Dior sans couturier, Rio 2012 and fashion, Burberry boost, Twilight zone, Rising star Umit Benan

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2010 | Source: Tendances

How long can Dior thrive without a couturier? (France 24) “Ten months after John Galliano was sacked over a racist outburst, Dior has yet to name a new chief designer — but sales are booming. Which begs the question: how long can the French fashion house thrive without a couturier at the helm?” Rio 2012: what can the fashion industry do to become more sustainable? (Guardian) “This new ‘fast

…Continue Reading

Rethinking couture, The battle for Hermès, Obama debate continues, Jimmy Choo profits triple, Rankin’s army

L-R: Valentino, Gaultier, Chanel, Saab, Dior, Armani, Givenchy | Source: FT

All about the Atelier (FT) “It’s possible we’re thinking about this all wrong – this being the now-shrunk-to-three-days-with-only-six-full-fledged-couture-brands couture shows. It’s possible we’re asking the wrong questions. It’s possible that, instead of perennially rending our garments and plunging into the long tunnel of debate over whether couture is relevant in a not-entirely-post-recession 21st century, we should

…Continue Reading

Contentious coveted domains, Kisses for Couture, Prada IPO in HK, Emmanuelle Alt’s Vogue Paris, Digital King

Coveted vs. Coveted | Source: Signature9

Eminent Domain Name: What To Do When Your Brand Is Coveted (Signature9) “Late last week, Erin Kleinberg, Stephanie Mark and Jake Rosenberg launched a new fashion blog. The design was solid, the content striking and the concept – a peek inside the closets of fashion editors and insiders – met with enthusiasm. The name, however, was met with raised eyebrows.” Onstage or Backstage, a Kiss for Paris (NY Times) “The

…Continue Reading

Couture time, Asia’s thirst for luxury, Coach cost pressure, Pakistani fashion, Tod’s colossal Colosseum project

Christian Dior Couture 2011 | Source: Style.com

And Now Couture (On the Runway) “Not even 24 hours after the Paris men’s shows had ended they were a dim memory. The women had moved in for the spring haute couture shows, like a temperance league.” Asian shoppers thirst for luxury (BBC) “So many times in the past few decades, the insatiable appetite of the Americans [helped the world out of recession]… But if China’s emerging class of consumers put

…Continue Reading

The crowdsourcing debate, Suits in Paris, Couture alive and well, Prada to decide on IPO, Berlin Fashion Week wrap-up

(L-R) Comme des Garçons, Lanvin, and Dries Van Noten | Source: Style.com

Fashion Crowdsourcing Panel at DLD (DLD Conference) “The Fashion Panel was all about the use of crowdsourcing for fashion brands. Vanessa Friedman moderated the talk with Natalie Massenet from the online luxury fashion retailer Net-A-Porter, who shortly before won the Aenne Burda Award, the Creative Adviser of H&M, Margareta van den Bosch and Scott Galloway, Professor of Marketing at NYU. The main discussion focussed on

…Continue Reading

Couture’s reality check, Shoppers pull back, Primark scores, Tesco’s F&F coming soon, Renzo Rosso hits India

"Under the sign of the lion" Chanel's Couture Show Fall 2010 | Source:

Full Spectrum, Less Spectacle (NY Times) “Don’t be fooled by the giant lion at Chanel… Most of the remaining half-dozen or so houses that show haute couture scaled down their presentations… a nip here, a tuck there and a P.R. man explaining in a hushed tone that the designer wanted to ‘return to couture’s roots.’” Luxury shoppers pull back in June (Bloomberg) “MasterCard Advisor’s

…Continue Reading

Couture comeback, Beauty moves, Paid bloggers less trusted, Vogue launches iPad app, Hijabista fashion

Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2010 | Source: Ledefile

Bonjour Couture (Vogue.com) “Just as Haute Couture Fashion Week begins the high fashion market has posted some very positive sales news. Top Parisian labels, including Chanel, Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier, have revealed a marked increase in both sales and demand.” Cosmetics from Burberry and Topshop (FT) “Fashion brands are often able to make that transition from clothes to fragrance, but with make-up it is harder.

…Continue Reading

Yohji’s Dear Bomb, Ferragamo’s good year, Office for sale, Couture’s RTW influences, Kirkwood for Pilotto

The Yohji Yamamoto story (Telegraph) “Yohji Yamamoto, the charismatic and mysterious Japanese designer, is allowing the first-ever published biography about his life to be published. The book, entitled (enigmatically, of course) ‘My Dear Bomb’, will be released worldwide in October.” Ferragamo Sees ‘Very Good’ 2010 (Bloomberg) “Salvatore Ferragamo, the Italian shoemaker, expects ‘a very good’ 2010 as

…Continue Reading

Rethinking Paris couture, Halston Heritage, Kate Moss to join Green and Cowell, Stylish vegan shoes

Christian Lacroix Couture A/W 09, courtesy of Coutorture

Rethinking the rules at Paris couture shows (FT) “Should couture go big or small? Subtle or over-the-top? These days, this particular niche of the fashion industry seems as volatile in its identity as the price of oil. When the rest of the world is busy doubting the rationale for your existence, a show is effectively a public argument for your worth. But how to make the case most effectively?” Halston targets growth

…Continue Reading

Didier Grumbach | Fashion’s creative pragmatist

Dior Haute Couture by John Galliano, Spring/Summer 2007

PARIS, France — In a fascinating interview with The Taipei Times, Didier Grumbach, President of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt à Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode (sometimes known as the Chambre Syndicale), provides his point of view on the role of haute couture in the fashion business today, encourages young designers to manufacture in China, and welcomes luxury conglomerates like LVMH and PPR as a

…Continue Reading

New York Fashion Week | Celebrity is the new haute couture

Yesterday at Phillip Lim I heard a videographer complaining "There's no one here, and whenever someone does show up, they bring them out at the last minute so I can't shoot them." Many fashion brands may have been built on the dreams created by out-of-this world haute couture collections, but today, for many brands, this desire is built on the image of celebrity, which can arguably reach more people than the Haute Couture shows ever will. Celebrity is the new Haute Couture. Or, better said, celebrity now plays the dream-weaving and marketing role that Haute Couture has played in the past. However, in a week when the front rows were supposed to be dripping with celebrities, the paparazzi at New…

…Continue Reading

Valentino: Fashioning change from private equity

This week's Economist ominously warns of "The Trouble with Private Equity" at a time when many in the fashion world are wondering how the infusion of private capital will impact their industry. In the last month alone, La Perla, Samsonite and Valentino have all been snapped up by private equity funds. Just today, The Sunday Times broke the news that Prada has also been in talks with private investors. (Not surprisingly, Prada has denied these reports, but it is not hard to see why this would be a natural option for Patrizio Bertelli, especially given several failed attempts at taking Prada public.) The recent investment exuberance around fashion brands is a dramatic departure from the stance that many professional investors…

…Continue Reading

Haute Couture: A premature death?

Merrill Lynch and Cap Gemini issued the 2007 edition of their annual World Wealth Report last week and the Financial Times and other media took notice, remarking on the dramatic growth of high-net worth individuals and the risky investment strategies that have helped make the world's rich even richer (subscription required). And then, today's WWD reported on the dramatic rise in Haute Couture sales experienced by houses from Dior to Chanel to Givenchy. Was Haute Couture's death knell premature? Conventional wisdom says that the Haute Couture lines of famous Parisian fashion houses are more like publicity machines and creative R&D playgrounds. For the price of  a collection of  hand-made, intricately designed dresses, the maisons of Paris get millions of dollars…

…Continue Reading