Ending note, J Brand eyes IPO, China slowdown, Ralph signs on for 5 more years, Cost of fast fashion

Elie Saab, Jean Paul Gaultier and Valentino Couture 2012 | Source: Style.com

Ending on a Grace Note (IHT) “For all the the flesh still flashed on the red carpets, there is a change of mood on the runways. Perhaps the change can best be seen in the long-sleeved dresses with hemlines at the shoe-level that have taken over for the once-prevalent winter bare-the-body look.” J Brand hires bank to explore sale, IPO (Reuters) “Women’s apparel maker J Brand has hired Morgan Stanley to help

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Are Fashion Brands Underestimating the Importance of China E-Commerce?

Gap Store on Tmall | Source: Tmall

BEIJING, China — With its burgeoning middle class and status-conscious consumer culture, China remains the primary engine driving luxury market growth, even in a rapidly weakening global economy. But recent reports from China’s National Bureau of Statistics show that even China’s economy is experiencing what one Chinese cabinet member called a “sharp slowdown.” For fashion brands operating in China, this presents a distinct

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Gucci’s payoff, Tales of Hermès, Hong Kong rents spike, Runway tweens, Theyskens’ singular voice

Gucci Spring/Summer 2012 campaign | Source: Gucci

Gucci wins $4.66 million, ban on Guess knock-offs (Reuters) “A U.S. judge said Gucci may recover just $4.66 million in its lawsuit accusing apparel retailer Guess Inc of copying its trademarked designs, a small fraction of the more than $120 million sought by the Italian luxury goods company.” Hermès tells a playful tale of leather (IHT) “Every invention by Hermès, the French leather goods company, seems to have a

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Fashion partnership, Shoedazzle pivots, Curation superheroes, Extreme e-commerce, Li Bingbing

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim by Gregory Harris | Source: Interview

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (Interview) “When Humberto Leon first met his future close friend and business partner Carol Lim 19 years ago at the University of California, Berkeley, Lim was in her pajamas. ‘I met her at a friend’s house and said, ‘Let’s go out!’ So Carol just put on heels with her pajamas and we had a really fun night,” Leon recalls. “That’s how it all started.”

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Bonobos raises $16m, Gilt Groupe gabs, PPR downgrade, Fashion Television folds, Moscow men

Andy Dunn | Source: NY Times

Stores Go Online to Find a Perfect Fit (NY Times) “When Andy Dunn helped start Bonobos five years ago, he wanted to shake up the retail industry with a men’s wear brand exclusively sold online. Now Mr. Dunn, 33, is embracing the brick-and-mortar model, striking a partnership with Nordstrom. It is a symbiotic deal. Bonobos will get $16.4 million in cash and more than 100 stores to sell its clothes, while Nordstrom will get

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Reorganising for growth, Cucinelli IPO, Digital retail tools, Reimanns unmasked, Pinvolve

Givenchy store Paris | Source: Paris.com

Luxury Goods Oust Executives With Global Economy in Flux (Business Week) “Luxury-goods makers are spring cleaning their boardrooms and ateliers. At least 14 new presidents, chief executive officers, chief financial officers and creative directors started at European companies, including Mulberry Group Plc and PPR SA in the first quarter alone.” Cashmere house Cucinelli IPO approved by Milan bourse (Reuters)

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Gucci vs. Guess, H&M hiccup, Too fashion forward, Facebook clears IPO hurdle, Altuzarra’s passion

Guess store Shanghai | Source: Fabeau

Gucci Accuses Guess of Massive Design ‘Knock Off’ Scheme (Bloomberg) “Gucci, a unit of Paris-based, sued in 2009 claiming that Los Angeles-based Guess was selling items in stores and online with logos that are ‘studied imitations of the Gucci trademarks.’ The trademarks include a green and red stripe design, a square G, the designer’s name in flowing script and a diamond pattern with repeating interlocking G’s,

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Second lines come first, Hermès loses fight, Charlier’s back, DiorMag launch, Rewriting Gucci

See by Chloe Autumn/Winter 2012 | Source: IHT

In France, Second Lines Finally Can Come First (IHT) “For French brands, there is always a sneaking feeling that a second line is second best. The Milan designers rejoice that Just Cavalli or Emporio Armani are on the runway… But French ‘subsidiaries’ are either non-existent, hidden or given slightly pejorative names, like ‘diffusion’ line.” France’s Hermès loses China trademark fight

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Prada’s glorious graphics, Gap earnings plummet, Gucci skins, S-commerce now, Paul Smith

Prada, Fendi, Max Mara Autum/Winter 2012 | Source: Showmoda

At Prada: Glorious Graphics (NY Times) “Miuccia Prada went back to her basics: geometric print, graphic, straight line cutting and embellishment — but the result was like seeing reruns of early ideas digitally enhanced to a Blade Runner-style futurism.” Bleak Christmas for Gap as earnings drop 40% (FT) “Gap’s efforts to revive its fortunes suffered another setback in the crucial Christmas quarter when the clothes

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Stella’s drive, Cucinelli upbeat ahead of IPO, Gucci’s depth, Menswear charms, Shoe sculptor

Stella McCartney by Damon Winter | Source: New York Times

What Drives Stella McCartney (NYT) “She may be one of the most interesting designers in the world today, but when she started out, the fashion world didn’t have many nice things to say about Stella McCartney… Where she has succeeded since then is in designing for exactly who she is. Now 40 years old, she has developed a witty, down-to-earth approach to dressing women like her.” Cucinelli Upbeat Ahead of IPO (WWD)

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Rodarte’s beautiful journey, Kors continues ascent, Gucci vs Guess, Suzy speaks, Streetstyle girls

Rodarte Autumn/Winter 2012 | Source: Showmoda

Youth Takes Many Paths (NY Times) “Laura and Kate Mulleavy have had a pretty weird journey since they left their home in Pasadena, Calif., to bring their Rodarte label to New York. It has been a kind of road trip, a theme they have actually sounded in a few collections And, because they haven’t really told us where they are going (maybe they don’t even know), things have a way of getting out of control.” Luxury demand

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Gucci groove, Alaia’s excellence, Consumption equality, Vuitton vs. Warner Bros, 2011 in review

Azzedine Alaïa | Source: NY Times

How Gucci Got Its Groove Back (Departures) “Today she’s happy being the woman behind the brand, unlike Ford, who was ultimately bigger than Gucci, which is why, in part, he’s no longer there. (Ford declined to comment for this article.) ‘After almost ten years, it’s difficult to divide myself from Gucci,’ she says. ‘I love this company, and I have such respect for its history.’” Azzedine Alaïa, a

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Michael Kors IPO, Gucci sales hold firm, Tailoring to Asia, Frisoni thrives at Vivier, All that glitters

Michael Kors by Mikael Jansson | Source: Interview

Michael Kors Seeks to Raise $792.3 Million in U.S. IPO (Bloomberg) “Michael Kors Holdings Ltd., the luxury-clothing company, is seeking to raise as much as $792.3 million in a U.S. initial public offering as the company’s founder and the biggest investor trim their stakes… Michael Kors, the designer who founded the company in 1981, is planning to cut his stake as retailers of luxury goods outperform mid-priced

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