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4 March, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Gucci Group shake-up explained, Dior’s new chapter, Paris round up, Hermès profit jumps, Gaga to the rescue

Gucci Spring/Summer 2011 Campaign | Source: Fashion Fame

The reasons behind the major shake up at Gucci Group (CPP Luxury)
“International media as well as major luxury players have been taken by surprise this week by several major changes within PPR/Gucci Group and it seems this is just the beginning…. Francois Henri Pinault has radically changed management… responding fast to market conditions.”

Dropping Galliano lets Dior open new chapter (Reuters)
“Behind the scenes, Dior is telling industry watchers it is glad Galliano is gone, as it wanted to move away from his theatrical style and embrace a more subtle and refined elegance to better reflects post-economic crisis society. ‘This could be a driver for positive change, which is what Dior itself was looking for.’”

Balenciaga for Today (IHT)
“Mr. Ghesquière, who had gone punk and downtown last season, faced a difficult task. No longer the catwalk ingénue spicing up a house with a glorious past, he had to prove that he could move ahead within the spirit of the august founder. The designer’s process was via fabric, technique and cut.”

Hermès Annual Profit Jumps, Margins Exceed Forecast (Bloomberg)
“[Hermès] reported a surge in full-year earnings as improved confidence among wealthy customers boosted revenue. Operating profit jumped 44 percent to 668.2 million euros ($933 million)… Sales rose 25 percent to 2.4 billion euros and margins exceeded a forecast that Hermes raised last month.”

Thank goodness for Lady Gaga! (Telegraph)
Thank goodness for Lady Gaga! The bonkers blonde from New York has single-handedly rescued a week that on paper should be one of the high points of the entertainment calendar, but instead was fast becoming a car crash of disappointment… The party felt like a complete damp squib until the platinum blonde vision of Stefani Germanotta [arrived] making her catwalk debut at the Thierry Mugler show.”

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17 February, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Big changes at Gucci Group, Behind the Marc, Hermès to LVMH: Cut stake, Rent the Runway, Cast your vote for Calgary

François-Henri Pinault | Source: Coolspotters

PPR Chief to Run Gucci Himself (NY Times)
“The French luxury magnate François-Henri Pinault said… he would personally take charge of Gucci Group as he reorganizes its parent company to focus on the most profitable businesses. Robert Polet, who has headed Gucci since 2004, will be stepping down in a few weeks… Mr. Pinault also said Paul Deneve would replace Valérie Hermann as chief executive of Yves Saint Laurent.”

At Marc Jacobs, the Show Before the Show (NY Times)
“‘Sometimes, I don’t know how we got from there to here,’ Mr. Duffy said, referring to the early days of his 27-year partnership with Mr. Jacobs, when the two of them constructed sets themselves and went around ‘with a tin cup’ to friends. ‘Nobody has any idea what it takes to do all this,’ he added.”

Hermès Wants LVMH to Cut Stake to Free Up Shares in the Market (Bloomberg)
“Hermès wants LVMH to reduce its stake by more than half to free up shares on the open market… With the family controlling more than 70 percent of Hermès stock, ‘it’s not normal’ that LVMH Chief Executive Officer Bernard Arnault should hold 20.2 percent of the shares, Bertrand Puech said in an interview in Paris yesterday. ‘We want him to reduce his stake to less than 10 percent.’”

Cinderella Dreams, Shoestring Budget? No Problem (WSJ)
“If consumers can rent a movie by mail, or wheels on a whim, why not a couture gown should the occasion strike? That’s the concept behind Rent the Runway, a website launched in November 2009 that promises to give ‘every woman the opportunity to be Cinderella for the night’.”

Cast Your Vote for Calgary (NY Times)
“Imran Amed, the founder and editor of the popular Web site The Business of Fashion, has teamed with the renowned British leather craftsman Bill Amberg to create a new line of unisex totes designed with the globetrotting fashion follower in mind.”

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13 January, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Zara chief bows out, Aspirationals still key, PPR E-commerce push, Fast Retailing slows, Lucky Holley

Amancio Ortega | Source: Elmundo

End of the line for Zara tsar (Independent)
“Amancio Ortega, the wealthiest man in Spain and perhaps one of the world’s most reclusive moguls, has tiptoed into the spotlight this week by announcing his imminent retirement from the fast-fashion giant Inditex… which he founded with a single store in La Coruna 35 years ago.”

Who’s Buying All That Luxury? Not the Rich (WSJ)
“Luxury is soaring again… The reason for the boom, we’re told, is that the rich are on a spending binge again after the brief unpleasantness of the recession. That’s true to a point. But a new study finds that the wealthy no longer dominate luxury spending like they did before the recession.”

Fashion’s E-Commerce Push (Fashion United)
“French luxury goods group PPR’s E-Commerce Development Unit aims to develop synergies across brands, coordinate e-commerce initiatives and share digital expertise.’”

Fast Retailing Profit Slides 35% (Bloomberg)
“Fast Retailing Co., Asia’s largest clothing chain, reported a 35 percent decline in first-quarter profit after sales fell at its Uniqlo stores in Japan. Net income for the three months ended November dropped to 22.7 billion yen as revenue fell 4.7 percent.”

Lucky’s Brandon Holley: Dressing for a Revolution (NY Times)
“The challenge now… is figuring out how to rejuvenate Lucky without losing what makes it special: ‘I’m trying to figure out what’s baby and what’s bath water.’… Ms. Holley wants to transform Luckymag.com into a ‘social shopping experience,’ akin to eBay and etsy.com.”

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20 May, 2010 | by BoF Team

The Rise of Smart Fashion

Projects by the Textile Futures Research Group | Source- tfrg.org.uk

Projects by the Textile Futures Research Group | Source- tfrg.org.uk

NEW YORK, United States — At the Met Ball held earlier this month in New York, singer and songwriter Katy Perry walked the red carpet in a gown made from silk chiffon and over 3000 glowing LEDs that changed colour from blue to pink to yellow to green. Created by London-based firm CuteCircuit, Perry’s gown assured her a lot of publicity. But the coming integration of fashion and technology is about more than making a visual statement.

What if a jacket could heat or cool according to the current weather, or a cocktail dress could help monitor and control your well being? Science fiction-sounding innovations like these are the potential output of the small, but growing field of “smart fashion” that’s being pioneered at university labs and start-ups across the world.

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12 February, 2010 | by Imran Amed, Editor

Bidding Farewell to Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen Store on 14th Street in New York | Source: Stylesightings

Alexander McQueen Store on 14th Street in New York | Source: Stylesightings

LONDON, United Kingdom — One of the first fashion shows I ever attended was the Alexander McQueen show for Spring/Summer 2007, staged in the round at the Cirque D’Hiver in Paris. Jonathan Akeroyd, the affable CEO of McQueen, was kind enough to grant my cheeky request for an invitation, and he even let me bring along my college roommate, who was studying outside Paris at the time.

We were seated in the very last row way up in the rafters of the massive round theatre, but still we were mesmerised by McQueen’s collection and his spectacular presentation. Afterwards, we stepped out into the pouring rain late on a Friday night during Paris Fashion Week with a sense of awe and wonderment that lingered for the rest of the evening.

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