. Giles Hearts Boys, Too (Fashionista) Giles Deacon has launched a menswear range in collaboration with New Look. Retail Rx for a Hip Mom-and-Pop (NY Times) By George, a small retailer in Austin, Texas is emblematic of the challenges for mom-and-pop retailers in the current economic environment. Ugg sales soar at John Lewis (Drapers) At John Lewis, Uggs, the ubiquitous Australian boots, "saw a 300% increase in sales." Scene from Australia, photo courtesy of TV.com.

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Luxury Outlook | Faith Popcorn on the Recession Culture

LONDON, United Kingdom and NEW YORK, United States - Are London fashionistas living in a bubble? There was no sign of global economic turmoil last night as party-goers let loose after a busy day of shows during an even busier night of events. Following strong showings by Giles and Christopher Kane, there was the opening of the fabulous new Dunhill flagship (see here for our review of the sister store in Tokyo), an exhibition of stunning fashion photography by Mary McCartney, and the biggest party of London Fashion Week hosted by Giles Deacon and Swarovski (with a huge Giles cartoon ghost made completely of flowers, pictured above). The mood is certainly more sombre across the pond in New York. And,…

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NRDC spree, Giles style and Levi’s liftoff

The man who wants to fix retail (Fortune) Fortune magazine profiles NRDC's Richard Baker who is on a retail and fashion acquisition spree having bought Lord & Taylor, Fortunoff, and Peter Som and is said to have his eyes on Saks. Giles Style (Scottish Daily Record) Giles Deacon talks to a Scottish paper about the fashion designer of the 21st century -- one who has his feet on the ground and is passionate about gardening and reading. Levi's turns a corner (International Herald Tribune) Armin Broger , President of Levi Straus Europe, is successfully turning around the Levi's business by refocusing its collections and using cities like Antwerp as fashion business laboratories. Peter Som A/W 2008 photo courtesy of Coutorture.

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London Fashion Week | Giles’ disco chamber

The first clue on Wednesday night that the Giles Deacon show was about to undergo a big change was the glam photo of quintuple Grammy-winning Amy Winehouse on the All Access Pass. Continuing on this tack, his tiny, usually sparse, white showspace had been converted into a dark disco chamber, with disco balls hanging every which way, leaving showgoers (who included Lily Allen and Bee Shaffer) bathed in white polkadots. His collection was mixture of mini puffa jackets, blinged-out high heels, suede-fringed dresses and others with typically Giles intricate construction. With all this effort, Giles seemed determined to get the biggest bang for his buck. For the first time, he put on two shows to meet growing demand to take…

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Fashion Rocks: An opportunity to seize

Fashion Rocks bills itself as the most glamorous event on the planet. If there is a night on the London fashion calendar that can compare to the see-and-be-seen status of New York's Costume Institute Gala, this is it. It was originally started by the Prince's Trust, a UK-based charity which endeavours to bring new hope to the lives of underprivileged youth. Proceeds from the event are directed to this worthy cause. The first Fashion Rocks was held at Royal Albert Hall in London in 2003 and teamed famous musicians and fashion designers together, strutting their stuff (quite literally) in a series of fabulous performances, complete with pyrotechnics, choreographed dance ensembles, and of course, some no-bones-about-it fashion glamour. The event was…

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London Fashion Week: The creativity and commerce conundrum

As I looked out on the waiting crowd for Giles Deacon's show last evening, there was something special in the air. Where else could you see wunderkind Gareth Pugh nestled next to Italian eccentric Anna Piaggi and Vogue's Hamish Bowles and a raft of other notable fashion names, all crammed into a tiny space in a small schoolhouse waiting for a fashion show to start? No New York designer of similar repute would even think of forcing the fashion A-list into this cramped setting. But then again, the fashion A-list probably wouldn't even bother turning up to a show in a similarly  uncomfortable setting for a New York designer. London fashion is officially hot again.  And, this time it's not…

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