PARIS, France — There was a toughness in the air on the Paris catwalks Sunday. But it wasn't just in the black or the more grown-up styles that continued to dominate Autumn/Winter shows.
PARIS, France — As the Paris menswear shows concluded on Sunday evening with Hedi Slimane’s menswear debut for Saint Laurent, some notable figures in the crowd of menswear buyers and editors quietly grumbled that this was a lacklustre season. But as always, the enterprising Sonny Vandevelde was backstage to capture those off-the-cuff moments that can make even a ho-hum fashion week feel a bit more exciting. Standout shows
Hong Kong Luxury Sales Rebound on Confidence in Mainland (Bloomberg) “Hong Kong’s luxury sales rebounded in a sign that confidence is returning to a Chinese economy that probably picked up pace in the final three months of last year after a seven-quarter slowdown.” PPR in Talks to Sell Redcats Unit to Alpha Fund for $156 Million (Bloomberg) “PPR SA owner of the Gucci brand, said it’s in talks to sell the
Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent debut (Telegraph) “What was most suprising was that it was so unsurprising. It was exactly as expected: lots of masculine/feminine trouser suits, some beautiful wafty dresses and poet’s blouses (most of which we’ve seen before on Kate Moss and Stevie Nicks, although perhaps not always in quite such luxe fabrications) and a cool soundtrack, edited for the show by Daft Punk.
Gap’s Targeting of Broke Hipsters May Be Flawed (Bloomberg) “Gap Inc., which drew legions of young adults in the 1990s with classic khakis and swing-dancing ads, is again banking on young, hip customers to resuscitate its sales. Too bad they’re broke now.” LVMH appoints new Givenchy CEO (FT) “Givenchy, the French fashion house owned by LVMH, has announced a new chief executive officer poached from Italian arch
Why Was the Designer Raf Simons Dismissed? (NY Times) “You don’t find many galvanizing examples of talent in other creative fields — and it’s hard to imagine an executive taking time on his day off to look at someone else’s runway show. But that’s how talented Mr. Simons is.” Sex in the Saddle (IHT) “What is it about women and horses? A trend toward a coltish look — short, taut jackets, curving jodhpur pants and
Givenchy: Pure is Beautiful (IHT) “Mr. Tisci’s vision of asking the impossible from his ateliers is part of the story. But the main thread of his collection is the link to those few, rare customers who are searching for the exceptional. And that suddenly seems like 21st century haute couture.” Burberry faces shareholder revolt over ‘excessive’ executive pay (Guardian) “Burberry faces a revolt over executive pay
A Fresh Breeze of Change (IHT) “This gentle zephyr is bringing a new fashion attitude. Out goes outré, excess and over-elaborate shows. In comes the quiet, no-fuss presentation of pleasing clothes. Freshness is the best word to describe what seems of the moment. Add to that ‘decency,’ meaning that any hint of ‘vulgarity chic’ has gone — and you get the new mood.” Fashion Retailer Asos Sets Up
Why Do We Care About Luxury Brands? (Wired) “There’s now suggestive evidence that our faith in the authentic – especially when the authenticity is supported by effective marketing campaigns – is a deep seated human instinct, which emerges at an extremely early age.” Champagne corks popping again in luxury business (AFP) “Champagne corks are popping again in the luxury business as “It” bags and
Skeletons, Family and Religion (IHT) “There was little of the sharp tailoring associated with Givenchy, where Mr. Tisci has been the creative director for five years… In an interview, the designer explained his vision.” Perrone Quits as CEO of Italian Suitmaker Brioni (Bloomberg) “Perrone, the 40-year-old grandson of Brioni co-founder Gaetano Savini, was appointed sole CEO in July last year, replacing a
A New Marc Jacobs? (FT) “‘I can’t do everything, and I’m not good at everything… I feel like what I do creates some sort of direction for the company, and that’s good, and then I can leave it to other people to interpret.’” Why Givenchy is more desirable than ever (NZ Herald) “Givenchy struggled to reinvent itself for over a decade, but today – with Riccardo Tisci at the helm – the
Tisci’s Trans Europe Express (WWD) “Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci has taken the whole idea of ‘coed fashion shoot’ to another level: The designer is using a transexual among the cast for the house’s fall-winter ad campaign.” Jones Apparel to buy Stuart Weitzman (Reuters) “Jones Apparel Group Inc. said it will buy designer shoe company Stuart Weitzman Holdings for an initial cash payment of