How much deference does a newly installed designer need to pay to the heritage of a house? Today, Jessica Michault, editor-in-chief of Nowfashion.com, shares her reflections on a Paris Fashion Week that saw a number of new designer debuts at venerable French houses.
PARIS, France — There was a toughness in the air on the Paris catwalks Sunday. But it wasn't just in the black or the more grown-up styles that continued to dominate Autumn/Winter shows.
PARIS, France — As the Paris menswear shows concluded on Sunday evening with Hedi Slimane’s menswear debut for Saint Laurent, some notable figures in the crowd of menswear buyers and editors quietly grumbled that this was a lacklustre season. But as always, the enterprising Sonny Vandevelde was backstage to capture those off-the-cuff moments that can make even a ho-hum fashion week feel a bit more exciting. Standout shows
Hong Kong Luxury Sales Rebound on Confidence in Mainland (Bloomberg) “Hong Kong’s luxury sales rebounded in a sign that confidence is returning to a Chinese economy that probably picked up pace in the final three months of last year after a seven-quarter slowdown.” PPR in Talks to Sell Redcats Unit to Alpha Fund for $156 Million (Bloomberg) “PPR SA owner of the Gucci brand, said it’s in talks to sell the
Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent debut (Telegraph) “What was most suprising was that it was so unsurprising. It was exactly as expected: lots of masculine/feminine trouser suits, some beautiful wafty dresses and poet’s blouses (most of which we’ve seen before on Kate Moss and Stevie Nicks, although perhaps not always in quite such luxe fabrications) and a cool soundtrack, edited for the show by Daft Punk.
Gap’s Targeting of Broke Hipsters May Be Flawed (Bloomberg) “Gap Inc., which drew legions of young adults in the 1990s with classic khakis and swing-dancing ads, is again banking on young, hip customers to resuscitate its sales. Too bad they’re broke now.” LVMH appoints new Givenchy CEO (FT) “Givenchy, the French fashion house owned by LVMH, has announced a new chief executive officer poached from Italian arch
Why Was the Designer Raf Simons Dismissed? (NY Times) “You don’t find many galvanizing examples of talent in other creative fields — and it’s hard to imagine an executive taking time on his day off to look at someone else’s runway show. But that’s how talented Mr. Simons is.” Sex in the Saddle (IHT) “What is it about women and horses? A trend toward a coltish look — short, taut jackets, curving jodhpur pants and
Givenchy: Pure is Beautiful (IHT) “Mr. Tisci’s vision of asking the impossible from his ateliers is part of the story. But the main thread of his collection is the link to those few, rare customers who are searching for the exceptional. And that suddenly seems like 21st century haute couture.” Burberry faces shareholder revolt over ‘excessive’ executive pay (Guardian) “Burberry faces a revolt over executive pay